Replacing Remington and Norelco Shaver BatteriesPosted on April 6th, 2008 99 comments
I came to the realization that I’ve never worn out a Norelco or Remington razor yet I’ve owned a number of them over the years. But I have worn out a number of shaver batteries. My first Norelco razor was a plug-in only model. I was lured into buying a battery-powered model that would let me shave without being tethered to the wall outlet. Over the course of a year or so, I noticed that the charge on the battery wasn’t lasting very long and so this eventually became no different than the model that had to be connected to the AC outlet all the time. I bought a replacement when I was planning a camping trip and would not have dependable access to an AC outlet. Over the course of a few years, this model did the same thing, i.e., its batteries wore out and it also had to be plugged in all the time.
At the time, I priced a service that would replace the batteries and figured out, like many others, I’m sure, that it wasn’t much more expensive to buy a new razor than to repair an old one. So I opted to get a Remington R9190 model that I could clean by running it under the water tap. What would they think of next? It had amazing capacity, providing 60 minutes of shaving on a single charge. However, after about 18 months, it too, needed to be left plugged in all the time.
I figured that these razors only needed new batteries, but knew that it would require getting the right kind of batteries, and then having to do some unsoldering and re-soldering. I found a website that sold shaver batteries and would provide the correct ones for the razors based on their model numbers. In this case, the razor model numbers I wanted to fix were a Norelco 6843XL and a Remington R9190. I found the battery packs at Electricshaver.com. In the case of the 6843XL, I received a single AA 600 mah NiCad battery with solder tabs at a cost of $9.95. The R9190 battery pack contained a pair of AA NiCads with solder tabs that were joined together at one end. I had to cut these apart to actually install them so it probably would have been better if they just provided two AA solder tab batteries. That battery pack cost $14.95. I realized afterwards that I could probably just have just ordered 3 regular solder tab AA NiCad batteries from any of a number of Internet sources for around $3.00 each and saved about $15. Live and learn.
The Norelco 6843XL came apart quite easily. I just removed two screws (although I did need to use a torx driver) and then popped its snap joints apart. The battery tabs of the single AA battery were soldered through the PC board, but with a solder sucker and some solder wick, they were easily removed and the battery was replaced.
The R9190 wasn’t as easy to disassemble. There were 4 exposed phillips head screws which I removed, but the casing still would not come apart. After a lot of time fiddling, I found that there were two more hidden screws under the rubber backing and once these were removed, everything came apart. It was first necessary to pry up the corners of the rubber backing which was glued down on the back of the shaver (as shown in the photo) to expose the hidden screws. I came close to giving up on it. It’s the reason you may have found this posting, because searching for ‘Remington R9100 R9190 R9200 shaver battery replacement’ came up with nothing on the Internet. So I figure that within a few weeks of posting this, it will start to get hits because if I’m having this problem, chances are pretty good that others are as well.The R9190 had two hidden screws keeping it together. After prying up the rubber as shown in the photo, the screws were exposed.
The main reason I’m posting this is because I know how much I appreciate it when I find some obscure piece of information on the Internet that allows me to fix something that I’d otherwise have to throw away. I’m disappointed that Norelco and Remington continue to build products whose batteries cannot be easily serviced. I’ve read recently that many cellphones get replaced when their batteries goes bad after around 18 months of use. I find that to be extremely wasteful, and in the case of most cellphones, completely unnecessary because the batteries are generally easily replaced (unless you have an iPhone) . Of course, the battery packs sometimes have excessive markups on them when purchased from the manufacturer so that probably contributes to it as well.
I think that building batteries into a product in such a way that they cannot be replaced by an end user is unacceptable. Rechargeable batteries are only good for around 500 charge cycles and then they must be replaced. I wouldn’t want to be associated with a product where the batteries are so difficult to replace that the battery life determines the useful life of the product.
Both shavers are working great now and I can again enjoy the experience of untethered shaving.
I continue to get a lot of hits on this web page so I can only imagine that many people have encountered the same problem, i.e., a razor that is still working, but with batteries that have gone flat. A very nice gentleman sent me the images below complete with annotations to show how he repaired his Remington Model 8100 razor. He replaced the solder tail AA batteries with holders for AAA batteries. Even though AAA batteries are much smaller, and usually have half the capacity of AA batteries, he found some that had nearly equal capacity to the AA batteries he replaced. The best part of his repair is that the next time they go flat, it will be very easy to replace them because it will require no soldering.
UPDATE 2012-02-26: I continue to have readers send me tips and photos on razors that are a bit different than the ones shown above. In this case John H. was kind enough to put together an 8-step sequence on how to get to the batteries on the Remington M280 M290 style razors:
99 responses to “Replacing Remington and Norelco Shaver Batteries”
Anonymous June 13th, 2008 at 21:21
cool. good job. I replaced a battery in my norelco as well.
Anonymous July 25th, 2008 at 14:27
Lucky I found this, was ready to toss the thing. I agree mfg’s should make things more user friendly but then this is a throw away society now and quality is not in the chinese vocabulary.
Anonymous October 9th, 2008 at 21:23
I own a battery shop and building/rebuilding packs for rechargeable products is part of our business. When I come across something like the Remington R9190 (hidden screws), I search online and hope for just this type of information. Nicely done, and greatly appreciated.
I came across your site when considering what to do about my Norelco 7180XL razor, which no longer held a charge. It was a surprise to find the battery soldered in place; I had expected it to be a mechanical connector, like a phone. I fully agree with you that it’s unacceptable to make it so difficult to replace a part which has a limited life and can be expected to wear out before the appliance as a whole.
I also appreciated your information, which was instrumental in my decision to go ahead and try the procedure myself on my 7180XL. The device is different in detail, but the process in similar in general terms, and so in the spirit of sharing the knowledge, here was my experience.
I ordered the battery part (#13810584) from electricshaverstore.com. I found they were reasonably priced (including shipping, which is so often a rip-off when shopping online) and prompt to fulfil.
