I came to the realization that I’ve never worn out a Norelco or Remington razor yet I’ve owned a number of them over the years. But I have worn out a number of shaver batteries. My first Norelco razor was a plug-in only model. I was lured into buying a battery-powered model that would let me shave without being tethered to the wall outlet. Over the course of a year or so, I noticed that the charge on the battery wasn’t lasting very long and so this eventually became no different than the model that had to be connected to the AC outlet all the time. I bought a replacement when I was planning a camping trip and would not have dependable access to an AC outlet. Over the course of a few years, this model did the same thing, i.e., its batteries wore out and it also had to be plugged in all the time.
At the time, I priced a service that would replace the batteries and figured out, like many others, I’m sure, that it wasn’t much more expensive to buy a new razor than to repair an old one. So I opted to get a Remington R9190 model that I could clean by running it under the water tap. What would they think of next? It had amazing capacity, providing 60 minutes of shaving on a single charge. However, after about 18 months, it too, needed to be left plugged in all the time.
I figured that these razors only needed new batteries, but knew that it would require getting the right kind of batteries, and then having to do some unsoldering and re-soldering. I found a website that sold shaver batteries and would provide the correct ones for the razors based on their model numbers. In this case, the razor model numbers I wanted to fix were a Norelco 6843XL and a Remington R9190. I found the battery packs at Electricshaver.com. In the case of the 6843XL, I received a single AA 600 mah NiCad battery with solder tabs at a cost of $9.95. The R9190 battery pack contained a pair of AA NiCads with solder tabs that were joined together at one end. I had to cut these apart to actually install them so it probably would have been better if they just provided two AA solder tab batteries. That battery pack cost $14.95. I realized afterwards that I could probably just have just ordered 3 regular solder tab AA NiCad batteries from any of a number of Internet sources for around $3.00 each and saved about $15. Live and learn.
The Norelco 6843XL came apart quite easily. I just removed two screws (although I did need to use a torx driver) and then popped its snap joints apart. The battery tabs of the single AA battery were soldered through the PC board, but with a solder sucker and some solder wick, they were easily removed and the battery was replaced.
The R9190 wasn’t as easy to disassemble. There were 4 exposed phillips head screws which I removed, but the casing still would not come apart. After a lot of time fiddling, I found that there were two more hidden screws under the rubber backing and once these were removed, everything came apart. It was first necessary to pry up the corners of the rubber backing which was glued down on the back of the shaver (as shown in the photo) to expose the hidden screws. I came close to giving up on it. It’s the reason you may have found this posting, because searching for ‘Remington R9100 R9190 R9200 shaver battery replacement’ came up with nothing on the Internet. So I figure that within a few weeks of posting this, it will start to get hits because if I’m having this problem, chances are pretty good that others are as well.
The main reason I’m posting this is because I know how much I appreciate it when I find some obscure piece of information on the Internet that allows me to fix something that I’d otherwise have to throw away. I’m disappointed that Norelco and Remington continue to build products whose batteries cannot be easily serviced. I’ve read recently that many cellphones get replaced when their batteries goes bad after around 18 months of use. I find that to be extremely wasteful, and in the case of most cellphones, completely unnecessary because the batteries are generally easily replaced (unless you have an iPhone) . Of course, the battery packs sometimes have excessive markups on them when purchased from the manufacturer so that probably contributes to it as well.
I think that building batteries into a product in such a way that they cannot be replaced by an end user is unacceptable. Rechargeable batteries are only good for around 500 charge cycles and then they must be replaced. I wouldn’t want to be associated with a product where the batteries are so difficult to replace that the battery life determines the useful life of the product.
The R9190 has two AA NiCad batteries soldered together with some wiring. They are relatively easy to replace once you figure out how to get the case apart.
Both shavers are working great now and I can again enjoy the experience of untethered shaving.
