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  • Fixing a Sony Wega with a 6 or 7 blink code

    Posted on May 18th, 2011 Lee Devlin 490 comments
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    One day I returned home only to find that our Sony Wega TV (Model KV34HS420) was no longer working. It would respond to the remote control and begin to start to turn on, but then it would make a clicking sound and turn itself off before a picture appeared on the screen. After that, the standby/timer LED would continue blinking 6 or 7 times. This blinking LED is a diagnostic code, but its description of the potential issue provided little value. After reading a few dozen postings on the issue, a pattern began to emerge that made me hopeful that I could repair it myself.

    We purchased this TV in 2005 while the jury was still out about which flat panel TV technology would eventually replace the tried-and-true CRT technology. Back then, the LCD and plasma flat panel displays still had viewing angle and reliability issues and cost 2 or 3 times as much as an equivalent-sized CRT model and so we just decided to replace our 15-year-old Sony CRT TV with a modern HD-capable CRT TV. I was hoping to get 15 years or more out of this $1500 investment before having to send it to the landfill. After all, this was a SONY, not some no-name brand that I’d expect to fail after only a few years. And tube TVs usually last a very long time. I have one in my basement I purchased in 1985 that is still working fine.

    This TV has excellent picture quality and no restrictions in viewing angle, and other than its size and weight, I found it much better than what was available with flat panel technologies at the time. Its speakers provide excellent sound quality, much nicer than the tinny sound produced by some of the razor-thin flat panels. It sits in a corner and therefore takes up no more room than an equivalent size flat panel display. So, after only 6 years, I was wondering whether it would need to be replaced or if I could fix it. After a fair amount of forum reading, I found that this 6 or 7 LED blink code was a rather common problem, along with a common solution, namely to replace the MCZ3001DB integrated circuits known as IC8002 and IC6501 on the ‘D’ board. This chip is functionally identical to earlier versions of it known as MCZ3001D or MCZ3001DA. The forums had many people describing their success at making the repair, but pictures of this procedure were non-existent, hence the reason for this blog posting. Also, the level of difficulty and amount of work involved was not clearly described, so I hope to explain and show what I did so the reader can determine whether it is within his or her skill level to attempt this repair.

    This TV weighs 200 lbs. I didn’t want to have to move it from its stand. Fortunately, it was possible to remove the entire back shell simply by removing all of its screws and sliding it off. There are a lot of screws, about a dozen around the periphery of the TV along with several more on the back panel, but fortunately, it’s a one-person job although it wouldn’t hurt to have a helper because the shell, although fairly lightweight, is bulky. Removing the shell allows access to the ‘D’ board.

    After removing about a 17 screws, the rear shell can be slipped off.

    The ‘D’ board is the one shown in the picture below. I should mention that before removing the cover, you must unplug the TV and give it a few hours for the high voltages to dissipate so as to avoid shock hazards. It’s best to unplug it and wait overnight, since if the TV is not working so there’s no need for it to remain connected to power.

    Sony Wega 'D' board

    The 'D' board shown above is held in with about 8 screws.

    It wasn’t clear how to remove the board, or if it would be necessary to undo all of the wiring connections. Some of the connectors were easy to remove, but the 3 high voltage wires that connect to the CRT did not have easy-to-unplug connections. I eventually figured out that I didn’t need to remove those wires at all. There are a number of connectors that need to be flipped upward to disconnect the ‘D’ board from an adjacent board. It wasn’t clear at first how they worked, but if you feel around for a flange you can pull them upward, they’ll unsnap and pivot up 90 degrees like a draw bridge. Two of the connectors had latches on them that require squeezing the lever to unlatch it before they will come out. I unplugged all the other cables I could find, removed about 8 screws, and the board came out far enough to let me rotate it into a position where I could access the bottom of the board. It was necessary to use a stubby screw driver to remove one screw that was far forward, hidden between two connectors, and just under the CRT. To make that easier, you will notice that there are two plastic hooks, one on each side of the tray that the boards are mounted to that you can unlatch which allows all the PC boards to slide back about 4 inches. That makes the front screw easier to access, although you’ll still need that stubby screwdriver. (I’ve since added images of the latch and the board slid back at the end of this article.) After you get all the screws out, the board is still held in by a few plastic clamps on the edge which you can bend back a little to release the board. The board was still tethered by the high voltage connections, but I was able to fix it ‘in place’, by turning it over like shown in the image below.

    Sony 'D' board shown flipped in repair position

    Bottom of Sony 'D' board shown rotated in repair position. Note, it's not necessary to disconnect the wire with the suction-cup-like insulator on it.

    Unsoldering the two ICs is not difficult if you use a spring loaded solder sucker like the one shown below. Do not waste your time trying to use solder wick or a bulb-type solder sucker for desoldering the chips. Search for YouTube videos with the word ‘desoldering’ if you’ve never desoldered a chip before to see how it works. Also, make sure that the soldering iron is a low-wattage type, and not too hot to avoid lifting the copper traces.

    Spring-loaded Solder Sucker

    A spring loaded solder pump/sucker like this one works best to remove the solder.

    Close up of IC6501 and IC8002 from bottom of board. Note each IC has two unsoldered pins.

    Do NOT solder pins 13 or 17. If you're using a socket, it would be best to clip the legs in those holes off the socket.

    Be aware that each chip has two pins are not soldered to the board. This is normal and so don’t try to solder those pins or the fix will not work. Take note of the orientation of the chips since there is a notch on one end facing the closest edge of the board. You do NOT want to install the chips backwards. Also, don’t solder the new chips in directly to the board. Use sockets in case you ever need to do this repair again, since having to unsolder these chips is most of the work. If they were socketed in the first place, you could replace them without having to solder or even having to remove the D board.

    I wasn’t sure of the best way to purchase the ICs, since forum participants mentioned purchasing them on Ebay, where there are several China-based vendors offering MCZ3001DB chips but the shipping times from China vary considerably and can take from 10 days to 3 weeks. The vendor I chose was TriState Module because I wanted a U.S.-based company. They sent me a pair of ICs for around $20 including shipping charges. However, they no longer have these parts in stock and they are getting harder to find. I also needed a pair of 18-pin dip sockets which I found at the local Radio Shack for $.59 each. They look like the parts on the left in the image below:

    pair of mcz3001db with pair of 18-pin dip socket

    After replacing the ICs with sockets, you’ll need to install the replacement ICs. Odds are that only one of the chips is bad, but since you won’t know which one, it’s best to just replace them both. It is necessary to squeeze the pins together to get the legs aligned with the holes in the sockets. This style of IC has its legs spread out by default, and so they won’t automatically align unless you pre-bend them inward just a little to align with the holes in the socket. Carefully examine the chips after you install them to make sure all the legs made it into the socket and that the little half-circle notch at the end of the chip is facing toward the near edge of the board as shown in the photo below.

    MCZ3001DB chips in sockets

    IC8002 and IC6501 installed in their new sockets.

    After re-installing the board and attaching all the cables, it would be a good idea to test it to make sure the repair worked before reinstalling the cover. If you unlatched the tray and slid the boards back to make access easier, you’ll need to put them back in position or else the remote control and on/off button won’t reach the board. With luck, your TV will be back up and running, avoiding a premature trip to the landfill. I can’t guarantee this fix will work for you, but the consensus on the forums is that it frequently fixes the 6 or 7 blink code problems on the Sony Wega flat screen CRT models.

    I found the repair to be of intermediate difficulty, and the result was very gratifying when the TV turned on again. Our TV has now been working like new for more than 2 years, and if it ever happens again, I could fix it more easily thanks to the sockets that are installed. It felt good to resurrect a TV that has great picture and sound quality and, hopefully, a lot of life left in it.

    And, in the event it doesn’t work for you, then maybe getting one of those new and improved flat panel TVs is your best alternative. :-)

    [UPDATE 2013-11-15] I mentioned earlier about the difficulty of finding and removing one of the screws under the CRT. Some of these TVs, including the model I repaired, have a set of latches that allow you to release the board and carrier and slide it back about 4″ to make that screw much easier to access. You can see it in the images below:

    Sony D-board latches

    The D-board and its carrier have latches on both sides that can be lifted to slide the assembly backward about 4 inches.

    D-board repair position

    D-board slid back 4″ into the repair position.

     

    490 responses to “Fixing a Sony Wega with a 6 or 7 blink code”

    1. I started searching for a solution for the same problem and same TV and just found this post from a day ago! I could have written the same introduction. Thanks so much I will be tryng the repair in the next week or so and let you know. Fabulous post and clear instructions – many thanks for taking the time to do this. If i need to repair my washing machine transmission I will check out your other link!

    2. Hi Dave, I hope it works as well for you as it did for me. I don’t usually get comments this quickly on one of my repair postings, so perhaps there are a lot of Sony Wega TVs with this issue.

    3. Great article and pictures. I have a KV34HS510 that had the 6 blinking lights. I did some additional research regarding desoldering chips and followed your advice and to my surprise I have my Sony back online. Thanks again….

    4. Lee,

      I want to thank you for the information you posted on how to fix this problem.

      I had the same problem that you describe in your article on my TV earlier this week. The technician that came to the house indicated that the problem was something else but I did not buy it. In searching the web I came across your article and agreed I had the same problem you were describing. I ordered the parts on Tuesday and received them yesterday (Friday). Your instructions were right on and I was able to accomplish the task in little less than three hours.

      Thanks to you my family can happily watch TV today and have quite a few $$$ to spare. Pictures in your article were crucial and great to have. Thank You, Thank You, Thank You!

    5. Excellent article, easy to follow. You point out the 2 connections on each IC that are NOT soldered to the board. What did you do with the IC sockets when you soldered them into the board? Did you solder the originally NOT soldered pins? Or did yoy leave them unsoldered? Did you perhaps cut those 2 pins off the IC sockets? So far I have not read any one else’s postings that specifically say to either solder all the pins on the new chips, or make sure the pins in question remain NOT connected to the circuit board. Thanks for your help.

      Al

    6. Yes, you should leave those pins unsoldered.

    7. Just finished following your instructions and fixing my Sony Wega. THANK YOU!!! I can’t believe it’s working again. I was so sure it was going to be replace-instead-of-repair time. But noooo! Ha. Thanks again. Your piece here it what made it all possible. I’ve never done any board level repairs like that in my life before.

    8. One suggestion, to make it a bit easier. After struggling to get that one board screw out that’s under the CRT, I chose to leave it off rather than struggling to put it back in. It’s in a very tight spot and most folks will be challenged to find a stubby _enough_ stubby.

    9. That’s a good suggestion. That screw is in a tight spot and I also thought about leaving it out.

    10. Would those IC numbers also be for a 32″ sony wega

    11. I would bet that they are the same for all wega KVxx models, but if you want to make sure, just take the back off the TV and take a look at the D board before purchasing them. The numbers are visible on top of the chips (and you’ll need the back off to do the repair anyway).

    12. Clear instructions, now i have my tv set back again, MCZ3001DB x2…Many thanks man, very clear pictures, was thinking throw to the trash container in first place, but now my kids and myself will enjoy this great set more time….
      THANK YOU!!!

    13. so when you use the sockets does that mean there is no soldering required?

    14. Hi Josh, If you use the sockets, you’ll have to unsolder the original chips and solder in the sockets, but if in the future you ever need to make the repair again, it will go much faster because then you won’t have to remove the D board to gain access to the bottom of the board and you won’t have to unsolder and re-solder the chip, just remove the old one from the socket and plug new one in. You can also do it one at a time so you can figure out which one failed not just replace them both. Because of the amount of labor associated with removing and installing the D board, it’s more economical from a time standpoint to replace them both when you have to do the soldering.

    15. ok. just got a tv for free. its a crt sony trinitron but a bit different from mine. mine is a sony wega..still a trinitron or whatever. but the one i just got is black. i got it for parts only thing wrong with it was the screen was fuzzy. anywho…i opened the back because i wanted to see if the “ic” chips were the same…they appear to be the same but im not sure because they have a different “ic” code on the d board. you said my sony was ic8002 and ic6501. the ic chips on my parts tv say ic1261 and ic3502. they appear to be the same thing though…do you think they will work?

    16. I have no experience with using these chips to fix a fuzzy picture and so I’m not sure it will help. I used the chips to fix the problem with the screen being completely blank, and the front panel LED blinking 6 or 7 times. If you do decide to give it a try, let us know if it works. Just make sure the chips have the same numbers printed on them as the ones you’re using to replace them.

    17. I have the exact problem with my sonywega KD-34XS955. Your fix matches my tv to the tee. I just got the parts and ready to install. Are the IC’s the same? Because they look the same, but ordered them using IC6501 and IC8002.

    18. Yes, they are the same type of IC. The numbers 6501 and 8002 are what are known as reference designators, to differentiate them on the PC board.

    19. My young neighbor just replaced the two IC’s
      Less then $20.00 for the IC’s and plugs on eBay.
      Gift card for my neighbor.
      Cheap fix.
      Thanks for the information
      PS This was on our Sony Wega Trinitron 40 Inch

    20. Plugs=Sockets
      Again Thank You for the information

    21. Thanks a ton. This worked wonders for my 32″ WEGA! No more blinking 7 lights or when it would intermittently work blinking 5 lights.

      Thank you again.

    22. My Sony WEGA has the same symptoms. My local tv repair man, from whom I bought this tv, told me that the likely problem was the picture tube, and that he MAY be able to fix the problem with a $211.00 kit that they must install at their shop, but was not going to guarantee how long it would last. He charged me a $55 service call to come to my house and tell me this, but says he couldn’t fix it at my house and recommended I either let him take it in (for an additional $100 service) or just buy a new tv from him and let him recycle this one. He obviously didn’t remember this was the same line he used on my 7 years earlier with another tv that was supposed to last me a life time which it too only lasted 7 years, and I let him take it in, only to find that he fixed it and put it in his “used items” show room. I told him I fell for this the first time, but I’m not buying another tv from him. Thank you for this post. You may have saved me at least $400.00 in repairs and further service calls, AND, I’ve ordered a new LED tv from someone else.

    23. This is #23. Successful repair! Can’t thank you enough for the pics – they really helped identify the ‘D’ board & the chips. I found it necessary to disconnect only the three cables at the rear of the board. The board can be rotated to stand up easily leaning against the ‘A’ board. There’s a plastic post on the base of the chassis which you can set the bottom of the board behind – perfect. I bought a 25 watt soldering iron & an anti-static solder sucker for board work. For newbies just make sure the pin is movable after you suck out the solder. They can’t be stuck or the chip won’t come out (they came out easily with a long thin pair of needle nose pliers). To prevent damage, you want to get the solder job done with a minimum amount of heat. I found it worked better to apply a small amount of solder to the tip of your iron to melt the solder around the pins quickly. I marked the unsoldered pin locations on the board with a red sharpie pen (also the board mounting screw holes to make it easier to locate them). There are nine screws. The one near the back edge is almost impossible to see. A magnetized phillips bit, such is common with power drill/drivers worked better than a stubby for me. I put a small socket on it for better grip. This screw and the cable next to it were the biggest hassle for me in this repair – I would recommend securing these first – that way if you have to remove the board for any reason due to problems with these two it’s a lot easier (I dropped the screw and it got wedged under other components and then I bent the pins on the small 5 or 6 pin connector and had to remove the board to straighten them). This tedious process requires an inspection mirror, flashlight and smaller hands. The four ‘drawbridge’ connectors were new to me, it took me a while to learn how to pop them up. This same interior edge of the board has some rigid plastic hold downs and I found tilting the board up at a 45 degree angle helped the edge slide into them easily. The cabinet cover also was a hassle getting it to seat properly so all the srews could be installed. I started at the top. Be sure the cover’s bottom lip slides into the groove around the base of the chassis. This seemed to help a little bit, but it was still a fight. The successful repair made the effort worthwhile! Even with the new tools, I estimate the cost was about $70. BTW, use a tip cleaning sponge and clean your tip frequently to prevent excess solder from getting on other components or causing problems.

    24. Hi Wayne, This is a very inspirational comment. I can’t believe you learned to unsolder/solder to make this repair. Your advice is spot on. I’ve been soldering for 40 years, and so I forget the tips you learn along the way, but your comment covers many of them, like minimizing the heat, adding solder to the iron, cleaning sponge, and making sure you can wiggle the pin with needle nose pliers after the solder is removed. If there is just a tiny bit of solder left, you need to break it by wiggling each pin and then the chip will come out. Those are very useful de-soldering tips. Hope you get to use your new-found skills again. Maybe you should take up electronics as a hobby :-).

    25. Thanks for this Sony 7 blink repair self help. I got the MCZ3001DB chips and sockets for $17 on ebay. The hardest part was disconnecting the circuit board connectors. I was surprised how easy it was to remove and replace the ICs with a solder remover and a 45W pencil solder iron. My TV is working again with only a couple of hours work. The TV I fixed is a Sony KD-34XS955. Great writeup!