My razor may have been a little different to open than yours. For this model, it’s fairly easy to dismantle, but you do need a Torx screwdriver. To open the outer case, remove 2 screws at the back, and two under the flip lid with the razor heads. Remove the top, back and side panels, but the front panel remains attached after this. Then gently slide a small flat-blade screwdriver underneath the 4 clear plastic tabs that attach the front panel, raising them up above the retaining edge. You may have to wiggle one side up and keep it there while you work on another tab. When it is free, you have the internal, water tight core of the device left. Remove the remaining screws and lift up the lid, exposing the guts. Gently pull back the motor at one end and the power connector at the other for access to the circuit board.
This is probably a good time to check the form factor of the replacement battery and its polarity in its mount (+ upwards in my case). The battery is mounted in a black cradle, but this doesn’t retain it; it is kept in place simply by the two tabs that go through the circuit board, are bent back flush with the board and are soldered in place on the reverse.
To remove the old battery, you have to:
a) remove all excess solder from the battery solder pads, using an appropriate soldering iron, desoldering braid and care.
b) using a jeweller’s screwdriver or similar, and continuing to melt remaining solder, raise the bent-back tabs up perpendicular to the board (they project about 2mm)
c) pull each end through the hole, while applying more heat to melt any obstructing solder.
Yay! It’s out. Reinsertion should be easier:
a) Clean any remaining solder from the holes.
b) place the battery, paying attention to polarity, pushing the tabs through the holes
c) (bend back the tabs as they were before — I didn’t bother; I figured friction and a little solder would keep it in place and make it easier to remove next time)
d) solder in place
At this point, I tested operation (Yes!) before I put it all back together again. Be careful with the Torx screws and don’t overtighten.
obi_donkenobi January 1st, 2009 at 20:18
Yeah, I’ve got a Remington M2822 cordless shaver whose two AA Ni-Cad batteries died, too. I was able to just pull out the rubber grip segment, and then just snap off the case (though a couple of spring clamps went flying, but that I was miraculously able to recover by sheer luck). I tried to unsolder the battieres, but I couldn’t do it for some reason, and I didn’t want to get the battieres too hot and explode, either. So, I took my Dremel to the contacts and broke ‘em that way. I still have to run to Radio Shack to buy a pair of AA Ni-Cads. Hopefully, I’ll be able to solder some contacts onto them, and then make the final connections inside the shaver. Can anyone comment on soldering or de-soldering battery contacts – what’s the risk of exploding them?
Lee Devlin January 1st, 2009 at 20:50
Soldering components on to large metal objects is very difficult. That’s why you probably should try to find some NiCads with solder tails on them. The solder tails are spot welded on to the end caps. Spot welding uses high current to focus energy to just the parts being joined get the metals to fuse to each other. You really can’t do it without specialized equipment. With soldering, you need to get both parts up to the melting temperature of the solder. This doesn’t work so well when one of the parts has a high thermal mass that tries to pull the heat away from the area you’re trying to solder.
The battery’s case will try to draw heat away as you apply it and so you’ll find the whole battery getting hot. You don’t want to take that thing up to 700 F, which is the melting temperature of solder.
In one instance, someone who responded to this posting put in a AAA battery holder in place of the AA battery. Although an AAA NiMH battery only has about half the capacity of the AA, it makes things a lot easier in a few years when you need to replace the batteries again.
Barry Kurth April 1st, 2009 at 07:43
If the shaver comes with NiCad batteries, the charger will be designed to charge NiCads, not NiMH, which have a somewhat different charging methodology. So replacing the original NiCad with NiMH may not work too well.
Roger April 2nd, 2009 at 07:44
I have the Remington R9190, and was happy to find you blog with the information on how to change out the batteries. I have a lot of soldering experience, and am very comfortable soldering these batteries to the wires. Thank you for the excellent photos, and information that allowed me to take apart and fix my razor.
jim hall April 11th, 2009 at 08:18
I have a Remington MS3-2000. Great shaver, bad batteries. Any suggestions on how to take apart and replace batteries.
Thank you so much!
It’s criminal that they can be made this way. I gave a shaver to my father in law. The hassle over the batteries dying has left a bad taste in my mouth. I thought Remington was better than this.
David May 25th, 2009 at 16:22
Great article. I think this solved my problem
Jason May 28th, 2009 at 10:33
Does anyone know what type of batteries are in the Remington MS3-1700? They’re wrapped in a green sheath like the Norelco pictured above and all they have printed on them is HS AAS1400U 0336 CHINA. I’m assuming they’re NiCd’s but am unsure of the voltage and amperage. Does this matter? Thanks!
Michael July 26th, 2009 at 16:50
The information above regarding the batteries in the Remington R-9190 is incorrect. Based on it, last week I ordered two 1100 mAh NiCd batteries for my Remington R-9190. I dismantled my shaver on the weekend to find the batteries inside are 1650 mAh NiMH. Now I have had to order two replacement NiMH batteries with tabs on them, but now they’ll be 2700 mAh. On the up side it should make for plenty of cordless shaving between charges.
I just took apart my MS3-4700 and it is very much the same design as your MS3-2000, except that mine has a digital display at the bottom. I have never seen a shaver come apart like this one… Take the screw out that is located near the bottom, narrow end, of the shaver on the back side. Remove the microscreen and take out the 4 little screws that are in the corners. The top assembly will now pull away. Here is the crazy part! The rubber sides are only taped on. Peel them back and it will reviel 2 square clips on each side. Simply pop those off and the shaver comes right apart. If you want to look for replacement batteries before you commit to replacing them, there are two AA batteries, part number HS AAS1400 0423 CHINA.
Hope this helps.
i have a norelco quadra.
the batteries are enclosed in a plastic cage which does not seem to want to come out to expose the batteries.