UPDATE 2009-01-25
I continue to get a lot of hits on this web page so I can only imagine that many people have encountered the same problem, i.e., a razor that is still working, but with batteries that have gone flat. A very nice gentleman sent me the images below complete with annotations to show how he repaired his Remington Model 8100 razor. He replaced the solder tail AA batteries with holders for AAA batteries. Even though AAA batteries are much smaller, and usually have half the capacity of AA batteries, he found some that had nearly equal capacity to the AA batteries he replaced. The best part of his repair is that the next time they go flat, it will be very easy to replace them because it will require no soldering.
UPDATE 2012-02-26: I continue to have readers send me tips and photos on razors that are a bit different than the ones shown above. In this case John H. was kind enough to put together an 8-step sequence on how to get to the batteries on the Remington M280 M290 style razors:
Excellent, Lee, Thank you.
FYI, I used this info to repair my Remington Titanium MS3 3700 Washable. The NiCad batteries died. (one died, but it was unusable with just one battery in service.) Taking apart the case involved 7 attachments. The small phillips screw near the charger was the easy one. 2 other screws also retained that half of the clamshell (the “back” of the handle.) These 2 Phillips screws are seen under the foil. You don’t need to remove the screws that hold down the “front” (meaning the side where the switches are) nor do you need to remove the screws which hold the cutter actuators. The remaining 4 connectors are found on each side of the razor handle. By removing (peeling away from the handle) the rubber side grips, you will see a square stainless steel clip that secures one clamshell side to the other. Perhaps they will come off the razor when you peel back the rubber grips.
See other comments regarding the use of batteries with tabs or soldering or taping the new batteries in place.
A word of caution regarding reassembly. It can be tricky to get all the tabs in place after the replacement batteries are installed. You may want to have a 3rd hand available, for example to push the foil-releasing-cam’s button(s) into their slot as the “back” of the clamshell is eased into place. Likewise, be careful about how the metal tines on the “tail” of the razor are intercepting the pins by which the charger connects. The tines stand up like fingers from the circuit board. However, the prongs that carry the power from the charger have a narrow zone and a wide zone, so you may need to close the 2 halves to within maybe 4 millimeters of each other, then reach in to shift the tines up/down “headward or tailward” so they intercept the narrow zone of the prongs. You may need to do this from both the left and the right sides.
Happy shaving–cordlessly.
FYI, I found 1000 mAh NiCad batteries on eBay, the seller is Sunn Battery Co, in Florida. $1.30 each at this time, with reasonable shipping.
I am trying to find the hidden screw on my R650. In you article, you implied that it is similar to the screw location in the Remington 8100.It The picture of the8100 does not look like the R650. Any suggestions as to where the hidden screw may be? Would Remington send me a diagram?
Thanks
Hi Todd, It was one of the commenters of the article that implied that the R650s came apart just like the 8100. However, after looking at images of the R650s on the internet, I can see that they are not the same as the 8100. It’s possible that Remington updated the razor but recycled the model number. The R8100 has a slide switch that exposed a hidden screw. It appears that the R650s has a rubber cover over the on/off switch. I also noticed that there is a model R650 without the ‘s’, and it looks like a completely different razor. In the case of my R9100 series, it was necessary to pry up the rubber to expose the hidden screws. Perhaps they used a similar technique on the R650. It’s unlikely that Remington would be of help, because they would just want you to purchase another razor. If you find them, please let us know (or, even better, send a picture), because I’m sure it would help someone else in the future.
Great directions, thanks for posting. My R-9100 had 2 Sanyo 600 mAh AA Ni-Cd batteries. Make sure you open the back of yours and confirm if you have Ni-Cd. I bought 2 with solder tails on eBay for $7 shipped, and they are 1000 mAh, so I should be able to go much longer without recharging. Took the 2 screws out, and you can pop the whole grey trimmer piece off with a small screwdriver to be able to totally separate the 2 halves. Tear the foam off the old batteries and separate the temperature sensor with a small screwdriver. Solder the new ones on, hook everything back together, and glue the foam and temp sensor back in place. Maybe 10 minutes max.