    26. this is an outstanding article, i will call it my savior at this point because i now suffer the same issues with my 7 year old television and this is by far the best description of repair on the internet. i have never soldered before, so i’m doing as much research as i can before i attempt. any recommendations on things to look for in a soldering iron. i figure at this point i don’t have anything to lose and i am pretty handy with most things. thanks in advance for any advice

    27. No dice. Had a 6 blink code on my KV-32hs510. Followed instructions and replaced chips as instructed. Now it just tries to come on, blinks three times and turns itself back off.

    28. I am bummed!! This REALLY works! My hopes for a new flat screen tv HDTV were dashed as my Husband fixed our Sony Wega that had 7 flashing lights after using this website! Total cost?…$17!! Thank you :)

    29. just got the light bulb line from a repair shop today?

    30. i was wanting to remove the d board and have someone experienced solder in the ic chips, couldnt i just cut the the power wires 2 red and one white and solder them back and use heat shrink when reassembling. i wanted to make sure there isnt a shield used inside the wires insulation or something that might be damaged. are those 3 wires just wires that can be cut?

      also i was looking at the blink codes and for 6 blinks it mentions to check c515,c516 and the jungle IC, IC206 any thoughts.

      i have to order the parts and noticed some people needed capacitors for a similar problem. so as cheap as the parts are, if its common i would like to replace them all at the same time. thanks for the great info and pictures.

    31. Lee,
      Wanted to let you know that replacing the two chips has fixed my 6-7 blinking light issue as well. You are probably the only person on the web who put up a nice guide on how to replace these chips… with pictures!!
      You’re a life savor. You probably saved us $1000 in buying a new TV.
      It’s funny, if this problem happened in a car, there would have been a recall. I’m going to think twice about buying another Sony product.
      Thanks again, Lee.

      P.S. I have a 40″ kv-40xbr800. Although I had more screws to take off, your solution was spot on.

    32. Add another success log to the fire. Thank you for the great walk-through. This problem is apparently so common that you can order a pair of these chips on Amazon.com.

    33. Lee, I have to add my voice to all the others thanking you for this fix. My 7 year old KV-34HS420 came up with the flashing light failure last week.

      This had happened before, after the set was only a month old. Sony provided a entire new board but I had to pay a local shop to install it.

      So, obviously, it’s a known issue with Sony, but I had no hope they would fix it again after 7 years.

      Long story short: I ordered the circuits and sockets on eBay (B&D Enterprises – $16.25, free shipping). Ordered a soldering kit meant for teaching kids to solder electronics and a solder sucker on Amazon. Total for everything:$40.13.

      Yesterday I spent learning to solder — never did it before. Today I followed this thread (have to tip a hat to Wayne for his additional comments about accessing that one stubborn screw, which connectors need to be pulled, and those very fine soldering tips). Just finished up and powered on.

      It works!

      You saved me a lot of money, but more than that we saved what is really a good TV with a great picture from leaving here and going who knows where.

      Thank you sir(s). I owe you.

    34. Hi, I was encouraged to try and fix my Sony tv myself by reading your helpful information. I made the bad mistake of not leaving the two pins on the connector unsoldered!! I realized this when I plugged it in to see if I fixed it and saw it blinking 10 times. I guess I have to de-solder the connector and do it all over again. When I originally did it, I found it very difficult to get rid of the first solder. I was using a regular cheap solder tool from Radio Shack and some copper wire. Would it be much easier with a tool specifically for de-soldering? Also, how do I know which two pins on the new connector to leave unsoldered now that I messed it up? Is there a visual anywhere I can use? My Sony model # is KP51WS520. Thanks!

    35. Lee, it worked for me as well. Any idea how long it will work. Has anyone experienced a repeat failure? Please advise. Thanks.

    36. The spring loaded solder sucker is a requirement, in my opinion, other techniques for doing it don’t work as well. Solder braid just doesn’t get the solder out of the holes and the rubber bulb-style solder suckers don’t work at all in my experience. The pins that are unsoldered are pins 17 and 13. I don’t know if that’s what’s causing the issue you have, but I’d remove the solder from those pins and see if it fixes it. The image on my website shows the pins that are not soldered.

    37. I see that you put in new sockets?? Doesnt the T.V already come with sockets? How do you install the new ones and why can’t you just use the stock one??

    38. Nvm I understand now! I will be doing this myself in the next 2 weeks! Thanks so much for the info your seriously my hero of the day.. cheers!

    39. The original chips are soldered to the board. I installed the sockets in case they ever go bad again.

    40. Lee Thanks so very much for posting this blog. What a resourse to provide given the very expensive alternative.
      I have little experience with soldering but have found some resourses online that I believe I can follow.
      I am trying to decipher if you/others have soldered the sockets to the board while upright. Won’t the solder run without the D board lying “flat”? Will the desolder not be more successful in the horizontal position also ? Wayne seems to suggest that only 3 cables at the rear needed to be disconnected…a the rear of the set I assume.

    41. At the rear of the D board (I should have said), as referenced to the rear of the TV, I assume?

    42. If you can get the board out by disconnecting all of the cables, then it might be easier to do the unsoldering/soldering by laying the board horizontal. I thought about it for a while, and then I figured I could do the soldering with the board standing somewhat upright, and so I did it that way.

    43. Lee,

      Thank you so much for posting this great tutorial!

      You’ve helped save another Sony Wega ( KV34HS510 ) from the landfill.

      I wound up spending about $50.00 on the repair, and learned how to solder in the process. A friend of mine gave me an old ethernet card to practice on (which is a good idea if your skills are suspect), and of course, i found several tutorials on the web showing how to solder/de-solder. The hardest part by far was the de-soldering. I found the most important part of the de-soldering process was to first *solder* the connections so that the old solder was mixed with the new solder. It was then pretty easy to suck out the molten mix and leave a clean hole. There were a few holes which i had to re-solder about 4 times before i got them cleaned out properly; patience is a virtue! (a magnifying glass is very helpful for making sure the holes are cleaned out properly).

      At any rate, I’m very gratefull for the excellent tutorial.

    44. hello, lee

      we have had are tv for a couple of years. we purchased it used. yet weith a family of 6 r not in the possision to purchase a new tv. first i would like to say thank u for the the blog on ur web site. are tv went out about two weeks ago. in searching the web i came across this wery helpful info you laid out step by step. i ordered the parts from tsm and as u said two days. as well as the parts at radio schack for 59 cents a piece so for less than $21.00 we now have a working tv.with the help of our great neighbor with a solder sucker and experience in soldering.so thanks be to God our neighbor and the info u provided do to ur tv problems. greatly appriceate it.r tv had the same prob. u discribe of urs. thanks, to God be the glory great things he hath done!

    45. Just got back from IRAQ and the darn TV KV-36HS420 is showing the 6 flashing light thingy. I’m going to buy the chips and make this a project. NOV 16 2011. Wish me luck!

    46. i had posted above about removing the board by cutting the wires and found other info that stated others had cut the smaller red and white wires and removing the large red wire from the glass as show in the pictures above (caution high voltage) you will need to be real careful on how you repair the smaller red wire because it also is high voltage.

      i had the 2 ic chips replaced along with the two large capacitors in the same area. they are recommended on the site lee recommended for ordering the chips. the tv has been working for a week now with no problems.

      thanks lee.

    47. I posted about a week ago about trying to replace the IC piece along with the socket, but then I made the mistake of soldering the # 13 and 17 pins. I desoldered those two pins, still didn’t work, so I replaced the socket with a new one to start over. I’m assuming I wasn’t careful enough with my soldering and messed something else up, because now it is blinking 10 times. I’m wondering if I should just try to find a new/rebuilt D board. Any suggestions? Thanks.

    48. Hi Jo, There’s no guarantee that this fix works for everyone who experiences the 6 or 7 blink code so it is hard to say if the soldering induced the problem that now makes it blink 10 times, or if it was a different problem to begin with. If you search around the web for explanations of the blink codes, they are not very helpful in pinpointing where the problem resides. In fact, the 6 or 7 blink code is never mentioned in conjunction with this description of blink codes, which I assume came from a Sony manual. However, it does mention that a 10 blink code is likely related to the ‘D’ board.

    49. Modus link (formerly PTS) says they will repair the D board for about $110 plus shipping. I guess that’s probably the best way to go if I want to keep working on this TV. There’s also a possibility that I did some damage to the board, and then they can’t fix it. I am seriously considering just buying a new TV for a couple of hundred more. It was worth a try, plus I learned some things about circuit boards and soldering. Thanks for your help.

    50. Thanks for the information provided here on your website. Replacing the 2 MCZ3001D with chips purchased on Amazon.com fixed my Sony kv40xbr800 from its 6-blink problem. The pictures provided were a valuable resource. Saved me major $$$$ just in time for the holidays! Thanks for your post.

    51. This fixed my 6 year old Sony. We like the TV so much the kids are getting the flat screen I purchased while debating to fix or recycle. I had removed the back and then found your website. Your descriptions and pictures were right on. Cost $20 for ICs and sockets.

    52. I’ve been at the screw underneath the tube for a couple hours. Can’t find a stubby enough screwdriver and can’t get a good enough grip on a bit. No bit+socket combination I use will fit. Kind of driving me crazy here. Tried to make a handle on a bit using Gorilla Tape but even that isn’t working. That screw is in there something fierce. Might have to call the whole thing off due to that one screw.

    53. Welp, I stuck with it and finally managed to get that demon screw out. Ended up sticking a bit in the screw and then grabbing that with pliers. That let me unscrew the screw SLOWLY as there was hardly enough room in there to turn the pliers.

      The black bridges that connect the D board to the adjacent board gave me a lot of trouble as well. I could snap up the middle two by hand but the outer two were a pain. Used a small wrench and stuck the lip of the wrench under the lip of the bridges and then just pushed the wrench down, giving me some leverage action that popped up the bridges.

      Compared to getting the D board out, soldering was a breeze, and that was only my second time ever soldering. (I practiced a few days ago on some IC chips in an old boom box.)

      In all honesty, for somebody who has ZERO experience with this kind of stuff, this project was REALLY DAMN HARD. The area in and around the D board is small and cramped and full of connectors and capacitors and cables and that makes it extremely difficult to maneuver around in there, especially for somebody with large hands like myself. Hell, just getting the new ICs into the sockets I soldered in was difficult.

      That being said, it did work. My TV powered on just like it used to. A TV repairman I spoke to wanted $120 just to look at the TV, and people who have had this repaired professionaly have reported spending between $200 and $300. Soldering equipment (iron, solder wire, small bit, sucker) cost me around $60 and the new ICs and sockets came to a total of less than $20.

      My hands hurt, I have a large blister on my thumb, and it took me nearly 6 hours. But at least I saved some money I guess.

    54. Congratulations on sticking with it and fixing your TV yourself. I sometimes have concerns about taking on a repair project out of fear that I’ll be sorry for the amount of time and effort it took to complete it, or that I won’t be successful at it. But the more challenges I overcome in a repair job, the more I end up appreciating the results in the end. The screw under the tube, situated between two connectors, is quite a challenge, and it almost caused me to give up too. I don’t recall what tool eventually freed it, but I remember the relief when it finally started turning. I had to think twice about re-installing it :-).

    55. Thank you very much for this tutorial, just finished installing the same kit as you… Seems to be working fine so far!!!

      I paid over @2200 for this TV back in 2004, I glad to still use it till this day. As a matter of fact I bought another identical one off of craigslist for @125 :) while I was waiting for the IC modules to arrive.

    56. hello larry really good job and it seems to be quite humanitarion as many people as youve helped!if i understand correctly this fix is quite contrary to the recommended fix when my 2003 sony kv-34drc510 televisions standby light blinks 6 then 7 times!!! it says h stop no raster blah blah blah and to check c515 and 516 and ic 206 that bieng said this fix doesnt seemto address either of those components. why does it work and is the self diognosis erroneous_ and do you think the same procedure will fix my tv_ thank you very much for your help Brian

    57. I also read through the Sony documentation for interpreting blink codes and found it of no use in fixing this problem. The only reason I could think of is that the diagnostics codes and fixes were written back when this TV was new, and no one at Sony ever imagined these chips would fail in the field. The chips must have either a manufacturing defect that causes them to fail prematurely, or it’s possible they are overstressed in this application which could also cause early failure. There is absolutely no documentation on these chips on line that I could find so we may never know the true root cause.

    58. thanks lee and by reading youre post and the comments that are givin this seems to fix about 95% of the sony tv that exhibit the 6 then 7 flash symptom. what do you think should i give it a try_ oh and by the way i live in cancun mexico my sony was made in tijuana are their parts available here! thanks again lee you should get some kind of award for youre excellent tutoriol! Brian

    59. Hi,

      I got board out but can I disconnect those 3 wires to completely remove it (from big area towards outside of board)? I have not figured out how to get those 3 wires (2 red and 1 white)out so can remove board complete. Is that possible? Let me know. Help has been great so far!!! Thanks LEE!!!

    60. I had a difficult time trying to figure out how to disconnect those 3 wires, so I left them attached and just fixed the board in place.

    61. I discoonnected “everything”, took the back of the t.v off gently vacuumed everything. then I noticed c515 was bent so I straighten it. Put everything back together was about to call repair place. I Figured I try turning it on, and the thing worked. My husband is mad he wanted a 50″ flat screen like all the nieghbors. He should of married a helpless house wife.

    62. Simple fix. Great instructions! We were able to follow the pictures, get the parts and fix the TV ourselves. My boyfriend is a carpenter, and had never done anything like this before, I had the experience so I let him learn on his own and was handy if he got in trouble. We fixed it for under $20.00, the most time consuming part was using a wick instead of a solderpult to remove the solder. Thank you, you saved us a lot of money in a bad economy. TV works like new again. It is cured!!!

    63. This fix worked brilliantly for my Sony KV-34XBR800 as well! Thanks so much for sharing – you’ve clearly saved a lot of people (including me) a lot of money! My experience ordering from Tristate Module was also very good – super-quick order turnaround and fast shipping. On their website, the list of TVs using the IC you specify (MCZ3001DB) does not include the KV-34XBR800 for some reason, but I can confirm that this is also the correct part for that TV.

    64. I just finished repair and put in 18 dip pin socket. Hopefully I did it right, I have never de-soldered or soldered before and was in tight space, but looked OK and hoping for best. I then ordered Chips from site above, was easy and used paypal, once they get here I am hoping is fixed. I will keep my fingers crossed!!! All put back together just waiting to pop chips on and see if works. Only cost $40 for everything, tools and chips, used cheap solder iron, manual solder sucker, pins, and solder from Radio Shack and that was only $20, then $19 for chips shipped and a couple hours of my time. I did use you tube to check out soldering and de-soldering training. Will let all know if works here in MN!!! THanks

    65. Another electronics first timer, another successful repair. Took about 2 hours plus many more researching and rounding up equipment, messing around with the solder and iron…

      Here’s my tip:

      With the TV back removed, the base housing can slip out of position. When it slips, it’s possible that the plunger on the power button won’t reach the the board-mounted power switch.

      When I smoke-tested my repair the TV wouldn’t come on. I thought I had failed. Then found that I could turn on the TV with the remote. Finally I discovered the board under the picture tube containing the switches was out of position.

      In short, if your TV won’t start after the repair but befor assembly, try the remote and suspect misalignment of the base.

    66. Lee, Thanks for the article. You should write technical documentation. I haven’t done it yet, but will be doing it soon. I have the same model and it is starting to work sometimes and mostly not. I used to work in electronics all the time and this was the article I was looking for. It’s a great tv and similar you, I got mine in 10/04 only because at the time it was the only one then that had 1080 and the flat panels then at 1080 were like 3-6000. And the blacks were terrible. I love this tv. I am a NASA certified solderer so I’ll just use braid as I’m really comfortable with it. You rock! Great technote.

    67. [...] http://k0lee.com/2011/05/fixing-a-sony-wega-with-6-or-7-blink-code/ [...]

    68. [...] For information on the Sony Wega CRT flat CRTs with a similar problem (in this case a model KV34HS420), visit Lee Devlin website and view his posting titled “Fixing a Sony Wega with a 6 or 7 blink code“. [...]

    69. I have a Sony KV32HS510 that has the same problem described here and plan to replace the two ICs.

      There is a note on the Tri-State Module site that suggests replacing a couple of fusible resistors and caps along with the ICs.

      -Replacement of the following parts along with the MCZ3001DB IC’s is recommended
      -.1 Ohm 1/2W Fusible resistor (2 per board). Order 120293361
      -1200uF 250V Electrolytic capacitor (2 per board). Order 1200UF250V

      What’s the consensus on replacing these other components? Worthwhile or a waste of time.