Chuck U. Farley August 22nd, 2009 at 19:10
Just finished replacing the batteries in a Norelco Spectra 8865 XL shaver that I bought back in 2005. The shaver started acting sluggish, and would only stay on for less than a second, even after charging. Just like a typical guy, I took it apart to see if I could fix it. The two screws on the back require a fine blade flat screwdriver or a tiny TORX, I don’t know what size. The back of the shaver came off easily, exposing a NiCd ’2 AA’ battery pack. I found a replacement pack at Interstate Battery for $12.99. If you cannot or do not want to solder, they also offer a rebuild service for $24.99. I removed the dead pack using desoldering braid and a pump, cleaned the connection, and soldered in the new pack, total time about 15 minutes. I also think the ‘proprietary replacement battery’ scheme is ecologically unsound. I had to give up on my old Panasonic Linear shaver because it had TERMINAL PINS spot-welded to the ends of both batteries. What a crock. Thanks for the help!
I am not personally familiar with the quadra, although it appears that the electricshaverstore.com sells batteries for them, and so the repair should be similar to other models. The batteries will be soldered to the board. I’m not sure about the plastic cage, but it may be an optional part that you don’t need to re-use.
It may be easier to cut off the old battery pack solder tabs with diagonal cutters to get the pack off the circuit board. If you don’t have desoldering experience, seek out the help of someone who does since it’s easy to overheat and damage a circuit board in attempting to desolder components. It requires a device called a ‘solder sucker’ which is a spring-loaded vacuum tool that you use to remove the molten solder. It requires some practice to know how to do this properly.
Alternately, you can sometimes just cut the battery tabs off at the board and solder the new battery tabs to the existing tabs, which may be easier if you don’t have a solder sucker to remove the old tabs from the board.
And, of course, there’s always the option of returning the shaver to the electricshaverstore.com. It appears that they charge about $20 extra for labor and return shipping if they replace the batteries.
Bruce Houghton September 1st, 2009 at 08:46
Thanks for the advice. I was trying to take my Remington R-875 apart to replace my batteries. I found my ‘manual’. It showed to remove the 2 Phillips screws on the back. Then lift the back cover and slide (wiggle) the back out from under the head assembly. The R-875 takes 2 – N600AA 600mah ni-cads with solder tabs.
Robert Foxman September 1st, 2009 at 17:48
Just ordered the replacement batteries for my Remington R 9190 Thanks for the info on the hidden screws. I probley would have just thrown it away.
Colin Neblett October 3rd, 2009 at 15:03
I am soooo thankful to you for the description of how to take off the screws of my remington r9190. The 2 I could not find were the same 2 under that rubber flap.Your description is priceless. At time of writing I am just going to try to get the batteries at Radio Shack and then come back and open it up now that I am confident that I can get the cover off.Thank you.Thank you.
Michael Daily October 9th, 2009 at 05:53
I’ve replaced the rechargeable batteries in three Norelco shavers. It seems to get harder to get to the batteries. My current Norelco is the Spectra 8865XL and it was quite difficult to replace the batteries. It looks like Norelco doesn’t want you to replace the batteries so you’ll have to buy a new shaver. The batteries are still holding a fairly good charge but I need new heads. The best price I’ve found was $26.99 plus $3.75 shipping so I may just look into getting a new shaver. Does anyone know of a shaver that is easy to replace the batteries in?
Jansen October 31st, 2009 at 13:47
Thanks for posting this how-to guide, Lee.
I can’t imagine how many rechargeable shavers and other devices are thrown in the trash just because the batteries don’t hold their charge any more. ‘Disposable’ electronics with years of service still left in them! Wouldn’t it be nice if shaver manufacturers used board-mounted battery holders instead of those damn spot-welded battery tabs? But I can’t see that happening when tabs are cheaper and holders might contradict the ‘no user serviceable parts inside’ philosophy (rolls eyes).
Anyway, I just replaced my second Remington shaver battery. My previous shaver (I forget the model) was purchased in 2000. I replaced the batteries 2-3 years later and got another couple of years out of it before buying my next shaver. I upgraded to the Remington R650s a few years ago, because it’s waterproof/washable. Recently the battery life has diminished to only a couple of shaves per charge. Time for surgery!
The Remington R650s comes apart just like the Remington 8100 shown in the photos, but only contains a single 1.2 volt AA like the Norelco 6843XL. I was impressed (and slightly surprised) to find the AA was actually a NiMH cell, and not another one of those horrible low-capacity, obsolete-technology NiCads like my previous shaver and the models shown above.
The battery was glued to the board, and had a temperature sensor glued to it like the 8100 does. I made a mess of disconnecting the battery tabs, so I ended up removing them completely and soldering short connecting wires to the board. Rather than trying to source the official Remington replacement battery, I simply replaced it with one of my Rayovac 2100MAH Hybrid NiMH’s.
These hybrids are excellent batteries, and use the same technology as Sanyo Eneloops and Duracell Pre-charged NiMHs. The best thing is that unlike most rechargeables, they can hold a charge for months if you need them to. Most NiMHs are also reasonable forgiving of various charging currents, so for a few dollars each they should do fine as shaver replacements instead of spending $10+ on the official replacement.
Perhaps this information will help somebody else who is thinking of replacing their shaver battery. Good luck!
I am replacing the single AA NiMH cell on a Norelco 6617X . Thanks to this tutorial it is pretty straightforward . However I would like to use retail Nimh batterys (no tabs) . Can I solder leads to the battery without destroying it ? – Thanks
Hi Pete, I think you’ll find it difficult to solder to the end of a battery. The metal case will try to draw the heat from your soldering iron as fast as you can apply it. Commercial batteries with tabs use a spot weld to attach the tabs. This technique applies the heat only to the place where the tab makes contact with the battery, but it requires specialized equipment.