      Thanks,

    70. There have been quite a few responses to this posting and so far no one has posted that those parts were needed. However, there have been a few reports where the MCZ3001DB chips didn’t fix the issue, and so it could be possible that those other parts were the culprits. If they don’t cost too much, then it might be worth ordering them, replacing the MCZ3001DBs first and see if that takes care of it. It’s possible that Tri-State knows that the chips take care of 95% of the issues, and if that doesn’t work then for the other 5%, the resistors or capacitors fix the problem. I don’t know what the real ratio is, but this is my guess.

    71. Hi Lee – I wish I had come across your web site a few days ago – or even a year ago. I bought a used 42″ WEGA about 18 months ago – a few months after I bought it I got the blinking light and auto shut down – intermittent at first, and then it wouldn’t come on at all. A technician diagnosed a burnt out bulb and I drove 2 hrs to Toronto to get a replacement (after market, $120 plus tax). The TV has an exceptional picture and I thought it was well worth the cost to keep it going – plus I hate to landfill equipment (which is also part of why I prefer to buy used). Then, 11 months later, just a few days ago, the blinking light syndrome re-appeared. I blamed it on the non-OEM bulb and went back to Toronto, bulb and case in hand and bought a new OEM bulb ($140 plus taxes). I got one day out of the new bulb and the light started blinking and auto shutting down again. You can imagine my anguish. Now it wont power up for more than a couple minutes. Until I read your article, I was sure the tech had sold me a defective bulb. After reading the above blog, I am pretty sure this is the classic 6 blink tech problem with the chip set and I have needlessly changed the bulb – perhaps even twice. I’ll look for parts next week, try the fix you suggested and let you know. Thanks again for such an excellent article, pics and very complete instruction – a great service. Cheers and have a great new year!

    72. Thank you, Lee, for your detailed posting. You inspired me to repair my KD-34XBR960.

      I had trouble determining how to un-couple the A-board to D-board interconnects, so here is a description for the similarly afflicted. These devices hinge on the A-board side. They snap into détentes at either side of the D-board companion sockets. Use a chopstick or other small rod to lever each side of the connector up on the D-board side.

      Regarding the D-board screw under the monitor: I used a 1/4″ socket with 1/4″ drive socket handle and a 2″ reversible (phillips and straight) screw gun bit. This worked very well.

      In my research about this failure I had the opportunity to consult with a Sony trained repair technician. He insisted that all that needed replacing was IC8002 – the one closest to the flyback transformer (the thing with the fat wires). I took his advice and am grateful as it saved significant time and risk.

      I also used Tri-State Module for parts and got my DIP18 sockets there as well.

      The Sony users community owes you a great debt, Mr. Devlin. Thank you for your fine, well-detailed work and clear communications.

    73. Well, same issue. A beautiful Sony television that would not turn on. After searching the Internet, the consensus was one of these chip might be responsible.

      I followed the instructions and am happy to say the replacements of these chips fixed the problem.

      GREAT INSTRUCTIONS AND THANK YOU…..

    74. Regarding recommendation to replace resistors and capacitors:

      I found that one of my capacitors was swollen at the top which seemed to indicate a bad capacitor (maybe in turn damaged a chip(s)?). Considering the low cost, I bought two and replaced them both.

      Worthwhile or waste of money? Did it help? I dunno, something did and they were alot easier to remove and replace than the chips.

      Capacitors store voltage. Be careful. Observe markings/polarity.

    75. Good article. I had the issue with the “7 flashes.” This occurred once before with this TV about 5 years ago, and I had a repairman in to the tune of about $600, where he replaced my power supply (the ‘D’ board) with another, which apparently had been “reworked.”

      I followed your instructions, bought the two ICs from the source you linked to for less that $20 including shipping.

      Since I am an EE, I happened to have a solder station at home with a vacuum “solder sucker” on its second channel, so it made removing the old solder a breeze, and the chips nearly fell out.

      Not sure how you get the ‘D’ board being attached with 8 screws because there were none in mine. Just a couple plastic clips to unlatch to free up the board. I followed your advice about manuevering the board to repair it without removing any of the high-voltage cables, and that worked well.

      I did notice that on the “reworked” board, the two chips had been previously replaced, and the soldering job was pretty sloppy, with a lot of burned resin left behind. Its a wonder that there were no solder bridges on the original repair.

      I put in the new chips and everything went well. TV started right up with no problems when testing before putting the back cover on. Its been playing fine ever since. Thanks for your article. It made the disassembly and re-assembly go smoothly as if I had had to do it the first time I would never have figured out how to get the back off without damage.

      The hard part was getting the clip out that holds the base of the back to the stand.

    76. Excellent pictures and detailed instructions. I was very nervous about my ability to repair a circuit board. The desoldering took a bit of time (maybe a little over an hour). Probably have 4 hours in start to finish and maybe $40 in parts and materials. Television now works like new and my wife can’t believe I fixed it. The sockets were a great idea to avoid desoldering if this repair is needed in the future. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experiences with fixing this TV. Saved me from buying a new one!

    77. Roberta Dikeman

      This is new to me, but I’ll try it. Do I need to solder the replacement chips to the D board or just “put them in”?

    78. Roberta Dikeman

      Also – do you buy two different chips or two of the same one?

    79. Hi Roberta, Both chips are the same part number. To install them, you will need to unsolder the chips from the D board first. I would highly recommend soldering in sockets after that, just in case you need to do the repair in the future. If you choose not to install the sockets, then you just solder in the replacement chips.

    80. Roberta Dikeman

      Lee,
      you have been very helpful, but can you tell me what a socket is? Perhaps a picture or a part number? I can go to radio shack, but I not sure I know what to ask for

    81. Hi Roberta, I’ve updated the original post to show a picture of a DIP socket. The RadioShack catalog number (276-1992) can be seen here.

    82. Anyone have a 42″ Trinitron KV-40XBR700 that’s completed this repair? Getting this D board out looks like it’s going to be pretty rough to do.

    83. Mike Bonczkowski

      Thanks A TON! This how-to was exactly what I needed. Super easy after reading this. I was so happy with myself after fixing my tv.

    84. I got it apart… mine’s composed of 2 “D” boards, and one chip on each board. Now to get the new chips and install them. Hopefully I can get everything back together. :)

    85. I’m sorry to say Lee, this did not fix my TV. I have the same model you repaired. I am no scholar at soldering but I am confident that everything was done correctly. All joints look neat and all connectors are connected. Now I get three blinks and the TV powers off. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

    86. Hi Elwood, Sorry to hear that the chips didn’t fix the problem. When I was researching this issue, changing these chips seemed to fix it more often than not, but there were reports that it sometimes did not work. However, I did not find any other fixes that worked when this one failed during my research. In a previous comment, someone reported that TriState’s web site which is linked to the article recommended a few other parts to purchase which were some fusible resistors and electrolytic capacitors (about another $20), but I cannot speak to the efficacy of changing those parts, nor do I know where they are located on the board. Another option is to purchase an entire D-board.

    87. How do the connectors flip up that connect this board to the adjacent one.

    88. They rotate up 90 degrees. You have to give them a good tug to unlatch them but they will rotate about the axis that is parallel with the gap between the boards. The side toward the D board is the part that unlatches. The connector is soldered to the other board.

    89. Well my 8 year old 36″ Sony Trinitron started acting up a couple of weeks ago. It would not turn on the first time but would on the second try. Finally it would not turn on at all and the standby LED was blinking six times. A call to Sony had me unplugging it and plugging it back in with no change. They referred me two TV repair services. A little internet search led me to this sight and i thought I’d give it try. A little over $20. later for the ICs and sockets and my TV is working again. Too bad my wife and bought that 55″ flat screen this last weekend, just in time for the Super Bowl. My Sony might go on Craigslist this weekend since we don’t any place in the house for it. Thanks Lee for the excellent explanation on how to fix this problem.
      I read your motorcycle site and and your motorcycle history almost parallels mine. I started out on dirt bikes in high school in the early 70′s and now i am into almost 20 years and on my 3rd BMW, a K1200GT. They are great bikes. If your are ever in the Seattle area, look me up.
      Ron

    90. Thanks. I did get the connectors apart as you reccommended. However, as you said there was no guarentee this is the problem. Replaced both ICs and unforunately it still shuts off and blinks. So… off to best buy or Sams Club we go. Great instruction though and I gave it a valiant effort. Good luck to everyone else.

    91. Thanks for the info. I made the fix and it worked for about 30 min., then shut itself off again and started blinking 7 times again.
      Anyone have this problem also?

    92. I have the exact Sony TV model and error code. I purchased the TV around 2005. About 2.5 years ago our TV started having this problem and I decided I was going to try and fix this myself. Meanwhile we purchased an LCD TV. I was able to get the schematics and some information off the internet about where the problem might be. When I read about the high voltages in the TV it scared me and I decided not to try this project. After 2.5 years of this TV in the garage I decided I would look into it again. I then I found your web site and I went for it. I completed the job this last weekend and you now have another success story. Thank you so much for this article. Total expenses was $40, including the soldering iron and solder sucker. In regards to the “drawbridge” connectors, there are four connectors. The two towards the back looked like it would be difficult to get to. I then noticed there was a slot in the plastic housing that allowed me to use a long screw driver to access the connectors. The screwdriver went underneath the connectors and I just pushed up and the connectors popped off. It was very easy. It appears that the slot was made for this purpose. The one screw located near the picture tube was the hardest for me to remove. From a prior posting I used a small screw bit and pliers to rotate the bit to remove the screw. I only had to disconnect three small cables in order for me to get the PCB board out. Also, I took several photos’ with my 14M pixel camera of the entire set-up that allowed me to study the project prior to starting. This allowed me to zoom in on portions of the board. I hope my experience added to this project. Thanks again from Austin, TX.

    93. Thank you for all the good instructions. I think I may have to make this repair soon. I have a KV34HS510. It still works but when I turn it on, I get the black screen with the 6 blink code. If I use the remote, it takes 2 or 3 tries but it does come on and works flawlessly after that. I have 2 questions: are the chips the same in the 510 as in the 420? If I can, I would like to buy the chips now in anticipation that the TV won’t come on soon. I don’t want to take it all apart yet if I don’t have to. The other question is, has anyone had this happen gradually like mine? Thanks!

    94. Great Post! I actually have two of these TVs both went out within weeks of each other. Both purchased in 2005. I’m waiting on the ICs to come in the mail and in the meantime I installed the sockets. Question: are the sockets directional? Do the notches on the sockets have to line up with the notches on the chips?

      I found the ICs at the following site for $5.99, http://www.suburban-electronics.com/display/MCZ3001DB/MCZ3001DB?gclid=CLHxs8TXha4CFRJR7Aody3eW6A

    95. The sockets are not directional. Good luck.

    96. DIP sockets are not directional, but if they have a notch in them, it’s a good idea to line it up with the notch on the silkscreen on the board so that anyone trying to replace the chip in the future will know which end is which. The socket has the potential to cover the silkscreen and so you might not be able to see it once the socket is in place so if you see a notch, line it up.

      I also got a tip that the pins on the sockets that are not soldered to the board should be broken off. Apparently, these pins that are not supposed to be soldered should not be allowed to short to the board and breaking off those pins would assure that won’t happen.

    97. awesome DIY!!!

      I am going to try the fix on my Sony kv-32hs500

      I have 2 questions.

      1st, what type of soldering tool do you recommend?

      what type of solder do I use?

    98. A 30-watt pencil-type soldering iron would work fine. For solder, a lead tin mix, NOT the acid core solder used in plumbing. Radio Shack sells a kit with the soldering iron, a few tools, and some solder for $10. They also sell a spring-loaded soldering tool for $15.

    99. I tried this fix on the Sony kd-34xbr960, but it didn’t work. Not sure why, given the positive results of others. It no longer blinks 6 or 7 times, but rather 3 times and then nothing. For anyone interested, the plastic chassis that the d-board is attached to slides out and makes it easier to access the difficult screw. There are 2 gray colored plastic tabs on the right and left side which lift up to allow this to happen. I was also able to detach all wires from the CRT. I found the service manual for this Sony model at http://www.schematicsforfree.com/archive/file/Sony/Video/Sony%20Kd34Xbr960.pdf.

    100. Add me to the it’s fixed list!I bought my kv-32hs510 for $70.00 to replace my stolen Toshiba 40″ LCD.After about a month it quit working and I found this website.I bought the IC’s and sockets,dusted off the soldering iron and am watching TV again.Great instructions!

    101. Fixed! Thanks again. My KV34HS510 finally died. It was taking 3 or 4 tries to get it turned for about two weeks. The other day I ordered the two ic chips and sockets on amazon for $17. The next day the TV wouldn’t turn on. I did a lot of research about the shock hazard so I left it unplugged overnight then I discharged the CRT with a screwdriver and ground wire. It didn’t make the pop sound like I read so I figure it discharged on its own. I was lucky enough to have a friend with a soldering iron/solder sucker. It only took me about five minutes to remove the solder from both chips and they literally fell out with slight pressure on the pins. I highly suggest this tool. The new sockets and chips went in with ease and my TV works perfectly.

    102. ok…followed the instructions and replaced both integrated circuits, but, wah wah, nothing…the TV only made a noise like it wanted to go on, but DID not turn on…sooo, I followed the wife’s advice, and checked ALL the connections, and also re-read all the posts..I read where the 2 pins on the IC’s DO NOT get soldered onto the board…
      I re-checked the soldering, and noticed a bit of solder on one of the socket pins…I initially mistakenly tried to solder the pins on the first socket and realized this was a NO NO..
      So, i reheated the pin which had some solder on it, and used the solder vacuum tool (got mine at radio shack, it was $15 but is worth it, it works well and is made of alumimum. seems to be high quality) to vacuum out any residual solder…IF I had to do it all over again I would have just clipped the pins…
      2ndly, I re checked ALL the connections..one of the connections at the rear of the D board closest to the tube is a white in color horizontal connector about an inch long..I removed it and tried to re-seat it..I had a hard time re-seating it, but my wife managed after about 5 minutes..lastly, there is a tray that slides out the circuit boards..make certain that it is pushed all the way in…
      I tried it again, and VOILA! it works now!! thanks Lee!!
      on a side note, has anyone tried the fix, only to not work, and then installed these and THEN the TV worked??

      -.1 Ohm 1/2W Fusible resistor (2 per board). Order 120293361

      -1200uF 250V Electrolytic capacitor (2 per board). Order 1200UF250V

      they were recommended on the tri state module site

    103. Hi,
      I did the repair and when I put it pack to gether it didn’t work either. I took it all all apart to look at the solder joints again, and then put it all back to gether and it works fine. Lesson make sure all the connectors are seated securely, make sure you didn’t bend any pins. And on the connectors that rotate up, make sure all four are clicked down into place.

      Hope that helps.

    104. Why when replacing the ICs do you have to replace the base? why not just replace the plug in IC and not bother with the Soldering in a new Base, thus not having to do soldering

      J

    105. By ‘the base’ I assume you mean the socket? It’s because the chips normally don’t have sockets, they are soldered directly to the board. Adding a socket would make the replacement of the chips much easier if it needed to be done again. If you see sockets in yours, then maybe you have a board that has already been repaired.

    106. I am getting a lot of questions about these extra parts. I assume that sometimes the ICs fail due to a failed capacitor which may also lead to a failed fusible resistor. So evidently, TriState is doing a belt-and-spenders approach and selling all of the parts at once to take care of the situation where one or more components is faulty. Most people only need to replace the ICs to get the TV working again, but if that doesn’t work, then you may also need the capacitors and resistors. They cost about $20 more than just buying the ICs.

      The unsoldered pins must definitely be left unsoldered. In one email exchange, someone told me that the Sony tech recommended cutting those pins off of the socket at pins 13 and 17 so as not to short them to the PC board.

    107. ICs from Surburbon Electronics 5.99. They came in printed with part numder and manufacturer upside down, opposite from the notch. Could they be bootleg?

    108. Add another success story to the list! Thank you so much so taking the time to post your TV repair experience on the ‘Net. You saved yet another Sony Wega TV (Model KV34HS420) from the landfill. I was not thinking that I could handle this repair until I started reading posts of everyone’s success. I have to admit it was a difficult but rewarding repair process. Here are a couple of things that I did that may work for other brave souls: I used one of those small 4″ long mini LED flashlights and placed it in the empty space in front of the D-board underneath the CRT. It provided great light as I removed the dreaded forward screw. It also helped to locate the other screws and connectors. To remove the forward screw I used one of those short offset phillps-head screwdrivers. I could only turn it about quarter-turn each time but eventually it came out. Needless to say it didn’t get put back. Not being a soldering expert, I strugged in this step. As I continued I got the hang of it. Thanks again!

    109. Thank you Lee! I had a 7-blink code issue. Count me in as a very appreciative consumer of your information.

      I had never worked on a circuit board before so I viewed a few videos on Youtube. I was schooled on de-soldering with a solder remover and soldering components on a board.

      I did use the Radio Shack kit for 10 dollars. That kit had a soldering iron, solder and some other cleaning tools for removing extra solder.

      I used chips from B&D that came with the sockets and I ordered a solder remover for a few dollars on Ebay. Free shipping on both.

    110. Thank you for putting up this info. I helped my Dad with the repair and the tv works as new! $10 for the parts and 2hrs labor – not a bad way to spend an afternoon.

    111. Thanks for posting this. I just fixed my KD-34XBR960 using your post. It only cost me $20 in parts and supplies, saving me over $500 to replace this TV. Much appreciated.

    112. There are two clips at the front of the of the base that the D boards are mounted on if you release them it lets the whole thing slide back solving the stubby screwdriver problem.

    113. mike from evansville

      Another success Lee.Saved the best tv i ever owned,kv34hs510.Altough i did get to buy a pretty good plasma just in case it didnt work. thank you so much!!!!!!!!

    114. 01. Before I forget, of course, thank you for this superb original posting plus all the helpful additional comments over the years.

      02. Maybe I am just lucky, or unlucky, depending upon your point of view. My KV-32XBR400 just died with the aforesaid symptoms. [At least I think they are the same, but who can tell whether a LED is blinking 5, 5.5 or 6 times when you have tears in your eyes anyway?] After several hours of getting to the point where I can examine the back of the D card in my set, I find that the two reference designators are not located on my board in the positions shown in the diagram. Reference designator 8002 seems to be about where it was in your case, but 6501 is more than six inches away, on the other half of the board, and positioned in a very difficult place to work because of some heat fins around it.

      That said, the two ICs are the same, but perhaps earlier versions; mine are Shindengen MCZ300 1D [without the trailing B]. It probably also is indicative that all the connectors on my ICs are soldered — even pins 13 and 17.

      03. So the reason I may be considered lucky is that I now see that my set was manufactured in September, 2000 — so I had great, trouble-free enjoyment for close to a dozen years.

      04. Having put the hours into getting this far — after paying two local lads twenty dollars just to get it off the shelf and down the stairs to where I could scoot it around — my real intention in trying to repair it was simply that it is a great set for community use. Unlike the new technology, this one was viewable, with good stereo sound for five to six folks sitting within 10-13 feet. So, if I could make it work, I could get some more strapping youths to transport it to some facility where it might still provide some years of use.

      05. Now, I know that I could never effect the repairs by myself and the repair industry pricing would make it impractical to get a qualified electrician to try to complete the work, I am writing this to see if anyone wants any of the circuit boards, components or even the elaborate speaker sub-system. Given the interest this thread has generated, it seems like there must be something in the pile on my living room floor that would be useful to someone!

    115. SAME exact problem but my tv Died in 1 yr. I search the web about 1 time a yr looking for an answer to the 6-7 flashers. 2day I decided to changeup my search technique and googled “sony big tube 6 and 7 lights” (can u believe that hit a home run? and here I am!)

      That bulky 200lb is nearly impossible to move so there it sat for years pissing me off.

      Thanks..

      I am ordering the parts and fixing it ASAP!

      Thanks

      LARRRRRY

    116. Awesome page! Was able to save my television for 15 measly dollars, couldn’t have done it without your great instructions and information. Television is working again! :D

    117. TV repair virgin

      I too have done battle with the stubby screw…it was hard fought and there was some cursing but victory was mine. I thought my problems were over. But now I’m stuck because that inch long white connector and his little brother next door do not want to come out and it’s hard to get my hand in position to get good leverage. Any suggestions, tools, and or techniques to get this solved and moving forward again? My family is staring at me…

    118. Lee, I made the repair, but now the tv picture is very dark and all letters and pictures are blurry. Any thoughts on what went wrong??

      I’m happy it turns on, but need to figure out how to get the picture back.

      Thanks,
      Ed

    119. THIS ACTUALLY WORKS! I am no expert at soldering. I took an electronics class in high school 12 year ago, but I was still able to complete this fix. I was very skeptical, but it was definitely worth a shot, as even with the soldering gear this fix only cost me about $35.00. So happy to have my TV back. Thank you so much.

    120. Chalk up another repaired Sony success story! Many thanks to Lee Devlin and other commenter’s in this article. My wife said I made it look so easy. It was nice going into the repair with a visual outline of the repair procedure. Here a couple of additional pointers that may help others. Many of these have already been mentioned in the comments:

      1) You will notice that the chassis bracket that the DZ board is mounted on can slide aft (away from the CRT) simply by lifting up on the levers on the left and right sides. This makes accessing the “stubborn” screw and connectors much easier.

      2) If available, I would recommend checking out the service manual for your TV. It may be found here: http://www.schematicsforfree.com/archive/dir/Sony/Video The service manuals shows proper cable wire dressing. There are certain ways the wires should be ran to avoid distortion issues with the TV.

      3) The service manual for my KV-30HS420 shows a “service position” where the bottom of the DZ and AY boards are made accessible without removing them from the chassis bracket by sliding them out and rotating up. If your thinking about doing this, don’t. The IC8002 and IC6501 circuits are not easily accessible through the openings in the bottom of the chassis bracket.

      4) Use caution when handling the board to avoid short circuits or static electricity that can damage sensitive components. The service manual lists a couple of heat sinks which should not be allowed to contact ground or other components on other boards. Just use a little caution as you remove the DZ board and you should be OK.

      5) I found that a 25 watt soldering iron worked the best. My 15 watt wasn’t quite hot enough.

      6) Take pictures before you start disassembly. I ended up removing more wires than you need to for this repair, but the pictures were useful to route the wires back the way they were.

      7) Make sure the MCZ3001DB chips are fully seated into the sockets. The sockets I had were pretty tight so you need to put a decent amount of pressure on the chips for them to fully seat.

    121. Another success story for my 40″ XBR… Thanks again!

    122. Frank N Streeb

      Thank you. I was about ready to chuck this 200 lb monster based upon the logistics of moving it to get an estimate for repairs or the high price of getting a service call in Lost Angeles. I found this article via a web search. I am in the process of opening up the TV and will report back upon completion with my results.

      Thank you Lee and everyone who has shared tips and advise.

    123. All,

      I have the same model as Lee and was also getting the 6 blinks. Today I made the fix but after powering the beast back up I still had no picture but now I have 4 blinks of the LED. Any one with any ideas? I’m searching 4 blinks now and all I’ve found is this, “No vertical Deflection (V STOP), Screen goes to a single horizontal line then the video signal muted. Check IC1509, Q1505″.

    124. Mark, double check that ALL wires are connected, check that all points are soldered, and also make CERTAIN that the pins that are not supposed to be soldered were left that way

    125. Jackpot! I left one plug tucked away and disconnected. Thanks again Lee, my TV is as good as new.

    126. you’re welcome, from Mark S

    127. I just finished following your instruction and replaced both MCZ3001D IC chip with MCZ3001DB. Now the TV’s Standby LED is blinking 3 times when I try to turn it on. What is wrong this time? and How do I fix it?

    128. Success! I had the 7-blick code on a KV34HS420. But, mine was even easier! I took compressed air and blew off any dust that was on the boards concentrating on the two chips and presto! A working TV again. If anyone reads all the way through this long thread this is the second case where just dusting has worked. Try it! It’s free! I have a portable tank for my air compressor which made it very easy. I have two extra chips now…

      mrdvt92

    129. I am updating on my last posting. The TV is working great after pushing down four black “bridges” between two circuit boards.

      Thanks for great DYI Fix-it article!!

    130. Lee,

      Great blog, I hope I have another success story brewing.
      I have a KV-30HS420 with 7 blinks. While waiting for the tools and parts to arrive, just spoke with a co-worker who offered to solder the ICs (my soldering skills are close to nil). So I have two options:
      1. Solder myself and not remove the 3 high voltage wires that connect to the CRT.
      2. Have mu buddy solder and remove the 3 high voltage wires that connect to the CRT
      What would be your recommendation? I would like to know how to remove the 3 high voltage wires that connect to the CRT anyway, just in case the soldering ends up with a fiasco and I decide to buy a new board.
      Thank you very much,

      Pedro

    131. Since I soldered my board in place (and I highly recommend replacing the ICs with sockets), I don’t know how difficult it is to remove the high voltage wiring. I gave it a try, ran into some difficulty and then realized I could just bring my soldering equipment to the TV. Maybe someone else who removed the board can offer some suggestions on how to disconnect the HV wiring.

    132. Lee,

      I doubted it can happen, forgive me… and here we go another success, unbelievable, it is working. You are a genius man, thank you.
      I had problems desoldering due to weak suction of an old borrowed pump.
      I purchased rosin soldering paste from Radio Shack (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049774) and smeared it on the tin before desoldering and on the elements before soldering.
      I used Radio Shack’s High-Tech Rosin Core Silver Bearing Solder (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062717), I think that because it is 0.022″ in diameter it made for me a beginner the soldering a snap.
      As for the rest I followed your instructions and watched youtube for soldering/desoldering.
      Thanks again,

      Pedro

    133. I have the exact model & issue detailed here. My problem is that I have no patience and one kind of luck – BAD.
      Anybody near Providence, RI want to make $200 fixing this for me?
      Yes…I’m serious.

    134. Same model Sony TV, 6 LED blinks. Googled, found this article. $20 for the chips and sockets shipped, amazon.com. $45 for RadioShack soldering and desoldering irons, nice ones too will need them for other projects. 6 pack of beer. Couple of hours to do the work, laid back… My TV is good as new!!! Thank you so much for the useful info!!!

    135. Steve and Donna

      THANK YOU! You saved out TV!

    136. Thanks you Lee and others who left ideas on this blog. Our Sony TV works like new again. I only have one thing to add. If you are new to working with solder(first time for me)watch it on You Tube. I found a video of someone accually soldering an IC into a board. In his video he cut the chip out which you will not need to do. Once the solder was removed, the chips came out easy with a small pliers.

    137. I replaced the ic chip. Still blinks 6 times?

    138. I just finished this repair, replacing both chips, WORKS GREAT!
      Thank you for publishing this how-to guide to repairing the TV. I love this TV, and will keep it as long as I can before submitting to the inferior picture of an LCD/LED/Plasma. For those who are getting ready to attempt this, you can get a pair of chips with sockets on ebay for $15. You will also need a de-soldering tool and a fine point soldering iron.

    139. The chip sockets can be found online through, MCM electronics for .09 cents each with 10.00 shipping or go to Mouser.com they have for .22 cents each with option for 7.00 usps priority mail…..Waiting for chips and sockets to see if this works….Thanks all….

    140. My 14 year old Sony Trinitron justed crapped out yesterday .And I just bought a new 46 inch Samsung led smart tv for less then I bought the Trinitron.No thanks with taking all these parts outand tthen have it fall apart again.

    141. Thank you so much, I love this TV and now it’s good as new. Plus, I saved it from ending up in the landfill, so that’s a bonus! The sockets are a great idea, if it happens again it’s only a few screws to fix it! I don’t think I would have attempted this fix without the brilliant write-up and pictures, it made it easy (even for a novice with soldering like me). Thanks again!

    142. Just wanted to drop a note and say thank you for the instructions on how to make this repair. I love my 42 inch Wega. It’s got the best picture I’ve seen except for the most expensive plasma. So when it wouldn’t turn on I was very bummed. Found your website and had to try the repair, even though I am pretty bad at soldering. I went extra slow and SHAZAAM the damn thing is working. Hats off to you. I only wish you had put up a pic showing where the screws holding the D board were. That one way in back had me baffled for a long time. But otherwise, your directions were fine. Th worst part was just wrestling these TVs around,! I cant believed I successfully soldered all those pins. Thanks again!

    143. First of all, I deeply appreciate for your efforts to help for us.

      On sony KV34XBR960, I replaced only IC8002 with new mcz3001DB with socket for blinking 6 or 7 times. It works. but it only worked for 2weeks. It failed again. I tried to replace with new mcz3001DB which was left over from last order, I ordered two but used only one for IC8002 location. It didn’t work .still blinking 6 or 7 times.

      1,Should I replace two new mcz3001DB on ic8002 and ic6501?
      2,should I check soldering on ic8002 or order resistor and capacitor?
      Thank you very much, Lee

    144. Hi Peter, There is always the possibility that there is something else wrong with the TV. We do sometimes get reports in this blog that the fix doesn’t work. TriState module recommends a few more parts (2 resistors and 2 capacitors) for this fix which costs about $20 extra. We haven’t received a report yet that confirms that when replacing the mcz3001DB fails that replacing these extra parts has helped. I would love it if someone could confirm that these parts help, but so far, either no one has tried it or, if they have, they have not confirmed that it worked when simply replacing the ICs did not fix the problem.

      The resistors they recommend replacing are virtually short circuits, so if they have failed, it would be easy to measure it. The caps are electrolytics, which do wear out over time, sometimes with a puffed out end cap, so perhaps you can take a look and see if anything looks suspicious.

    145. My Wega KD-34XS955 had starting issue with the 7-blink code. After replacing the suspect IC’s, problem solved. This HDTV is awesome, Thank you!

    146. Hi. My KV-30HS420 now has the 7 blink code. For a year before this happened thought the TV would sometimes turn red and/or have no picture until I changed the channel or turned it off and back on again. THough it also would ‘fix’ itself if I left it alone for a minute. Only happened when watching cable – never with a DVD, etc. My TV is in a nook above the fireplace so it’s not easy to get to – impossible with one person really. So, would the parts be the same for my 30″ set? I see some people had luck fixing there set, but not sure about the part numbers. Thanks!!

    147. Thanks for taking the time to document this. I saw a free listing for a WEGA with this blink code, and you answered my questions on it.

    148. Yes, I believe the D-board parts are the same for all of the HS420 sets.

    149. Lee, What a great blog! I have never messed with a circuit board before in my life. 4.5 hours later the Sony was back up and running! I can’t begin to thank you enough for taking the time to put this together.

      Cheers!

    150. I WANT TO THANK YOU FOR YOUR POSTING ON STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS AND PICTURES ON HOW TO SOLVE MY 7 BLINK PROBLEM. I PURCHASED ALL MY PARTS FROM TRISTATE MODULE AND DONE THE REPAIRS MYSELF.. I WAS A LITTLE WORRIED AT FIRST BUT I PRINTED OFF YOUR POST TO HAVE AT ARMS REACH. AND I WOULD LIKE TO SAY IT WAS NO PROBLEM AT ALL TO FIX. AND ONCE AGAIN THANK YOU!!!!!! YOU SAVED ME ALOT OF MOO-LAH!!!!!

    151. Thanks so much for the detailed instructions and photos. A friend of mine who is an EE put in the new ICE’s and the TV is back up and running.

    152. Winner, winner, chicken dinner!

    153. Thankyou! I tried this fix and had great success! My tv is now working and back to normal. My family is able to enjoy the family room tv again!!!

    154. Lee,

      The TV turns on and off without a glitch, but have no Volume!? I’ve checked every wired to make sure it’s on and attached properly. Any idea what I may have done? I was meticulous not to touch anything else. My only savior is I’ve got my receiver and speakers hooked up which outputs volume but my wife for some reason doesn’t like it.

      For that ‘hard to get screw’ at the back under the tube, I used one of those bit extenders and put a PH1 (philips 1) screw bit and held it and turned it with a wrench a few small turns to loosen it and simply used my hands on the bit extender to unscrew the screw.

      Any thoughts on the volume would be appreciated.

      Thanks again, great article!

    155. I’d try reseating (i.e., unplugging an reattaching) all of the cables and see if it makes a difference. There are also some .1-ohm 1/2 Watt resistors that act like fuses on the D-board that TriState Module recommends replacing and so you may wish to check those and see if they have continuity across them (i.e. 0 ohms resistance with an ohmmeter).

    156. Wow! I am so glad to find this posting! Not smart enough to do the job, but have sent a couple of techie friends the link, to see if they can help. Thank you so-o-o much!

    157. Update on my ‘no volume/sound’ issue after fixing the TV… reseated all the cables/plugs and working like a charm. Somehow, something must not have made a clean contact.

      Thanks again Lee.

    158. Brian Wisniewski

      Hey Lee, I just wanted to leave a note thanking you for the info. Your blog was one of the most credible sources I saw for fixing this issue on my 03 Vega. I was able to get the sockets and chips together on Amazon (they obviously see this a lot). Either way I got the parts yesterday and in about an hour I had a working tv once again.

      Thank you sir!