Great Info Pete. I almost busted the Norelco trying to get into it. Good info on the hidden screws. Norelco and others have a crappy way to make people pay again for something they already have. The spread of info on the net will stop some of that for sure. Too bad most people are just scared that something will blow up or overheat or shock them. Generally, people do not have a clue how to repair appliances, hence a landfill full of them.
Jansen December 29th, 2009 at 03:10
Re: soldering to regular AA batteries without spot-welded tabs. I had no problems when I did it. I used a Weller professional temperature-controlled soldering station, set the temperature high, and did it fairly quickly. Easy! You should be able to do it with a basic lower temperature iron, but it might take a few attempts.
The Norelco 6843XL came apart quite easily. I just removed two screws (although I did need to use a torx driver) and then popped its snap joints apart.
Where are the snap joints? (I have a 5821XL)
I think you are right on everything that you have said.
That being said I want to buy the correct batteries for my Remington R9190. As written by Michael above, that some models came with NiMH batteries and not NiCd Batteries. Is there a way of knowing which type of battery the razor has and the correct mAh power rating without opening the unit up?
Great Blog Thanks
I have a Remington MS3 2000 and I can’t find the hidden screws. Has someone else found them?
Morris January 24th, 2010 at 09:44
I have a Remington MS3 2000 that no longer holds a good charge and need info on what battery to buy.
The two cells in the razor have no information on them but appear to be AA size NiCad or NiMH. The cells are wired in series and have solder tabs on them and are attached to the board with wires so should be easy to replace.
Just followed the excellent directions to disassemble my Remington Titanium R- 9190 model Shaver. The batteries it came with are listed as Harding HS-AAS 1650-T, 0511U, MiMH, China.
For replacement I ordered (2) AA, 1.2V, 2300 MAh with spot welded tabs, item # 15254 from onlybatteries.com.. The cost was $3.69 each plus shipping.
Will wait for the new batteries to arrive before disassembly of solder contacts.
In ref. to the temperature sensor on the Remington 9190, that is attached to the left side NiMH battery, what would be the best way to remove the two metal leads that come from the circuit board, and are attached to the battery by a tan colored plastic substance ?
And what would be the best way to reconnect the leads of the temperature sensor to the new battery? Is the tan colored substance pliable enough to use over again, if scraped off. Thought I would ask before attempting this proceedure.
I have a Remington Titanium MS2390 and have found my way into the batteries but I can’t tell whether they are NiCd or NiMh or even something else. They are AA size with solder tags, coloured green and marked CAAHD JEBI 0% Mercury. Any help appreciated.
I just completed changing out the Nimh batteries on my Remington Titanium R-9190 and its working fine and holding the charge. I called up onlybatteries.com at 1 800 660-7705 and spoke to them about what would be a good replacement battery from the Harding HS-AAS, 1650T, 0511U, NiMH batteries. They suggested the TENERGY, NiMH, 2300mAH, AA, 1.2V. It might be worth a try calling them and asking about the battery you described in your Feb. 10, post.
The batteries were $3.69 each plus shipping.
Jeff – many thanks for your advice. I’ll go with NiMH batteries. As I live in the UK I’ll source the batteries from a local supplier.
sunzi888 March 13th, 2010 at 16:13
Thank you all for the information!
In my case it is a Remington 9100. I went through the all the trouble to finish the replacement of two AAA rechargeable NiMH batteries but only to find out the shaver still will not work. I opened up the case again to examine the inside and the back of the printing board. My guess is that the previous batteries leakage had already rusted the circuits.
Anyone follows the instructions here please check the corrosion situation in your shaver before ordering the batteries.
Before I replaced the AA MIMH batteries on the R-9190, the unit would not hold a charge, but did work when plugged into the wall outlet.
George Shaw March 22nd, 2010 at 22:55
Soldering to the end of a battery is not that difficult if you take the right steps. First you tin the battery contact area, tin the wire, make sure there is some excess solder on one or both, and then melt the solder on the two together. Thus:
- clean or lightly sand and clean the end of the battery
- use a well tinned iron of sufficient wattage with a blob of solder on it
- if you have rosin flux, apply it to the battery terminal and then apply the iron quickly on the terminal to tin it and leave a blob of solder. Be quick.
- if you don’t have rosin flux, use the blob of solder on the iron to help transfer the heat to the battery and quickly touch rosin-core solder to the margin of the solder blob. This will spread and tin the battery.
- tin the connecting wire
- use the iron to melt the solder on the two surfaces together
My shaver had 700mAh AA NiCads and, from the limited research I performed, I found that these generally charge at a lower voltage and current than the 1600mAh to 2400mAh NiMH batteries available cheaply everywhere. Thus while the charger would not be fast to reach full capacity, it would not hurt them either. My shaver has an LCD that tells the charge state, and while it does not indicate a longer run time (I still recharge when it reaches zero) than the 45 minutes I originally got, it seems to work fine for 5 or so charges so far and would probably run 3-4x that if the batteries are actually fully charged. It seems to charge just as fast.
I have a ms 5700 which also has the Harding HS-AAS, 1650T batteries, and i ended up ordering part 476-2049 from http://uk.rs-online.com/web/home.html, to open the unit up, remove the visable screw from the back, then remove the 4 small screws which can be seen after taking the shaving foils off, then remove the grey plastic cover to show the 2 hidden screws
tpatten April 4th, 2010 at 16:40
I was just about to ditch my 9190, and decided to search for a battery, seeing your listing on the first page. Thanks for site and solving the mystery of the hidden screws. I’m getting mine from batteryspace.com, PN MH-AA2200TB @ $2.20/ea + ship.
Kenneth Cook April 5th, 2010 at 21:56
how to open a Reminton 360 (model#R5130) to relace it’s batteries?