    159. Hi Lee,
      I have a Sony Wega Trinitron TV model
      #KD-34XBR960. I had the same problem as everyone else. I would try and turn on the TV and it would click off and red light would blink seven times. I changed only IC8002 and when I tried to turn it on it would do the same thing, blinked seven times. So, I also changed IC6501. Now when I try to turn it on it starts to come on the red light blinks three times then, it clicks off. The clicking sound comes from one of the two small rectangular boxes on the front right corner of the D-board facing the picture tube. It has DLS1U, 12VDC0.25W, TV-8, 5A/100A, 3A/120A, 250V,DEC,C54k on the top of the part. Could it be this part? If so which part is it and Where would I find it. Or, could it be the resistors and capacitors that TriState suggest. Any help would be appreciated.
      Thanks, Steven

    160. Hi Steven, I doubt it’s the part that is clicking that is the problem, it is just a relay (an electromechanical switch that is controlled by a low voltage to energize another portion of the TV). It gets its signal from elsewhere and that is where the problem likely resides. In looking over the blink codes, 3 blinks is an indication of over voltage condition. As mentioned previously, this fix doesn’t work all the time. As you noticed, Tri-State Module, who sells the ICs you replaced also recommends two capacitors and two resistors as well. You can try calling them and seeing if the 3 blinks may be an indication that one of those items is bad. So far we haven’t had anyone try adding those parts after replacing the ICs and reporting success. The resistors would be easy to check with an ohmmeter, since they are .1 ohm resistors that are intended to function as fuses. If you don’t read close to 0 ohms across them, the resistor is open. As for checking the capacitors, that would be harder. You’d likely need to unsolder them from the board and use a capacitance meter to see if they matched the value printed on the side.

    161. Hi Lee,
      I had the same problem (7 blinks) with my KV34HS420. After changing the ICs, it is working again. Beautiful picture!
      I changed also the electrolytics too (two pieces 1200 uF) because they are 8 years old and could be the real cause of the IC failure.
      Thanks Lee,
      Roldan

    162. Lee, A note of thanks, yes another success story on saving my great TV. also saving big bucks. All worked out just as you said and with all posts helped my decision to try it myself. thanks again. ralph

    163. Lee,
      Had the 7 blink code problem a few months ago, researched it, found your fix, ordered the parts… but in the mean time found that if I unplugged the set and let it cool, in the morning it would power up normally. The blink codes seemed to occur when the set was hot, was turned off and then turned on again in a short period of time. So the obvious solution was to leave it on. It was working, and installing the new chips seemed to have about a 1 in 10 chance of bricking it. After around 3 months, it finally failed in service with the same 7 blink code. The good news was installing the new chips/sockets (Once I figured out where I stashed them months ago) did indeed fix the problem!
      Thank you for taking the time to publish and update this fix.

    164. Lee, A short note of thanks for your detailed instructions on the repair of the Sony TV with the 6 blinking lights. About a month ago, my kids were watching our Sony when the picture went blank and the dreaded flashing began. I had experienced a similar issue with my in-laws TV and it had resulted in an expensive repair as the Power Supply module had to be replaced. Fearing the worst I turned to the internet and located your site. I had never done anything close to soldering, let alone opened up a TV and expected to come out alive. With the cost being so minimal and the worse possible outcome being that I would have a TV that still did not work, I ordered the parts. I found a spot in Indiana (Fushicho Trading Co, LTD, Whitestown, IN 46075) that had the chips and the sockets. I proceeded to disassemble the TV. The screws around the TV were not bad and I found that by lifting the tray that held the board, even the hidden screw could be easily accessed. I tipped the board up and began to use the iron and solder weave tape to remove the solder from the existing chips. The removal probably took me an hour as I was very nervous about getting all of the solder off the board. I then took the sockets and clipped the legs that were not to be included. I soldered the new seats in place. I inserted the chips and powered her up. Unfortunately, the light pattern was now 3 rather than 6. My worse fears had been realized.
      The following week, a friend in the electronics trade was in town and I explained to him what I was doing. His first question “So you have never soldered before and your first project was your TV?” We laughed a bit and he agreed to come over and take a look see at my handy work. His first comment was “So you are from the school of more solder is better, eh?” I had some cold solder joints and more solder than was necessary to do the job. He said though that the real problem in these types of repairs is that too much heat is applied during the removal process and you break a connection on the board called a trace. These are fine layers of copper that can be pulled loose during this kind of work. He examined the board and found a broken trace. Using some fine wire and solder, he replaced the trace on the board. He cleaned the board up and removed any excess solder from my connections. I put the TV set back together and fired it up. There she was, as good as new!
      It was quite an experience but has continued to work for a week now so I am confident the fix was a good one. I also now have the sockets so that when these chips go bad, they can just be popped out and replaced.
      I would recommend the experience to anyone. It was scary and exhilarating all at the same time. I was so happy to see the set working again! Thank you so much for all the detail you provided as it made this all possible.
      -Greg

    165. Don’t cut ANY wires folks! The big wires go to a board that can be easily removed from the end of the picture tube…

    166. Lee,

      Thanks for the great page describing how to deal with this Sony Wega problem. My electrician brother came over today and installed the chips and once again my bedroom KV-32HS510 is working!

      I had another TV die recently and I was dreading the thought of having to shell out $$$ for 2 TV’s, let alone having to drag this 175 pound monster out to the curb.

      Thanks again dude!

    167. Hi Lee, Just finished installing the chips in a KD34XBR960. Had the exact symptom you mentioned. Oddly if unplugged for long enough to cool overnight it would start up until powered off again. This set was similar although there are 9 screws holding the D board. I used a screwdriver tip from a quick change screwdriver with standard on one end and phillips on the other to remove the hard one at the front connector. It was necessary on this set to remove the 3 small connectors under the CRT tube otherwise not enough slack to move the board up to service. My set also had a audio board just in front of the D board, that has 3 screws and has to be pushed aside. My set seemed to have the new lead free solder and was a devil to get the chips out. I finally in frustration resorted to a method I use sometimes. I broke the chip along the body and nibbled it out to leave just standing pins. Using a needlenose on one side and the soldering iron on the other I was able to remove the pins one by one. I used a 40 thousands drill bit with a pin vise to slowly open up the holes. Installed sockets as you directed using good 2% silver/lead/tin rosin core solder. The set powered up fine after being off 12 Hours for repair. I’m not sure this is really a novice project. I found it challenging and I build DIY audio projects. Still I think if someone has the will and takes time and has patience it isn’t to bad. I recommend using a static strap to ground yourself to the set during chip installation to avoid ESD (electrostatic discharge damage)to the new chips. As my father and cousin have KD34XBR970 sets, I plan to stock up on these chips to save these venerable old Sony’s when they finally fail. Thank you for the fine tutorial Lee. Much appreciated. Dave

    168. about that hard to get at screw… the bottom of the tv is a carrier for the printed wire boards. there are two plastic latches on either side of the carrier, toward the front of the tv. if you look at the d board picture, bottom left, you will see a heavy red wound up wire. just to the right of it is an upsidedown T. it is grey plastic and part of the carrier. pry it up, gently and pull back on the carrier.go to the other side and repeat. the carrier will move backwards to the maintenance position and you can get to everything. unless you live on a boat… how many screws does it take to hold down a PWB! if your remote does ‘t work when you’re finished, push the carrier back to the snap to lock position.

    169. willie garries

      Hello Lee

      I think you have solved my kv-34hs420.I can’t seem to find the mcz3001db…the mzc3001D is available. can I use either? Please advise and THANKS for your HELP

      Garries

    170. From what I’ve read, the MZC3001DB is an improved version of the MZC3001D and MZC3001DA chips so it should work as long as it is the same type (i.e., a DIP-style through-hole chip). Amazon has vendors that carry the MZC3001DB chips.

    171. I am about to try this right now! Thanks for the article. I’m wondering if you might be able to incorporate the useful suggestions in the comments and update your post?

      OK, here goes!…

    172. Antoine Coviello

      Thanks so much!

      This is the second time the power supply has gone out on my huge old Sony WEGA — the first time they charged me $300 to fix it, this time, I found your blog.

      Total repair time was about 1 hour (not counting the time I spent looking for my soldering equipment :)

      Toal cost was $15. Thanks again, what a blessing you have been!

    173. Thanks for the insight into this widespread problem. My Sony Wega model KV30HS420 (manufature date Nov 2004) sometimes presented code six and other times code 7.

      After desoldering the IC’s described, the 18-pin IC sockets were soldered into place, the IC’s installed–but then on startup I would hear the “charging sound” then the set would click off with no further codes presented.

      It turned out that I had lifted a piece of the conductive foil on one pin of an IC when desoldering the original IC and the connection was not reestablished upon soldering in of the socket.

      I noticed this with a magnifying glass and a bright light after examining the solder job. Oops.

      Set works fine now after retouching with solder.

      Excellent tutorial on this subject. Thank you.

    174. hey lee great instructions i am about to try this fix on my tv and have ordered the parts when they came in both chips were mcz3001d but my tv has one of each mcz3001d & mcz3001db whats the diff and will the two 1d chips work

    175. From what I’ve read, the chips are functionally the same.

    176. Thanks for the directions! I was able to repair my 36″ Wega which was displaying the same blinking standby problem as you’ve described. Cheap and relatively easy $15 repair!

    177. Thanks for the article and incredibly clear directions and photos, Lee. I like the WEGA widescreen XBR960′s so much that I bought three for no more than $40, have two in use and one for backup.

      I had the chip problem with my previous KV34 widescreen TV and tossed it because it sounded like way more than I could handle. I’m not sorry about that because the replacement XBR960′s image was even better and the sound, with the subwoofer, is just great. One XBR960 I bought did have color problems with HD shows only, with with a green or purple cast to the image. But, with getting them so easy now, I tossed it and got a new (used) one.

      Anyway, now I can fix these if they go on the fritz and have a one for a backup . Fantastic job, Lee, and amazingly helpful to those of us still preferring CRT quality and these exceptional pieces of SONY engineering. I just sit closer to the TV! Love em.

    178. Thank you so much for this amazing post. My 19yr old son just fixed our TV. As a single Mom I neither wanted to move it, or can afford to pay a repair person to fix it. He has solder & welding experience so I figured if he thought he could fix it then he probably could. So very happy. Thanks again.

    179. Ok – My chips should be coming today. The TV’s been unplugged for two days. I’m unplugging all the components from it now. I’m a total novice, but what do I have to lose? So, is there any discharging that I need to do of the high voltage or will unplugging of the set authomatically allow this to happen? Thanks!

    180. It’s impossible to say how long each capacitor might take to leak down to a safe voltage. Depending on the design of the circuit it could take seconds or it could take hours. I left mine go overnight and had no problems. I don’t know of any way to expedite the process without risking destroying something. If yours has been unplugged for two days, you should be fine. Whenever working in areas where high voltages may be present, I use insulated tools and only use one hand at a time so as not to create a potential path of discharge from one hand to the other.

    181. hi lee i have this kd34xs955 sony tv. The led light used to blink 7 time, i follow every thing u wrote how to change the ic but know i have a three blinking light.And it just dose not go on,it makes a clicking sound the light flashes three time and goes off. please help thinks you

    182. Hi Tom, The last person who reported that sort of issue had neglected to plug in one of the cables. So I’d check all the cable connections and if that’s not it, carefully check your soldering work with a magnifying glass to make sure that none of the traces are broken, which sometimes happens when de-soldering the chips. If you read back through some of the comments, you will find more details of a few people who had the 3-blink issue after the initial fix but eventually got it working.

    183. hi lee i try every thing .Everything looks good all the cables are in place

    184. I would check the solder joints you made and connections with a magnifying glass. Look up the definition of a ‘cold solder joint’ on Google and see if you can identify any of your soldering as looking like those images. They are easy to fix, generally, by re-heating the joint. It’s not uncommon to have a solder joint that doesn’t actually conduct electricity if it falls into the category of a ‘cold solder joint’. Touch up any of the joints you have made and check to see if there are any issues with the traces such as being cracked. If that’s not it, then it’s possible the problem lies elsewhere. We have had a vendor (Tri-state module) recommend the replacement of a few capacitors and resistors in addition to these chips, but we have yet to have anyone come back and tell us that they replaced the chips, then had another issue, such as the one you report here where you have gone from 6 to 3 flashes, and then replaced the resistors or capacitors and, Viola!, it fixed the issue.

    185. Unplug It for Five Minutes

      Following the restoration of power to my home after a three hour outage, my KD-34XBR960 would not turn on. The LED blinked repeatedly from 3 blinks to 20 blinks on different attempts to turn on the TV before the TV turned itself off. After reading this web site, I was preparing to replace the ICs on the power supply board and I decided to try one more maneuver before proceeding with the repair.
      It occurred to me that the failure of the TV to turn on must have something to do with the power restoration and perhaps had nothing to do with failed ICs. Perhaps the TV’s start up program had been modified by a power surge and thus the TV could not turn itself on. I decided to see if I could reset the startup software in the TV and restore the startup Program by unplugging the TV from the wall outlet for five minutes. I did this and when I plugged the TV back in and turned it on it completed the startup and came on normally as it had done reliablly for several years prior to the problem hat had occurred.
      While many startup problems may be the result of ICs that have failed, some problems probably result from the TV’s start up program having been jumbled and unplugging the TV will reset it. This may not restore normal operation in all instances, but it is a simple no risk procedure to try before pulling the TV apart to replace the ICs

    186. Hi Lee (and all),

      First of all, thanks for posting such a detailed set of instructions (whether i fix my TV or not!). I started the job tonight and managed to remove the old IC’s. After the work, I noticed something I may have screwed up. If you look at your close-up picture above of IC8002, you can see something on the right hand side labeled R8057. Between the two tiny solder joints there is something extremely small (maybe a resistor?). I just noticed it is missing on my board. I can only assume that, in my attempts to remove the old IC’s, I accidentally heated the solder near it and it fell off. Weird that IC6501 also has a similar setup (see picture above, labeled R6541) but nothing soldered between the two joints. Any thoughts? Did I just make this behemoth a boat anchor?

      Thanks,

      Paul

    187. Hi Paul, It’s hard to know if the missing resistor will cause problems or not, so it’s probably best to fix it before you get everything back together. The part you’re describing is a 13 k-ohm resistor that should be connected between pin 5 of IC8002 and the groundplane. The IC6501 has the same resistor between pin 5 and ground, but it’s to the right of the chip. I’d recommend finding a through-hole resistor of about the same value and solder it between pin 5 and ground. It’s a common way to replace an SMT resistor if you’re limited to using through-hole components. You’ll have to fold up the legs so they reach the same locations, but any ground point would work so you’re not limited to using the ground pad that the SMT resistor used. Ideally, you can find a 1/8 watt version which will be the smallest through hole resistor size, but you could get away with using a 1/4 watt rated resistor if it’s easier to find.

    188. Thanks Lee, I actually managed to dig up the service manual for the TV which gave the part number for R8057 which I have ordered from Sears Parts Direct for $6. Probably more expensive then your solution above but will work just the same, I presume.

      Thanks!

    189. Hello Lee, I have a KD-34XS955 which was manufactured in December of 2004. My problem is slightly different than the ty[ical one described here in that TV would fade out and shut off after being on for sometimes 8 hours or so. The blinks would vary between 6 and 7. Unplugging the television for 30 seconds solved the problem, until the next time. The problem increased in frequency over the last couple of months. Luckily I found your site and finally took the time the change the chips 3 days ago. I wanted to wait a few days before writing. The TV is working like new again. Thanks to to all who responded with additional tips and of course special thanks to you Lee for taking the time to post some an awesome tutorial. There should be good Karma in your future :)

    190. Hi, I got the 7 blinks about a week ago. I ordered the parts described here and made the repair just now. However, like several others, I am now getting 3 blinks instead. I have tried to redo any connections that may have been done during the process.

      I feel like I have done them all, but with one major omission: This blue cable, with a red end. It comes from a device on the D board that has the suction cable on top of the cathode ray tube. Did this go somewhere? It is really bothering me – I really hope this goes somewhere and is the missing link to having a functional TV again. Thanks for any help! If there is any confusion about this cable, I can try to provide a picture soon.

    191. GREAT BLOG MORE INSITE THAN I EXPECTED. THANKS,STEVE E

    192. Hi Lee,

      One more question, I noticed today (finally getting around to putting this back together) that some of the holes on the bottom of the board (with the chips removed) have a foil circle and a few do not. I am wondering if that is normal or did i simply remove/damage them upon disassembly? Is there any way to replace them?

      Thanks!

      Paul

    193. do you think this will work for a KDFE55A20? tv is unplugged and will be for a day or 2 before I start.

    194. That Sony model is a rear projection Wega TV. I don’t know if this fix will work, but according to TriState Module’s website, it does have a ‘D’ board and those parts are used on it. If you give it a try and it fixes it, let us know.

    195. Hi Lee,

      Any thoughts on my question above (from July 10)? Sorry to be a pest and thanks for the help!

      Paul

    196. Hi Paul, Sorry I didn’t see your question. If you’re referring to pins 13 and 17, they are not supposed to be soldered and on my board, the silkscreen covered up any solder pad that might be present under the silkscreen. Some have reported soldering those pins (I assume there must be some foil under the silkscreen) and that afterwards, the TV didn’t work. The best way to make sure those pins don’t make contact with any conductive part of the board is to clip them off of the socket before you install it. If you haven’t done that, make sure visually that the pin is centered in the hole and not touching anything.

    197. Hi Nick, If you have a wire that is disconnected, you will need to figure out where it goes. I can’t tell from your message if you have the suction cup disconnected or the other end of the suction cup cable. I had a few more pictures of my TV and I’ll send you one to your email address to see if helps you figure out where that cable needs to be connected.

    198. Hi, my email is newtraditionalists at hotmail dot com. The suction cup is not disconnected, but the blue cable in question derives from where the suction cup’s cable comes from on the d board. Thanks for any help!

    199. Nick,
      That blue wire that goes into the flyback transformer (FBT) is the G2 wire and connects to the “CH” board. See page 15 of the service manual (link provided below) for a image of where it connects.

      http://www.schematicsforfree.com/archive/file/Sony/Video/Sony%20Kv30Hs420.pdf

    200. I have a Sony KV-34HS420 that has this issue. I am in the Tacoma, WA area. If anyone would like to buy it and do their own repair, please let me know. I am going to be getting a larger LED panel to replace it. I loved the TV, but it is time for an upgrade. My unit is in otherwise perfect shape.

    201. Thanks for the instructions. I had success, with a couple of glitches during the repair.

      I have a KV36XBR800, which started flickering red occasionally, and a couple of weeks later, it would occasionally shut off with the 6/7 blink error code. I ordered 2 MCZ3001DB chips and 2 sockets that I bought on ebay from miamielectronics for under $15 including shipping. They shipped very quickly, using a yellow envelope and a sturdy IC tube.

      I looked for the extra capacitors and resistors, but the sources were few and the cost somewhat prohibitive. I could only find equivalent resistors for sale on ebay, for a bit of a premium price. In my opinion, if you have used your TV a lot, then it’s probably worth replacing the extra components, as many of the replacement capacitors had lifetime ratings of 2000-3000 hours. During the repair, I did notice that one of the fusible resistors had cracked, but my meter said it was still the right resistance, so I left it alone.

      The first time I repaired this, I ended up with a 5-blink code afterwards, so I discharged things and opened it back up. Sure enough, I had left a 4-pin cable header unplugged.

      I also ended up accidentally snapping the wire connector (CN9009) on the CX board which accepts the white wire from the flyback transformer. I had pulled the tray out to work on the D board to avoid the stubby screwdriver problem mentioned in the original article, but this reduces the slack if you aren’t careful. I was unable to find a similar connector to replace it with, since all the decent parts stores in Nashville have gradually closed over the last 10 years, so I eventually just soldered the wire directly to the board, and trimmed the excess.

      I already had the tools from my tinkering days. I used the syringe-style solder sucker pump for most of the job, but I did find the braided desoldering wick to come in handy for a couple of spots. I haven’t soldered or desoldered very many ICs, and my soldering skills were rusty, so I reviewed some good YouTube soldering/desoldering videos. I could tell that these vastly improved my technique. I practiced on an old motherboard, but I had better results on the main repair.

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3XeEn2ENYj0
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4

      In retrospect, I would have found batteries for my headlamp to make this experience more pleasant. If you have a digital camera, take pictures of everything that you touch – before you modify it.

      Thanks Lee, and all the others who have commented on this thread. You all saved me the trouble of hauling this 240 lb. beast to the road, or converting it into a really cool fish tank. I did this repair by myself, but I STRONGLY suggest having someone help you move this TV if it’s in a tight spot. There were a couple of times where I thought this thing was going to crunch the chassis or the TV stand when I was turning it around to work on it.

    202. Hi Lee,

      Turns out that Sears did not have the part I needed so I am headed to Radio Shack tomorrow in hopes they have the resistor you mentioned in your previous reply. A question, it appears that R8057 is soldered between pins 4 and 5….is pin 4 a ground (hence your recommendation to solder the resistor between pin 5 and a ground plane)? If you look at the picture above, you can see that it appears R8057 is simply soldered between pins 4 and 5, am i seeing things?

      Thanks!

      Paul

    203. Hi Lee,

      I just had a look at the service manual i found online and it shows that r8057 is connected to pin 4 of IC8002, is that correct? Considering pin 5 is a straight ground, could i do as i note above and solder the resistor between pins 4 and 5?

      Thanks!

      Paul

    204. Hi Paul, Yes, you can just solder the resistor between pins 4 and 5. The reason I mentioned between pin 5 and ground was because I believe I looked at the schematic and realized that pin 4 was ground and you were (potentially) replacing a small SMT resistor with a regular thru-hole resistor, which is much larger. Therefore, if you couldn’t fit it in the original position which was under the IC, you could just find a convenient ground, solder one end there and the other end at pin 5.

    205. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! I’ve never soldered or unsoldered anything in my life, but I figured the TV would be toast anyway so I gave it try. Your pictures and descriptions were amazing. I bought EXACTLY what you suggested, bought my first saudering iron and solder sucker, watch a couple of Youtube videos on soldering and Shazamm! I can’t begin to thank you. You saved my family hundreds of dollars and lots of heartache. Your blog was GREATLY appreciated!
      Thanks
      Andy

    206. Hi Andy, I generally don’t answer postings unless there is some sort of question, but in your case, I just wanted to mention that I am very pleased that you were able to fix your TV without having any previous soldering experience. I get a lot of responses like yours and it always makes me happy to hear that another TV has from saved from the landfill.

    207. THANK YOU!!!!!..Another happy customer here!
      Saturday morning I found my KD-36XS955 basically dead and the Led blinking 7 times. I’m a electronics tech, so I decided to go online and find out how much the prints will cost me. Fortunately, I came accross this post while searching for the schematics online… Saturday morning, I ordered the ICs from Amazon for $17 and got a couple of 18-pin sockets from Radio Shack. I decided to pay an extra $17 for overnight delivery, and today (Monday evening) I’m watching TV again, thanks to your blog!!!

    208. Thanks for the detailed tutorial! I was able to fix my sony wega kv-34hs420 with your help. I didn’t want to spend the $ on a new TV right now. So hopefully it will last another 5 years.

    209. Very cool site. The kdf wega blinking light problem with no picture is caused by a bad bulb. Someone can get generic replacement on amazon for 36 dollars or get the original panasonic for 100 dollars. I have been working on 2 kdf wegas and now researching trinitron wegas.

    210. Hi Lee,

      Given the amount of help you gave me throughout this repair, I couldn’t leave you without you knowing the result. It worked! I soldered in a 13K ohm resistor (1/8 watt) between pins 4 and 5, locked the chips into the sockets and plugged everything else back in and the 200 lb. boat anchor is back to being a TV again!

      Thanks so much for all your help…

      Paul

    211. Sorry for previous comment. KDF 5 blink is bulb. 6 blink is thermal fuse. Also on amazon.

    212. Lee,

      It was awesome of you to post the [6/7 blinking lite diagnosis] and details for making this repair!! I too, was successful in getting my Sony back up and running in just a couple hours. I am an old fart that actually paid my way thru college by repairing TV’s and other electronics in the early to late 70′s and have had little need to pull the back off a set in many years.

      Having your concise diagnosis and helpful photos made the repair a no-brainer. Great suggestion to install the IC sockets; that’s also a pretty fool-proof technique to avoid damaging the new IC’s by overheating during the soldering process.

      BTW: I ordered the IC/Socket set off eBay and had product in hand within a couple days.

    213. Unfortunately….30 minutes after the set was up and running fine, it failed again. Now I have the 6 blinks again. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

    214. The first thing I’d look for are bad solder joints. Check out google to see the difference between a good solder joint and a cold solder joint. Also check the resistors and caps mentioned in other comments if you can’t find any issues with the soldering.

    215. I have a KF-50WE610 WEGA. It started with the six blinks,it would take up to three attempts to energize the TV,but would turn on.Then it would stay on all day,with no problems.After a week or so,now it takes upto 30attempts,to energize the TV.And once again ,would stay on all day with no problems.(NOTE: I AM DISABLED,& THAT IS WHY THE TV STAYS ON ALL DAY !)Will tthis repair method work for my TV ? THANK YOU FOR THIS GREAT SITE !!

    216. I had the 7 blink code on a 40 inch sony wega. I put in two sockets and new chips on the d board like you said, but now when i turn it on, i hear the loud relay sound and a second later it shuts down. The standby light blinks about three times before it cuts off all the power. Any ideas? Thanks

    217. First I’d check to make sure all the cables are connected and seated properly. If that’s not it, then check the soldering to make sure there are no bad solder joints, or lifted traces, or IC legs that might be crumpled and not in the socket. If all the soldering looks good, there are two resistors that are fusible links (.1 ohm resistors) near the ICs that you should check to see if there is any physical damage. If you have an ohmmeter, check to make sure they are not open circuits. There are also two largish electrolytic capacitors (1200 uF) that have been known to fail. The .1 ohm resistors and 1200 uF caps are available from TriState Module which has a link in the posting.

      I can’t say that replacing the resistors or caps will help, but that is something that TriState recommends when the IC replacement by itself doesn’t fix the problem.

    218. FROM JULY 23rd. I HAVE A KF-50WE610 WEGA, IS THE G1 POWER SUPPLY BOARD,THE SAME AS THE D POWER SUPPLY BOARD. AND WOULD IT BE THE SAME PROBLEM,TO SOLVE ? THANK YOU !!

    219. Thanks for these great instructions! My 12-year old son and I made the repair yesterday, and it worked like a charm. Learned soldering building Heathkits many years ago. I cut down a stubby screwdriver to make it short enough to get at the last screw on the circuit board.

    220. Hi Michael, I don’t know if the G1 power supply board uses the same components as the D board, but in searching the web with your model number and the ’6 blink’ problem I didn’t find a single mention of replacing the chips. Instead, the recommended fix was to replace a thermal fuse or the entire board. So I don’t think this fix will work for your model.

    221. I THINK THAT IF THE FUSE WAS BAD,I WOULD NOT BE GETTING ANY PICTURE !AFTER 30 + ATTEMPTS.I CAN NOT SEEM TO FIND ANY G1 BOARDS,ANYWHERE !DO YOU KNOW WHERE THE G1 BOARD IS LOCATED,OR IS IT TAGGED,BEFORE I REMOVE THE BACK ? THANK YOU !!

    222. Michael, I think this site is for sony tubes. yours is lcd projection and is a sinking ship. The lcd light engines are defective and need replacing every few years with harvested parts which cost over 200.00. Thermal fuses and bulbs are on amazon. I think g-1 board is at sony https://www.servicesplus.sel.sony.com/sony-part-number-A1302272A.aspx for 127.00. Picture is here http://www.shopjimmy.com/sony-a-1302-272-c-g1-board.htm.

    223. Lee,

      Thank you for your explicit, simple tutorial regarding the IC fix for the SONY Wega KD-34XBR960, among other SONY TV models. I ordered the IC chips from Tri-State Module and the 18-pin IC sockets from Radio Shack. Having worked with electronics for years, I found the task straightforward, quick and successful. Kudos to you for taking the time in researching the solution and committing it to this blog. You have saved numerous consumers from trashing one of the best CRT TV’s SONY had ever manufactured and deferred unnecessary repair expenses. Thanks again!

    224. Lee,

      Thanks for this amazing tutorial for fixing my Sony TV. Anyone that is comtemplating this repair but not sure if they are technically proficent to pull it off, I say go for it. I was able to order the parts for around $15, and do the repair in about 2 hours. My TV is back to working fine. Also, adding the IC Sockets is a great idea, if this ever needs to be done in the future I can just plug in the chips without removing the board. In my case I used a thin pair of pliers to push pins 13 and 17 out of the IC Sockets before soldering them to the D Board, that way in the future no need to worry about which pins are not soldered… just install the chips in the correct direction and all is good.

    225. This is GREAT walkthru. However I should have listened more closely about the soldering part. I learned the hard way that you shouldnt use a 60W soldering iron for this job. Still trying to get the first chip out, but the board is getting scortch marks at the solder sites and the solder sucker doesnt seem to be sucking up anything. Going for a 25W iron tomorrow.

      Does anyone know where I can buy an entire replacement D Board if mine is toast? Would still be cheaper than trashing/replacing this beautiful 8 year old KV34XBR960…

    226. Awesome fix for my son’s Sony…woohoo! :) Did the repair on Thursday, took about an hour from open set to closed set – great vid – found the MCZ3001DB with sockets AND solder sucker at B&D, like another poster here, for about $17 shipped from Amazon. Took a bit of work since the last time I soldered was ohhh about 20 years ago..but hey, it’s like riding a bike right? Took my time and wahla…tv works, son is happy – I’m happy, saved me tossing it or recycling it for another year or so. Thanks VERY much Lee. Rob.

    227. Thanks Lee! You saved another one from the curb today.

    228. Follow-up:
      My repair was not a success after all. The same problem came back. The last time I worked on it, I noticed that one of the resistors was cracked, but the impedance tested properly. It may be a thermal issue, and I probably should have bought the parts to replace the caps and the resistors.

      Instead, I wimped out and bought a new Vizio. It’s a shame, but it’s time to retire this beast. Hopefully, someone will be able to fix it, or gut it for parts. So far, I’m not missing the old one. The speakers on the new one are pathetic, but I use my receiver for sound anyway.

    229. Does anyone know who will buy these old SONY WEGA TV’S , for parts ? I have a KF-50WE610 model. THANKS, & HAVE A GREAT DAY !!

    230. My Sony KV-36HS420 had the 7 blink error referenced. So, I decided to tackle it myself. I replaced the 2 IC’s recommended on the D board. When I turned it back on, I got the 3 blinking lights and it shut off referenced by someone in later posts. When I opened it back up to make sure all connections were correct, I noticed the black & white connector (in lower left of picture)was not connected. So, I was hopeful it was as simple as plugging this back in. However, still getting the 3 blinking lights and shutting down. Aside from letting it sit another day to discharge and checking the soldering connections, is there anything else I can check on? Would appreciate any additional info. Great post, explanantions and pics. Just wished it had worked for me but I’m sure it’s operator error..lol.

      Thanks,
      Darren

    231. Ok, FIXEd IT!! My Sony Trinitron Color TV Model KD36XS955
      began to show the 6 or 7 code and finally wouldn’t start up after repeated reboots by pulling the plug overnight.

      Some tips I can pass on:

      After removing the back, I was able to turn it onto the face without removing it from the table. Most of the weight is near the front, so by sliding it backwards, I was able to tilt it forward onto the stand, which I padded.

      Once the bottom was exposed, I was able to remove the bottom by removing two screws. The circuit boards, etc… are hooked to the bottom with three plastic tab-locks which can be pulled towards you, the circuit boards lift up about 1″ to unhook from the bottom, then released back down, and the bottom is easily lifted out.

      To obtain clear access to unsolder the IC chips, I clipped out a T-shaped section of the frame under the boards that partially covered the underside of the chips. I removed 5 screws from the D-board to give it a little flex away from the frame cutting.

      It was a learning experience, but after reviewing the soldering videos, I managed to use a spring loaded solder sucker and de-solderig wick, then worked the sticky legs of the chip a bit with needle nose pliers and got the chips out. I highly recommend using a chip puller (Radio Shack).

      Considering a 50/50 chance, I decided to try replacing just the rear (now top) chip first, which worked!

      I decided (after ratholing the socket a few times) that the socket may act as somewhat of a heat sink, so decided to solder the socket in place with the IC chip aboard, which did work out OK in the end.

      After carefully bending the legs of the 18-pin dip socket, until they fit easily into the holes fro the rear, orienting the notches towards the outside, I placed the IC chip into the socket and THEN, using the chip puller, I inserted them joined together through the board and bent the legs, some outwards, some inwards to hold the socket in place.

      I’ve redeemed myself, somewhat, in the eyes of my skeptical wife, who was already shopping for a Labor Day Special on a new widescreen. Me too, but I decided to give the repair a go and got real feeling of accomplishment!

      Best of luck!

    232. Just finished buttoning up my sony Wega, GREAT thread, no hangups in repair, insightful comments from some folks. I had not done any soldering on boards in more than a few years but it’s like riding a bike, you don’t forget.Just putting my finger under the edges of the drawbridge type connectors and pulling up gently on each side released them with a click, pressing down gently upon each side for reinstallation seats them properly.Thanks, Lee. Bob R

    233. This fixed my 40″ kv-40xbr800. Thanks for the awesome repair guide!!

    234. Chalk up another success fixing a KD34XBR960 with 7 blinks. This repair record is a very empowering thing for people who are willing to give it a try.

      A few notes I’d add about the process:

      - for the 4 bridge connectors, Ift the D-board end first and pivot them up.
      - no need to disconnect the three larger single (red, red, blue) wires. There’s enough extra wire to take the board out and stand it up – can use a small pillow on the speaker assembly to rest the board for working on it.
      - The old IC chips can be cut to pieces with nippers for easy unsoldering to remove the chunks.
      - With 2 people working together, heat on the soldered side and use the solder sucker from the device side, leaving nice clean holes big enough for easy insertion of the new socket.
      - When going back in, the D board only needs about half of its screws.