SDD SF April 9th, 2010 at 13:38
Excellent article! I have a Norelco Quadra that has worked well for almost two years. Yesterday the button apparently broke internally and the unit wouldn’t shut off. So I plugged it in and gave it a good charge. Today I took out the two screws and removed the back piece. Batteries (2x AA NiCd) are visible, but no obvious way to get under them to the button assembly. at this point it is only good for throwing at stray animals, so I might just go brute-force, but would like to know if anyone can give me advice on how to handle this, first? Thanks!
SDD SF April 10th, 2010 at 15:54
Brute force worked. It was a plastic piece under the button that had simply fallen over. I could have glued it in place but instead drilled the button and just poke a stick in there. I never let it get wet anyway.
Kenneth Cook April 10th, 2010 at 20:15
The newest Reminton shavers the model#R5130 and the R4100 both open the same way But I don’t know how they open so I can’t change the batteries. the only screw I can find is tiny philips head in the head. there is no soft rubber on them only hard plastic. ANY KNOW HOW TO OPEN THESE SHAVERS TO CHANGE BATTERIES?
Mel Hagen May 4th, 2010 at 05:18
Can anyone please tell me how to disassemble a Remington MS-280? I can get the 4 screws out of the top (under the cutters) with no problem but I cannot find screws holding the case together. Do I just need to pry the 2 sides apart? Thanks.
Check your handbook for the shaver. I noticed on some handbooks/directions, they describe how to disassemble the electric shaver, so u can properly dispose of, and recycle the batteries, if the unit can no longer be used. Look under batteries or battery recycling.
I cannot remember which model it was, but it was a Remington, and showed where all the hidden screws were located.
diego June 28th, 2010 at 18:23
I only want to point our that my phillips hq6720 (norelco in europe) is 8 years old, never needed change batteries, charge lasts 2 months and most imporntant it uses NIQUEL METAL HIDRIDE NIMH batteries. BE aware that Nic Cad batteries have memory and that you can not mix NiCad batts with NIMH charger or viceversa. NIMH has very little memory effect.
Remington MS3 Models: MS3-2000, MS3-2700, MS3-3000, MS3-3500, MS3-3700, MS3-4000, MS3-4500, MS3-4700, MS3-0004, RS8503, RS8966, RS8986 (may be a partial list)
Will not work with MS3-1000 or MS3-1700. They use a different charger cord, but a lower unit is available for those two.
I just wanted to let you know about a site on eBay that I found for the above listed Remingtons. I don’t know the guy, but I’m very happy with the service.
Remington made these models difficult to take apart for battery changes. They glued the pieces down that hide the screws. but you can buy a new lower case with a new motor, new batteries, new buttons and new trimmer.
You get keep your head, cutters, screens (expensive) and charger. He shipped to me quickly for less than $30.
His eBay store is shaver_outlet_inc and he calls these the “Lower Unit”. Read his description carefully, because some charger cords are different.
Bruce in Jersey September 27th, 2010 at 18:07
DON’T THROW THAT TRIMMER AWAY!
I had a Norelco T7000 beard trimmer (best I ever owned!)which I gave to my son and replaced with a successor model, the QT4021. Both models use AA NiMH batteries. When the factory-installed battery failed on my T7000, I replaced it with a drugstore-purchased Duracell rechargable. It worked fine, and the replacement job was easy.
It isn’t necessary to solder the connections to the new battery if you salvage the metal tabs soldered to the original one(s). (I just tore the off with longnose pliers.) I just held the terminals in place against the new battery and wrapped the assembly lengthwise with electrical tape. The stretch in the tape makes for a sufficiently good electrical contact, and easy disconnection if you ever have to replace the battery again.
These trimmers hold up for years, and it’s disgraceful that Philips tells customers to throw them away when the batteries die.
Gave up before I broke it because I could not find the two small hidden screws. It is like new
I did not have time to read all the feedback…..but….did anybody try to hook a 50 or 100 ohm resistor across the battery pack for about 48 hours without removing the battery? The idea here is to get the battery down to zero volts. They are known to develop a type of oxide internaly. Going to zero volts forces the battery to recharge evenly. This may have to be done several times. It is important to use a meter to check for zero volts and then to give it a healthy and proper recharge each time. Worth a try.
Could get a little more time out of the battery.
John Harrison October 11th, 2010 at 05:15
Thanks for the info re Remington 8100,great pictures. I also have a Remington RS 4843 Microscreen 2 in need of new batteries.Any info on this model would be much appreciated.
Steve O. November 5th, 2010 at 01:13
Have not tried this yet, have a R9190, it will still run but have to plug it in for a minute, unplug it, then plug it back in for a few minutes, then can shave. Now that I know how to take it apart, perhaps I can clean it – replace the batteries, and have a cordless experience again. THANK YOU FOR THE POST!!!!
Tom Gundlach November 21st, 2010 at 16:26
I have a Remington R-9190 thanks to pictorial got the case opened OK. What is the best (easiest) way to remove and reattach the temperature sensor? Checked a couple of battery stores on-line and shipping ends up costing more than batteries1
Tom Gundlach November 24th, 2010 at 03:50
Pry the tabs off old batteries and solder to replacement battery. Cut temperature sensor off and reapply to replacement, it stuck without adding any additional thermal glue.
John Poe December 28th, 2010 at 09:29
I also have a Remington Titanium MS-280 that I can’t figure out how to open up – and can find no help on the web. I’m afraid my only option is to replace the thing – which I’m SURE was Remington’s intention when they designed it. I find it utterly disgusting that I have to throw away a perfectly good shaver (with a fairly recently replaced expensive cutter/foil assembly no less!) just because a couple of cheap drugstore-grade ‘AA’ NiCad batteries have gone bad in it. It is unconscionable that these manufacturers design these things so that the batteries can’t be easily replaced by the user!
NEED HELP WITH BATTERY ORIENTATION
I have a Norelco 5841 XL and bought replacement batteries (NiCad). However, I did not pay attention to the orientation of the old battery pack before I took it out. Can anyone tell me, when looking at the circut board of the shaver – charge port down, what the orientation of the batteries should be (which side the + goes on the top)?
I have a Remington Titanium 5300 that has been barely used–and the batteries crapped out. It had NIMH batteries (2ea AA). I merely went to Walmart and purchased a 4 pack of Raovac NIMH rechargeables–no tabs, just regular 1.2v batteries @($7.00) and installed them. I carefully tore off the spot-welded tabs on the original batteries with a pair of needle nose pliers, lightly sanded the new batteries and then tinned both the batteries and tabs and resoldered. I have a professional soldiering station and have no problems attaching wires or tabs directly to the batteries–jut have to have a good soldering iron, clean and tin everything and solder it quick to keep the heat down.
Overall, easy fix for what I think is a piece of crap $150.00 razor (gift from the misses when my 10 year old Braun battery went bad). Will be going back to Braun when this craps out again.
I have model R9190 and need to replace batteries. The instructions that I have been reading on this site have been supurbly detailed. However, I there are no hidden screws under rubber covering on back as shown in photo at beginning of post of April 6th, 2008 by Lee Devlin. Does anyone know of any other hidden screws, or does the case simply a snap together and have to be pried apart?
I certainly areee with all the other posts about manafacturers meking it so difficul to replace batteries just so you will buy another shaver. I have had my R9190 for many years and love the overall reliability of it. This is first repair it has ever required.
Wow, I must be a total neanderthal, because after installing new batteries in a 9190 and reconnecting everything it quit working. Is there some kind of tripwire that disables the works or what?
Hi Greg, I don’t know of any trip wires or circuitry to disable it. I’d look for any cold solder joints and measure the voltage coming into the battery circuit.
winston May 19th, 2011 at 12:09
Hi Lee, Thanks for the illustration. People like you make this thing called Web to look for solutions rather than buying new razar every so often! It takes some one very special to do what you have done.
Beardless July 20th, 2011 at 14:27
Excellent, Lee, Thank you.
FYI, I used this info to repair my Remington Titanium MS3 3700 Washable. The NiCad batteries died. (one died, but it was unusable with just one battery in service.) Taking apart the case involved 7 attachments. The small phillips screw near the charger was the easy one. 2 other screws also retained that half of the clamshell (the “back” of the handle.) These 2 Phillips screws are seen under the foil. You don’t need to remove the screws that hold down the “front” (meaning the side where the switches are) nor do you need to remove the screws which hold the cutter actuators. The remaining 4 connectors are found on each side of the razor handle. By removing (peeling away from the handle) the rubber side grips, you will see a square stainless steel clip that secures one clamshell side to the other. Perhaps they will come off the razor when you peel back the rubber grips.
See other comments regarding the use of batteries with tabs or soldering or taping the new batteries in place.
A word of caution regarding reassembly. It can be tricky to get all the tabs in place after the replacement batteries are installed. You may want to have a 3rd hand available, for example to push the foil-releasing-cam’s button(s) into their slot as the “back” of the clamshell is eased into place. Likewise, be careful about how the metal tines on the “tail” of the razor are intercepting the pins by which the charger connects. The tines stand up like fingers from the circuit board. However, the prongs that carry the power from the charger have a narrow zone and a wide zone, so you may need to close the 2 halves to within maybe 4 millimeters of each other, then reach in to shift the tines up/down “headward or tailward” so they intercept the narrow zone of the prongs. You may need to do this from both the left and the right sides.
FYI, I found 1000 mAh NiCad batteries on eBay, the seller is Sunn Battery Co, in Florida. $1.30 each at this time, with reasonable shipping.
I am trying to find the hidden screw on my R650. In you article, you implied that it is similar to the screw location in the Remington 8100.It The picture of the8100 does not look like the R650. Any suggestions as to where the hidden screw may be? Would Remington send me a diagram?
Hi Todd, It was one of the commenters of the article that implied that the R650s came apart just like the 8100. However, after looking at images of the R650s on the internet, I can see that they are not the same as the 8100. It’s possible that Remington updated the razor but recycled the model number. The R8100 has a slide switch that exposed a hidden screw. It appears that the R650s has a rubber cover over the on/off switch. I also noticed that there is a model R650 without the ‘s’, and it looks like a completely different razor. In the case of my R9100 series, it was necessary to pry up the rubber to expose the hidden screws. Perhaps they used a similar technique on the R650. It’s unlikely that Remington would be of help, because they would just want you to purchase another razor. If you find them, please let us know (or, even better, send a picture), because I’m sure it would help someone else in the future.
Great directions, thanks for posting. My R-9100 had 2 Sanyo 600 mAh AA Ni-Cd batteries. Make sure you open the back of yours and confirm if you have Ni-Cd. I bought 2 with solder tails on eBay for $7 shipped, and they are 1000 mAh, so I should be able to go much longer without recharging. Took the 2 screws out, and you can pop the whole grey trimmer piece off with a small screwdriver to be able to totally separate the 2 halves. Tear the foam off the old batteries and separate the temperature sensor with a small screwdriver. Solder the new ones on, hook everything back together, and glue the foam and temp sensor back in place. Maybe 10 minutes max.
Lowell October 14th, 2011 at 16:11
I have a remington ms31700, has anyone replace batteries in one of these. Hidden screws??? Any information would be appreciated.
thanks for this website.
Much appreciate all this info. What a shame I threw away the others, however, I will be fixing this one (R 9190). The battery holder sounds like a good idea.
I have read through the comments and see there have been some questions about the Remington MS-280/290. I just did the replacement of the batteries in mine and took some photos. Though I have a flickr account, I don’t know how long I’d keep the photos there. Would you want me to send them to you for a tutorial on it also?