      Great help, Lee – thanks.

      -

    235. If I just want to buy a d board where can I get it? What is the part number? Is it called something else? I just spent 2 hours looking for a part number, etc and no luck.

      THANKS

    236. Hello,

      I had the same blinking 6 and 7 standby light issue. I went ahead and replaced both ic’s on the DZ board and when I went to turn it on, it didn’t work. I now get the 3 blinking led error code. I read what others said and I ended up checking continuity between every IC pin and the board and each was soldered correctly and no shorts across any pin to the next. So that would suggest my soldering is fine and removal went well.

      I am a EE and worked on circuit boards for over 10 years.

      I also checked the resistors and they showed the proper resistance. I checked the caps and they were fine too.

      I also checked the connectors and nothing was bad as far as a bent pin or anything.

      Any other ideas or thoughts?

      Thanks

    237. Lee,
      I found your article online a few weeks ago and tried to order the part on tristate but they were out of stock, (plus I don’t have the tools or the know how) so I found a television repairman on Craigslist who came to the house and replaced the part for $90.00 and a 90 day warranty.
      The problem is that when he leaves the tv works, and works until I shut it off, but when I go to turn it on again the next day it does the exact same thing. Turns on and shuts off in about 5 seconds.
      He’s been here twice now and he said it’s a “reset” problem and that all I need to do is unplug it and when I turn it back on it will reset itself.
      Do you have any suggestions? I hate to have him come back out, but I aslo would feel bad about asking for my $90 back because its not working.
      Thanks,
      Tess~

    238. I’m not sure what may have happened, but there are two of those
      chips and it’s possible he replaced the wrong one. Do you know
      if he replaced both chips or just one of them? Does LED blink 6 or
      7 times after it’s shut down? It it doesn’t, perhaps it wasn’t the
      MZC8001DB chips that were the problem.

    239. I am not sure which ones he replaced… After it shuts itself down it is a blink.
      I actually got it to turn on last night after replacing a extension cord with a power strip, but now it’s not working again. The repairman is coming back today so I will show him this post and find out which ones he did replace.
      Thanks so much for your assistance!
      Teresa~

    240. I meant a 6 blink code.

    241. Thanks again for your site. I had the same problem with my kv-27hs420. It started last Saturday. I read enough of the comments that I decided I would give it a try. I ordered the sockets and semiconductors through ebay from B&D electronics for $17. I had done some soldering before but not much on circuit boards. On Tuesday my TV started working again but by Friday it wasn’t working and giving me the same 6 red blinks. So I attempted the repair on Saturday.

      After installing the sockets and semiconductors, I turned my tv on and got 3 red blinks. I was annoyed. I unplugged the tv again removed the chips and noticed that one of the slots in a socket was coming out. I removed the whole socket so I could see if I could fix it. I got it out and made an adjustment to it then reinstalled it.

      I turned my tv on again and I still got 3 red blinks. Now I was really annoyed. I got back on this site and started reading through the comments again. I saw a couple entries where people said that they got 3 red blinks and then checked their soldering connections and it fixed it. I also decided to try clipping off the 13 and 17 pins. I didn’t want to remove the sockets again so I clipped the pins off from the semiconductors. I redid all the soldering. It worked!

      I was so happy that I was finally able to get it to work. My thanks to Lee and the other commenters who helped me with this.

    242. about 5yrs. ago my Sony went out and it was blinking 6 or 7 times, so called in a professional and he charged me 300.00 to fix it. So here we are again but this time i found this great post on how to do it yourself. OK so i got new parts and took off the back and have the D board out and ready, have just one small problem I have never solder anything in my life. should i get someone who has solder to do this part or can i take a crack at doing the soldering?

    243. Hi Alison, You can find videos on YouTube on desoldering/soldering. Here is a video that shows a similar procedure to what you’ll be doing.

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8UN3D2-f64A

      In this case, he cuts the IC out first, which isn’t my preferred way of doing it, but others have resorted to this technique. It destroys the IC, but in your case, it doesn’t matter since you’ll be replacing it. I typically pull the solder out with the vacuum pump, break any small amounts of solder holding the legs free by wiggling the leg with needle nose pliers until all the legs are free. The ‘D’ board is a single layer board, so it’s much easier to unsolder the IC than it is in the video since he’s working with a multilayer board.

    244. Hi Lee Devlin, first of all congratulations for your amazing and detailed article. I had this problem on my KV-32FQ86E about two years ago, TV would not start without that blinking error of high voltage (replaced one MCZ3001DB solved) … I was with the TV on for tree days and the error came back, the big difference is that now only turns off after a few hours … When shutting down normally can see something like a “blue circle” until stay fully dark. Maybe the flyback transformer or MCZ3001DB again? Thanks a lot for your support

    245. SONY KV-32FQ86E Service Manual

      http://pt.scribd.com/doc/100875692/SONY-KV-32FQ86E-SERVICE-MANUAL

    246. well had someone else do the soldering and it is still blinking 7 times
      i also noticed that one of the chips i removed is a MCZ3001d and the other is MCZ3001db and the chips i replaced them with are both the MCZ3001db does that matter that one chip is not the same as the replacement chip

    247. Just wanted to say that I’m another happy end user of this fix. My TV would do either 6 or 7 blinks depending on how it was feeling and also on occasion would actually work. Well I ordered the chips & sockets from Amazon, picked up some .05 solder and set to work this afternoon. Everything went rather smooth with only one hiccup of dropping a screw down where the high voltage wires go. I found EEVblog’s soldering tutorial helpful as well since this was the first time I’ve done PCB style soldering. Tutorial #2 to be specific: http://youtu.be/fYz5nIHH0iY

      Thank you very much for writing up the process, very glad I don’t have a 200Lb paperweight now!

      Alison – Both my original chips were MCZ3001D’s and I replaced them both with DB’s. I was hesitant at first as well, but they worked for me.

    248. Lee,
      Just fired it up after “studying” your website for the last week and worrying about the process. WORKS!! Actually was a lot easier than I thought if you take the time to read all your posts for additional info. Had to send the wife away while I fixed it though as she has seen failed repair projects in the past and witnessed fits of rage.
      Anyway, thank you very much for taking the time to help out fellow Sony owners.
      Now I can watch football the rest of the day and then watch the Giants whip up on the Cards again in the NLCS…..
      One tip on getting to the hard to reach screw under the CRT: the whole panel will slide out enough to get an easier bite on it.

    249. FREAKING AMAZING- First, thanks Lee for such a detailed and helpful post. Could not have done without you. I’d also like to thank the individuals who posted the Schematics for Free url and another person who related their solution to a melted trace.

      I thought I had botched the desoldering. No, I did botch it. I was over confidant and melted a trace on pin 2 of the 8002 chip. Thought I was screwed but the schematics for free website told me where the trace went and was able to solder an insulated piece of telephone wire form pin to resistor. Not very pretty but it WORKED. A little bummed as I was resigned to buying a new flat screen.

      I will relate a bit of info that I learned while acquiring the chips. I had ordered the required chips from Suburban Electronics but they canceled the order. I called to ask why and the salesman told me straight that they had had too many of these chips fail. They were sending theirs back and weren’t going to stock them anymore. I noticed that TriState lists them as ‘Out of Stock’. I mention it because of the folks that had a disappointing result. One reason could be that the replacement chip is bad.

      I bought my chips on E-Bay from NY TV repair. Bought 3 to be safe and they are all good but clearly some are not and only a few folks are reporting no luck. Makes you wonder. One other observation is that I replaced both the chips at 8002 and 6501, but only the one in the 8002 position was bad. I reinstalled the chip from the 6501 position with one of the new chips and the TV works fine. Sockets are a great idea. I plan to use the new chips and save the old one as a spare.

      Now, I have to wait for my buddy to come by so we can carry it back inside.

    250. Lee,

      Another post from another satisfied “customer”. We need more sites like this instead of so many sites that claim to be free (and informative), yet are only geared toward taking your money with their “claims” of connecting you with a “trained expert”. How do we know whether the money we drop to talk to the man behind the curtain will actually help us with the answers we need? That’s supposed to be the wonderful thing about the Internet…it’s free…except for the money we pay our ISP, Cell Phone Provder, etc. Enough of my whining. Your solution was dead on,save for the added info. from Doug above. Removing two more screws and sliding out the bottom tray allowed a significantly greater amount of space to access the screws holding the D Board down, and also allowed itto be mounted vertically as you show in your photos. THANKS!

    251. One would think that since this has been such a widespread problem on these models that SONY would do some sort of recall or something. For this many to have the same problem… Isn’t this grounds for a RECALL????

    252. I have a KV-34HS510 that’s about eight years old and had the same issues (6 blinks) as noted above. Desoldered the ICs and installed new sockets and chips. Still had the 6 blinks. I can’t believe I didn’t notice before replacing the chips, but the capacitors near the chips all have black goo (somewhat rubber in texture)coming from the bottom of them. Any suggestions? I could replace them, but I fear the issue is more than just the capacitors.

    253. That black goo is actually a rubbery silicon adhesive to keep the capacitors from vibrating and breaking their connections. It’s not related to anything that is coming out of the capacitor. Typically, when electrolytic capacitors fail, they “puff out” at the ends and the material they leak looks like oil that hardens like a varnish once it gets outside the capacitor. Having said that, TriState Module recommends changing those caps at the same time as the chips, since they can fail, but so far, no one has responded to this posting that they have replaced the chips, still had the issue, and then replaced the caps and that fixed it. So no guarantees that it is the capacitors that need changing.

      If you can test the caps for shorts that would be worthwhile, but also make sure that the chips you installed are in the right orientation with pin 1 facing toward the edge of the board, have all the legs in the socket holes (and not folded under), and that pins 13 and 17 of the sockets are either clipped off or not making any electrical contact with the board. Check the soldering for shorts, cold solder joints, and the board for disconnected cables.

    254. Hi Lee, i have sony kd34xbr960. My problem is the tv intermittently turns off, flashing 6 or 7 times. After i start the tv, sometimes it turns off shortly thereafter, sometimes it stays on all night. Myvuetion is donthesevsymptomsvreuire the replacement of the two ic’s thank you

    255. Hi Louis, Sometimes the problem comes on intermittently and gets worse over time. In my case, it happened suddenly and didn’t work once I noticed the problem, but there have been many reports of people living with the issue for months before it became permanent.

    256. Our 40″ would turn on, then you would quickly hear a “POP” and it would turn off. Then you could sometimes turn it on again and it would stay on. But ultimately it stopped turning on altogether.

      I now have the parts and tools to do the repair. Now it’s just a matter of making the time to do it….

    257. wendy in key largo

      Wow Lee! I was a technical writer in a previous life and I must say that if you aren’t a tech writer by trade, you definitely have a fall-back career if ya need one!

      I found your post while searching for a fix for my Wega. No blinking lights though. Every 10 minutes or so, the set just shuts itself OFF for about 2 minutes and then just blips back ON.

      I’m thinking that it might be the #@!*! bulb.

      Anywho… I think it’s wonderful that you have shared your knowledge with so many people. Your patience is incredible by the way… it’s evident that some folks don’t thouroughly read your initial instructions… but you still kindly repeat yourself for them… over & over (!)

      I live on an island in FL and always try to fix things myself before caving in and driving to the mainland.

      Best Regards – wendy

    258. It would help if one is good at soldering…. I have little experience doing it. And I probably ruined my board trying to do this repair. So, if you have little experience doing this sort of thing, you should probably just remove the board and take it along with the new parts to a good TV shop or other place that can do soldering, and let them handle the actual job as far as that part of it goes.

      At least I have all the parts needed to do the repair! LOLOL

      I am taking my board to a shop tomorrow. Hopefully they can still repair it.

    259. Another very satisfied customer. It works, it really works. Thank you Lee for publishing this extrememly comprehensive repair for a problem that has obviously effected many people.
      We need more guys like you on this planet.

    260. Does anyone know anybody who buys back circuit boards out of the tv’s to fix or use as parts? I had a 6/7 blink problem with my Sony Wega KD36XS955 and tried everything but it still doesn’t work. I figure it must be more than one thing wrong with it. I was able to get a “Repaired” working DZ board that supposively does work so I have that to get rid of. Along with possibly gutting out all the boards in the TV and selling them to someone who may have a use for them. (That way I won’t be just throwing away boards someone else could possibly use).

    261. You can sell TV parts on eBay all day long. There are zillions of listings of used TV parts on there. That’s where I bought the replacement board I ruined while trying to do this repair.. LoL because I suck at soldering.

    262. Well, meaning I ruined my original board. So I searched eBay and finally found a replacement. Waiting for it to arrive.

    263. Lee,

      First of all, thanks for the very detailed information you provided. Even though I don’t have the same model as you do, it made me wonder if I could apply the same fix to mine which is experiencing similiar issues.

      I have a Sony KF-50WE610 model TV and it’s having the same 6 blink issue that you described. After reading the info you provided, I decided to open the back and take a look. The power supply in my model comes from the G1 board rather than the D board as in your model. However I discovered that it uses the same IC model MCZ3001DB but there is only one of them rather than two. And as with yours, pins 13 and 17 on mine are also not soldered to the board.

      After researching the internet, I found that the 6 blink code on my model identifies an issue with the G1 power supply board. However, I would like to attempt a similiar fix before I pay for an expensive G1 board. If the fix doesn’t work or I ruin the board in the process, I would still have to buy a new G1 board so I figure I have nothing to lose.

      So before I order the IC and attempt the repair, I have a few questions that I hope you or anyone else reading this post can answer:

      1) Do you know if the 6 blink code on my model identifies the same issue as the 6 blink code on yours (possibly pointing to the same fix)?

      2) When you were troubleshooting the issue with your model, how did you determine it was the two IC’s that were causing the problem your TV was experiencing?

      3) Do you have any insight as to what the chances are that replacing the single MCZ3001DB IC on my G1 board will repair the 6 blink code issue?

      Thanks in advance for any additional info you can share.

    264. After basically ruining my D Board- while attempting this repair, I took the board over to a local electronics repair shop. The friendly technician (who REALLY knows how to solder) make it look soooo easy. What took me hours, took him seconds/minutes.

      Just watching him fly through the act of soldering blew me away. It took him almost no time to remove the mess I made and tell me, “Yes, you ruined the board…”. LOLLL

      With that said, if you have little experience soldering anything, I recommend you take your board to a local shop, and their tech will probably have the whole chip replacement done in no time – that would take us less-experienced folk hours to attempt – and only realize that we were in way over our head to do soldering.

      I’m sure that any small, local, electronics repair shop could handle this task easily.

      It will save you hours of agony and frustration. And you will support the ‘little guy’.

      The rest of this repair is not difficult. But the solder-job can be – IF you have little to no experience doing it.

    265. Hi TBD, The repair I describe here is for a CRT (picture tube) version of the Sony Wega TV. It appears from your model number you have a rear projection model. I’ve never heard of this repair (i.e., replacing the MCZ3001DB ICs) done on a rear projection TV, but I did get a trackback a while ago from Greg Smith who fixed his rear projection model that was blinking 6 times by replacing a thermal fuse. He described the procedure in a blog posting on his website. In my own case, I searched the Internet and found various postings in forums related to Sony Wega TVs with model numbers similar to mine and after a while of reading through them, I felt that this fix was worth a try. I didn’t find any site that had it all written up in one place with pictures, so after I completed the repair and it worked, I decided to write about it here. Just to re-iterate, this fix is for the CRT model, not for rear projection models, so I’d check on Greg’s site and see if that doesn’t look like a better description of your issue.

    266. I’ve got the chips and sockets on the way to do this repair. I want to remove the board and have someone better than I do the soldering. How do the wires disconnect from that large thing at the bottom corner of the board? It looks like two of them can disconnect from the very back of the picture tube, but the one heavy red wire that goes to the suction cup thing on the tube – how can I disconnect that?

    267. Hi Scott,

      If you search Google with the phrase, “sony d board disconnecting flyback” you’ll find some hits along with advice. They indicated that it’s possible to pull back the rubber boot, push the cable in and twist it 90 degrees counter clockwise and it should release because it’s held in with a spring mechanism. I saw that others simply cut and re-spliced the wires together afterwards after giving up on figuring out the trick to get the wire out of the connector.

    268. Just pull the rubber suction cup-looking thing back a tad and you will see that the connector can be removed with just a little manipulating. I do not recommend cutting that red wire though unless you can re-splice it properly. A heap of power goes through that big red wire. If you merely twist and wirenut that big red wire you will hear all kinds of ‘power’ making little popping noises when you turn the TV back on. Been there done that. There is a reason why that red wire cannot touch other surfaces inside the TV. It has that big round spacer-thing on it for a reason.