Thanks saved me from purchasing another razor.I did solder in the AA batteries,had to replace stainless jumper with copper wire and connect wires from razor directly to batteries.Again thanks
Saw your post and I too have a MS 280 that I’m trying to replace the batteries in. Have gotten it apart except for the rear cover. How does it separate from the bottom where the charging plug goes in? Please send photos ! Thanx
Gotta love the ‘net. Thanks for the info on the R9190. Bought a NiMH battery from Radio Shack(or The Source if you’re Canadian)for $10, PN#2318281A. It’s a triple battery rated at 1500 mAH. Cut it apart with an exacto knife and scissors. Made holes in the tabs with a small awl and soldered everything together. Works great and hopefully the NiHM battery will last longer!!
Richard January 17th, 2012 at 14:34
Have Remington Microscreen MS2-200. Any clue how to dis-assemble this for battery replacement? Thanks
Tony H January 25th, 2012 at 10:11
I have a Remington R9190 whose batteries no longer hold a charge. The batteries stopped holding a reasonable (i.e. useful)charge 2 years ago. So since then I use the shaver while plugged in. Problem is it takes longer and longer for the shaver to turn on while pressing down and holding down the on/off switch until the shaver starts. 2 years ago when the batteries first “died” you only had to press down and hold down the on/off switch for about 5 seconds. A year ago that grew to pressing down and holding down the on/off switch for about 60 seconds before the shaver would start. Now, 2 years later you have to press down and hold down the on/off switch for about 2 minutes before the shaver will start.
Question is, if it’s a dual powered shaver why does it take so long to turn on while plugged in? Shouldn’t it start instantly when it’s plugged in? This has always made me think that the small circuit board in the shaver contains a “nuisance chip” from the manufacturer which forces the shaver to take longer and longer to start as time goes by, thereby forcing the owner to purchase a new shaver because it takes so long for the shaver to start when plugged into an electrical outlet. Has anyone else experienced this problem while running the shaver while plugged into an electrical outlet after the rechargeable batteries have long since died “died”?
Let’s say there is no “nuisance chip”; can the shaver be classified as being “dual powered” if operation of the shaver in the “direct plug in” mode is hampered by “dead batteries”?
Daren March 5th, 2012 at 07:51
To Tony H: What is happening when it takes so long to turn on the shaver is that most of the power is sucked up by the dead batteries. It takes that long to get enough juice into the batteries so it will power up. I haven’t tried it, but I bet if you unsolder the batteries, it will work just fine while plugged in. Or you can plug it in before taking your shower, and when you get out it should work with no delay.
Thanks, Lee, for this great site! I found it while looking to find which batteries I need to buy before taking it all apart.
I have a remington R-800 triple head razor. I need to replace the batteries (12vdc, 650ma)
How do I get the cover open to the battery compartment. Also A good place to purchase the batteries.
Barkantji Bruce March 10th, 2012 at 16:58
Greetings from Down Under, White Cliffs Opalfield Australia.
I have just replaced the batteries in my 15 year old Remington HS 6720.
Remove head cover (same as for cleaning)Remove 2 ph screws, remove Black ‘Thumb Pad’ this allows removeable of ‘Slide Switch’ behind slide a little ‘White’ switch trigger. Lift trigger out. The shaver case now slides off. The rest is straight forward replacing the 2 AA batteries (from Bunnings Warehouse). Reassemble reverse order.
Thankyou for the insperation to restore an old faithfull.
Thanks for the tips. After studying your site I decided to do the same to my Remington MS3-2000. I went to Walmart and bought rechargeable phone batteries (2.4 V, 550mAh). They come wrapped in a black plastic. Once you cut the plastic, what you have is two AAA rechargeable batteries, already assembled with wires. You just cut the connector off, peel the ends of the wires and connect them to the ones in the shaver. It works like it did when it was new.
Can anyone please help. I have a Remington R650 not the R650s (they are very different)
I have ordered and received replacement batteries. I cannot get the case open. I have this website about hidden screws but can not find any on this model. I did take the 2 long phillips head screws out of the top under the cutter assembly and removed it but still can’t get case apart. Can anyone please help. The book for the R650 is same as R600 if that helps
Ryan C August 11th, 2012 at 19:55
Thanks to John H for sending you the photos on how to replace the batteries in a Remington MS280/290. I have a MS280 I’ve been using for a few years now and my son who is soon to be 18 has been borrowing my razor. He likes my razor and I can’t find anything he likes at the stores. So I searched online and could only find a “Refurbished” MS280 at Shaving Prophets for $34.00. So I decided to take a chance on buying refurbished….spent $43 total ($9 shipping). Well, I charged it for 24hrs and barely got 1 shave out of it before it died. NOT impressed….should I send it back under the return policy or find replacement batteries. Found someone on ebay that had the batteries and paid $20 for the 2 of them. I replaced them in the razor, charged it for 24hrs and made it through 1 shave so far. So I spent a total of $63 for a shaver I like.
anyone has replaced battery for Remington MS2 200?
Does anyone know where to get the retainer for a Remington R 9190 shaver?
What exactly does the temperature sensor do? Is it critical to the charging of the batteries?
Don Sessler December 1st, 2012 at 11:09
I just replaced the NiCad battery in my Norelco T7000 with a NIMH battery from Costco. Used a Sanyo rechargable (10 for $19.95) without a solder tab. Used a 30 Watt pencil iron to solder the wires to the battery. Just a dab of rosin core solder on the iron and wet the ends of the battery. Attaching the wires was just as easy. Hard part was putting the battery assembly back in the shaver. Wouldn’t go until I saw the slide guides that it goes into. Now works great and my nest challange is my Oral B Triumph tooth brush.
The rest of the batteries will be used in video game controllers rather than buying new AA’s all the time.
The NiCad I removed was 500 mah, the Sanyo are 1900 mah. Probably will never have to charge the shaver.
The temperature sensor is there to protect the batteries from overheating during charging. As the battery gets closer to full charge, charging circuits go into trickle charge mode because if you try to use the same rate of charge as when the batteries are nearly drained, they can overheat, shortening their life.
I thought I had found a 2.5-volt, 500 mA wall wart which would match the output voltage of the two AA cells connected in series in my Remington and which power the motor directly. The idea was to run the shaver directly from the 2.5V wall wart. When the wall wart arrived I got out the voltmeter and found that it was actually putting out about 4.5 volts. I wasn’t about to connect this to the motor for fear of burning it out so I dropped the idea. I did find a dual AAA battery holder at Mouser which fits nicely in the space formerly occupied by the two AA cells. I haven’t implemented this yet. http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=12BH422A-GRvirtualkey56100000virtualkey12BH422A-GR
When the power on my coolskin 7735x started to falter I opened it up and used two ordinary AA rechargables, and that was 5 years ago.
Imagine my disgust when I opened up a few less costly Norelco units and noticed they were underpowered — using only 1 AA. Equally disturbing was the fact that there appeared to be sufficient room for 2 batteries
I am now fondling an 8? year old Remington MS3 1700 that appears to have retained the same power level as the day it was new, and I am guessing it boasts a battery pack which is much more formidable than ONE AA.
Is my assumption correct, i.e., two AA batteries are always better than one, and the primary reason for a one AA design was to save 10? cents per unit….. and potentially shorten lifespan of product.
I’ve seen razors with 2 and others with a single AA cell. The difference you’ll find is the number of shaves between charging. The razor I have with 2 AA batteries can last 2 weeks or more when the batteries are fresh.
Sean Franklin January 4th, 2013 at 14:53
Very good info, I’ve been struggling with my Remington R9190 for years now just plugging it in. That worked fine for a while, then the last couple of years I have to pop open the top and “kick start” it by spinning one of the shafts while I press the power button. Amazing what nuisances we put up with for so long out of habit or laziness.
After finding this site with a quick Google search, I ordered a couple of 2,000 MAh NiMh solder-tab AA cells on eBay. They arrived today, and about half an hour later I used this razor without a cord for the first time literally in years (just on the residual charge that the new batteries had from the factory). It’s charging up now & I’m looking forward to many more years of use from this shaver.
Thanks for providing the pictures & the location of the hidden screws!
I got an estimate for $51.00 plus freight to replace the battery and clean my Norelco 7350XL. I bought heads last year and this is my favorite razor to date that I have owned. I love how you can just rinse it out and call it good. I can solder so I ordered a new battery cleaned and had it back together in 10 minutes. Your site was very helpful and we are saving the planet here.
Cheers from Seattle where it’s good to have a waterproof razor!!
h ball January 12th, 2013 at 18:52
After reading all the posts, I have decided to buy an electric shaver without any batteries. Just plug it in and shave.
Ronald Ulrich January 19th, 2013 at 18:16
Rechargeable batteries at Home Depot, used for solar outside lighting worked in my Ms3 2700 and my dad’s Ms3 2000. Sold under the Hunter Bay brand name on a card of 4. Cost nominal ~$8.00 and rated at 800 mAh, which gives you the charge potential – the higher the number the more charge. They need to be soldered, (no solder thin solder terminals attached, and I used small wire pig tails as I didn’t want to hold everything in the shaver to make the initial solder connection. The + and – usually not labeled on the old nicads but writing Top R and Top L before un-soldering, will allow for a meter testing to check for + or – end on the old ones. My shaver had the + side of one battery connected to the – of the other. Once the bridge was connected, + to – I simply put the two shaver wires to either end of the two batteries to get the correct connection. Turn the switch on and if it runs you have the correct alignment.
My philosophy is if it is broken and you brake it or don’t fix it not much loss. Rather than storing the non-working in the drawer try fixing it and learn each time.
Don’t rule out an AAA battery holder. It comes with easily-solderable leads. http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=12BH422A-GRvirtualkey56100000virtualkey12BH422A-GR
I am trying to open a Remigton DA 307 shaver to change the batteries. removed two screws holding the head end together. The two sides start to separate but holds tight at the bottom. Can’t tell how to separate the bottom plug end. Suspect hidden screws. Don’t want to break it. Do you have instructions on what is holding the bottom end together and how to disassemble? I appreciate the good job site provides on Remingtons, wish it covered the DA-307 which has been a great shaver.
Peter J February 8th, 2013 at 21:52
Hi, thanks for the very helpful site.
I’ve replaced my R 9190 batteries (labelled 1.2V Ni-MH, unknown mAh) with 1.2V, 2400mAh, NiMH, solder tab batteries.
Worked OK for a couple of weeks but now only starts if I charge them for at least 10min, start the shaver while connected to the charger, disconnect it and then it only lasts the length of the shave. If I stop it, the red LED flashes and it won’t restart unless I follow the same procedure.
The batteries seem fully charged, 1.34 on the voltmeter, I’ve tried dis/reconnecting them and running the shaver without the head, to no avail.
Any suggestions? I’m aware some charging circuits require batteries of specific capacity. Should I try a lower mAh? Is 1.34V per battery enough?
Any help appreciated.
Hi Peter, It seems like 1.34V per cell would indicate you’ve got good batteries, but perhaps under load one of them is not able to deliver its rated current. I’d try measuring the voltage across each of them when the razor is running. I’m not sure that lowering the capacity would help, since when it comes to capacity, I’ve never seen a situation where more capacity didn’t work better.
Peter J February 10th, 2013 at 07:42
Thanks Lee, I appreciate your advice. I’ve replaced both with a new pair of 2400 mAh, I’ll see how they go. I recall reading of some chargers which are designed for batteries upto a specific mAh value and that these chargers struggle to charge batteries of higher mAh. Given however that neither you or others seem to have encountered that problem, your suggestion is more likely. There is a chance the shaver was accidentally switched on in luggage for a while just before the replacement batteries started playing up, maybe that damaged them? Cheers!
Peter m May 4th, 2013 at 01:58
Can anyone help with instructions on how to change the battery in a lady’s remington shaver model WDF 6000
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