      Just look under the suction-cup thing and you will see how that connector can be removed. It’s not that big a deal to do.

    269. All Fixed! I tried the twist and pull to remove those wires, but had no luck. So I did the repair with the board in place just like Lee did. Turned out to be much easier than I had thought. Used a good solder iron (with temp readout set at 700 degress F) and solder sucker that I borrowed. Worked like a charm, took less than an hour to remove the old chips, solder in the sockets and insert the new chips. Total cost $13.88 (got the chips and sockets from Ebay). I would recommend using a magnifying glass to check your soldering. (I had to use one and use my 2x reading glasses too!) Thanks Lee!!!

    270. Hi Lee Devlin,

      First of all congratulations for your amazing and detailed article. I had this problem on my KV-32FQ86E about two years ago, TV would not start without that blinking error of high voltage (replaced one MCZ3001DB solved).

      Nowadays the TV seems to have the image “closing”, especially when changing channel, only works 10 hours before getting the high voltage error …

      Maybe the flyback transformer or MCZ3001DB again???

      Thanks a lot for your support

    271. Thank you so much for this reference guide. You are a life saver!
      I had the dreaded 7 blinks like everybody else on an the KV-36XBR800.
      I got the IC’s and sockets from Amazon ($17.00), followed your detailed instructions, and I have the set up and running again, Back to its original pristine picture.
      You are a life saver.
      Thank you very much!!

    272. Thank you for the great write-up. My KV34HS420 just developed this problem this past week after 8 years. I’m very happy to have your instructions as I’m in between jobs right now so buying a new tv or a costly repair isn’t in the budget. I’ll going to order parts and give this a try soon then I’ll report back.

    273. If you clip pins 13 and 17 prior to putting in the socket, will that have any affect on it? and do you clip the pin on the chip to?

    274. I’d clip the pins on the socket and leave the chip alone. In my case, I just left the pins on the socket and I didn’t solder them and everything worked, but for those who didn’t pay attention and soldered these pins, things did not work and so, in at least one case, he popped out the ICs out of the sockets and clipped their legs and re-installed them and then it started working because it was easier to do it than having to remove the board and unsolder pins 13 and 17 of the sockets.

    275. I have a Sony Trinitron KV-36XBR400H that will not turn on. I have the “D” board out and have located the ICs but noticed that there are no unsoldered pins on either IC. I would assume that I should solder all the pins in both sockets and then install the ICs without clipping any of the legs on the ICs.

    276. According to the pinout for the IC, there shouldn’t be anything connected to those pins inside the chip but there are multiple versions of this chip and it could be that some versions left them floating, and perhaps in other cases maybe they were grounded. I’m just speculating here. We’ve had one or two reports in the comments which specifically mentioned that soldering those pins created a problem that went away after the solder was removed (or the legs clipped). It may also be that there were multiple versions of the D board on Sony TVs and in some cases, it made no difference whether the pins were soldered and in other cases, it required them not to be soldered. I’d try it without soldering them, since they are not supposed to be connected to anything inside the chip or on the board and it therefore would be safer to leave them unsoldered and not touching anything.

    277. It would seem to me that I could solder all the pins of the sockets then install the ICs and check to see if the TV works. If it doesn’t then I could clip the two legs of the IC and re-install hoping that this would fix the problem. This way if they are supposed to be soldered it should work without clipping the legs.

    278. Thanks for posting this detailed fix. Just finished the repair on my 9 year old Sony and so far, it is working fine.

      FYI, got the replacement IC’s and sockets from B&D Enterprises in Russell, PA. Ordered on a Friday afternoon and in my mailbox in Texas Monday morning. Less than $18 shipped.

      73

    279. great post — could not have done it without your attention to detail.

      if i’m # 74 and my tv roughly weighs 220 lbs you’ve just saved 16280 lbs. of toxic crap from the landfill.

      you rock.

    280. Thanks!!! My tv has had this problem for awhile now. Hopefully it’s fixed by Xmas I else I’ll get a new tv. Mines a 30 inch sony tv.

    281. Hi Lee Devlin,

      First of all congratulations for your amazing and detailed article. I had this problem on my KV-32FQ86E about two years ago, TV would not start without that blinking error of high voltage (replaced one MCZ3001DB solved).

      Nowadays the TV seems to have the image “closing”, especially when changing channel, only works 10 hours before getting the high voltage error …

      Maybe the flyback transformer or MCZ3001DB again???

      Thanks a lot for your support

    282. Same thing on my 30 inch tv. The images close when there’s darkness.

    283. This was and exellent instructional article.
      Thank you very much. I was able to repair my tv in less than 1 hour with this fix.

    284. Hi Morpheus and Justin,
      I haven’t heard of the issue with the image ‘closing’ being fixed by replacing the MCZ3001DB chips (but perhaps I am not sure what you mean by ‘closing’). It’s generally only known to work when you get a 6 or 7 blinking code and the TV won’t stay on. Sometimes this issue happens suddenly, other times gradually by getting worse over time.

    285. Hi Lee,

      I mean the image takes a while to “respond” you can see it “closing” (shrinking) and going back to normal. The more time passes the more intense the situation. Also you can hear the static electricity in the cathode ray tube increasing. After about 6 hours shutdown with the blinking of high voltage error.

      Thanks a lot for your support

    286. Thanks Morpheus. I’m planning on getting a new TV set soon after this weekend. A 1080p 42 inch 3d vizio with two 3d glasses and a sound bar. It’s an led LCD tv that’s thinner than the bulky Sony tv. Are Sony tvs recyclab?

    287. I changed both IC chips and it did not solve the problem…capacitors and resistors are fine.

      Does anyone know where I can purchase a new D board for a KD34xbr960 ?

    288. Hi Morpheus, That sounds like it’s a different issue to me than the one that is fixed with the new MCZ3001DB chips. There could be a problem with the flyback transformer since that’s what generates the high voltage to the tube and if you see the size of the image varying unexpectedly, then you may need a new flyback transformer (or perhaps a whole new D-board).

    289. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you! This fix worked for me and saved me a ton of money. Lee, You Rock!!

      The problem started for me last month on my 8yr old KV34HS420. For about 3 weeks I had to hit the power button twice to get it to turn on. Then it got real bad for a couple days where I had to cycle it repeatedly for 10 minutes until finally it completely stopped firing up the tube. 6 and 7 blink code errors.

      I’m a computer desktop support guy by trade so am comfortable pulling boards but had no circuit board soldering experience since we just replace boards when they go bad. The only soldering experience I had prior to this is hacking audio speaker wires together. I was a little nervous about screwing up the board, but figured I had nothing to lose trying this fix.

      Ordered the sockets, chips, Blue Sucking Vacuum solder sucker, Weller 25w iron and Kester 60/40 solder off Amazon for under $45.

      Researched and watched videos on how to solder including this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3XeEn2ENYj0

      Practiced with a socket on an old network card I had laying around. Admittedly, that didn’t go so well because I missed some of the solder and broke the socket, but I did start to get “the feel” for desoldering.

      The TV fix was actually fairly easy. I used the chisle tip for soldering/desoldering to remove the old chips. Surprisingly, removing the solder on the chips was much easier than on the NIC. I was able to just push them out by the pins after desoldering and using a small screwdriver to push the pins to the side to break them loose.

      I used the point tip for soldering on the new sockets. I chose to redo a few of the solders because they didn’t look great but overall this was easy too. Took my time to thoroughly inspect the solders and clean the flux afterwards before remounting the board.

      I spent a lot more time than someone with previous solder experience would have to complete this project but i won’t say it was difficult at all. Just had to get in there and try it. And what a great feeling of accomplishment when she fired up on the first try!

      Thanks for the great write-up!

    290. Thank you Lee for the pictures. Our TV failed about 3 months ago. Wife and I were looking to replace the TV. Very fortunate I found this link and the detailed comments from all of folks here. I replaced the chips overnight on Christmas Eve, best gift for myself and family. During the process, I took out one solder of the resistor to pin-18 on IC6501, thank goodness I was able to place solder back on it. This is my first soldering experience and I didn’t have a chance to practice on another board. I think I have applied heat longer than needed, the area has a slight yellowish/brownish coloring. I did not bother to put the inside screw back on the D-board eventhough it didn’t take me more than 5 minutes to get it out. The TV is working now. However, when we power up the TV, I see 3 normal pace blinking lights follow by a quick 4th one. Has anyone notice similar on their TV and should we be concerned about this? Again, thank you very much for this great article and everyone who contributed with their details.

    291. I tried your fix, so far so good. My first attempt failed, so I went back and re-solder the base, but that did not fixed it. Then arbitrarily I decided to put back one of the old ICs in the base of IC 8002, and to my surprise it worked.

      My guess is that one of the new ICs was bad or was sitting wrongly in the base.

      As the beast is huge and I don’t have space to spare I put it back together. The set has been on for about one hour.

      Let us pray!

      The SONY KD-34XBR360 has a beauty on the image that I have not been able to find any matching LCD or plasma with similar quality.

    292. This is my second go around with the 6 blinks of death. First time I paid just under $300 to have it fixed and requested they install sockets, when I went to fix it this time, I found they put the new chips directly on the board.

      After some soldering practice, I performed the fix using sockets. The good news is the six blinks are gone. The bad news is the TV still won’t start. Now it gives three long blinks (normal start up) then there is an audible click, then nothing…no fast diagnostic blinks. It makes the normal start up fart noise (sorry, I don’t know the correct term) from a cold start, but nothing shows on the screen and there is no static electricity (arm hair test). Any ideas?

    293. Hi Lee,

      Thanks very much for your diagnosing the IC problem. I replaced both IC’s about 2 weeks ago and the set (34xbr910) has been working great. I prefer the color and viewing angle to modern flat screen TV’s.
      I used to fix radios in high school, but hadn’t done a solder repair for many years. The tip earlier in this forum to first resolder the old IC pins with new solder before using the solder sucker really saved time. I clipped the unused pins off the sockets. The only ‘problem’ was kneeling on the floor while doing the work!

    294. 1st MUCH thanks this was the problem with my set and its now back up and working. Do want to ask why pull the board at all ? If with some help you flip the TV forward onto a towel and pull the cover the D board is completely open on the backside while still mounted. If you need to move it there are 2 clips in the plastic one on each side release these and the entire board system slides out. If you do want to pull the board this makes the screw under the tube easy to get to.

    295. Just wanted to start by giving a huge thanks to Lee for taking the time to provide a detailed resolution to this problem. If donations are an option I’d be happy to contribute for the time and money you have saved many on this page.

      Like many, I was ready to send my TV to the recycler until I found this site. I’ve always loved the quality of picture on my KV32hv600 but wasn’t willing to shell out the cash to have it fixed. For $22 (2 circuits, 2 sockets and a solder sucker) and after about 2 hours of work, I had a working TV! I’ve only soldered a few things in my life so I wasn’t that confident. I followed Lee’s directions to a tee and was surprised at how easy it was!

      Thanks again Lee!

    296. Thank you!!
      It worked to fix our 8 year old tv which would have been junked for sure
      The only thing I had a hard time with was removing the old chips
      Just a thought but how about adding those great soldering tips on the instructions (of course I found them on some of the other postings after I was done)
      Thank you again!

    297. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you, for such detailed instructions. They were very clear and easy to understand. We have our wonderful TV back.
      I have never worked on a circuit board and I have never done any de-soldering. Once I practiced a little and figured out how to use the solder sucker, it was fairly easy.

      It is very rewarding to have fixed this problem myself, I never would have attempted it until I saw your web site. Thank you again for taking the time to post such detailed instructions!

    298. I would like to report that I was able to fix my Sony Trinitron KV-36HS500 last Friday using your excellent instructions. Thanks a great deal for taking your time to write up this guide and for making the ICs and sockets available. My TV was up the first try. A wonderfull experience!!! Thanks again.

    299. PLEASE TAKE MY SET FOR FREE!

      Anyone in the Philadelphia area can have my set for free. I’m not going to do the repair and can’t move it around by myself anyway (201 lbs.). Model KV-34XBR910. With remote and manual. You’ll need a small truck or van (and two people to carry it). It’s four feet from my front door, three steps down to the sidewalk and street.

      jrusso2000@gmail.com

    300. Hi John, A lot of the traffic to this repair article comes from Craigslist from people like you who just want to get rid of the TV and don’t want to try the repair. If you want someone to take it, advertise it on Craigslist or Freecycle and you should have someone interested in it if they think it can be repaired without too much trouble. Advertising it here is unlikely to find you a taker because this audience is from everywhere in the world.

    301. Thank you, Lee!

    302. A note of thanks:

      We were about ready to scrape our KV-40HBR800 when I found your posts. For about $50 for the sockets, chips and soldering tools, and a few hours, it works great. Although I haven’t tempted fate by turning it off yet.

      To disconnect the “drawbridge” connectors that connect the D-board to the adjacent board, I used a hook tool available from Crutchfield:

      http://www.crutchfield.com/p_042DM3022/Pro-Fit-Hook-Tool-Set.html

      You just hook the black plastic edge facing you and pull gently at an angle until it releases.

      It may be because I have the 40″ model but the screw under the CRT was easy to remove with a screw bit in a deep socket.

      Before removing anything, I used a very soft bristle brush to loosen the dust while I vacuumed everything I could reach. It may be our imagination but cleaning the center speaker assembly seems to have improved the sound.

      Thanks again,
      PB

    303. Christina in Prescott, AZ

      Hi Lee,
      I have the Sony Wega model KDF-E55A20 – LCD Projection tv manufatured in 2005. I have the 6 blinking red light syndrome as well. Do you recommend replacing the IC’s or the thermal fuse?
      Thank you for any advice you can offer.
      Christina

    304. Hi Christina, The fix described here is for the CRT model, not for the rear projection model. I don’t think it works for that model, but there is another article on the web that describes the thermal fuse, which you can find here: http://alwaysverybusy.net/resolving-the-6x-red-blinking-light-of-death-on-my-sony-tv-with-pictures/

    305. Lee,
      My Sony Wega (KD-34XS955) died as described, no display, diagnostic blink codes of 6 & 7. I was bummed since it has always had such a great picture and was not looking forward to replacing it just yet. I found your site and ordered the chips and sockets. They arrived very quickly, BTW. Parts replaced…fingers crossed…power on. Good as new!!!
      Great web page. Thanks for posting it.

    306. OK,I’m going to give this a try. My Sony KV-36XBR800 has been having trouble coming on lately and I did the research and found out that I have the 6-7 diagnostic blinking issue. I haven’t sodered anything since I was a kid playing with my Dad’s 1970′s sodering iron (man that thing burned!). So I’ll need some tips on what to buy/use. I’m pretty handy but my only electronics experience is replacing computer parts.

    307. Lee thank you for your inspiring and technically “right on” instructions. I have joined the ranks of rookies that have successfully breathed new life into a Sony that was headed to the dumpster. You deserve an award for your public service but all I can offer is my sincere thanks for your help!

    308. Thanks Lee,
      Worked like a charm. I was looking forward to a new flat screen, though I don’t have the cash for one, but now my ole Sony works great. Thanks to you… I’m really impressed you have taken the time and effort to put all this together. I ordered the chips on a Saturday afternoon and they arrived Monday!! Had my tv working that night(I had already done some prep). If you are considering tackling this don’t be afraid just follow Lee’s directions and you will be fine..
      Thanks again, Curtis.

    309. First and foremost, Lee, Thank you for this concise, effective guide and even more thanks for continuing to follow up on user replies almost 2 years after creating it!

      My KD-34XBR960 is one of my most cherished electronic possesions and am very much looking forward to (and crossing my fingers) on resolving my 7-blink situation without professional service, especially considering I only paid $200 for it (VERY lucky eBay local-pickup-only sale, only 10-20 hours of use!!).

      For those having issues with the pesky board screws located under the monitor, this (or any cheap variant) is a must have:

      http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-pc-bit-wrench-set-ratchet-screwdriver/p-00941716000P

      If the right-angle ratchet is slim and operates smooth while paired with a a 2″ #2 Philips bit, you should have a lot less trouble removing them. Hope this helps, thanks again!

    310. The guy who gave me the Sony KV34HS420 for free off Craigslist told me it had some sort of powering up problem, that there was information about a fix on the internet, and it didn’t seem so tough. So I took the TV home, hauled its 200+ lbs. up the stairs, plugged it in & it worked great. For a couple months. Then it started up with the blinking. Made my way to this site & just tried the fix today. I’ve got the 3 blinking light / no startup problem.

      This being a freebe TV, I wanted to spend as little as possible, and tried the job with a cheapo crappy solder pump (broke after the first chip), and grungy old soldering iron. I definitely gouged out some of the tracing on the board when trying to get the chips out.

      Is it worth it to try to salvage this thing? Or should I just put it out on the curb? It’s a great TV, when it works.

    311. Hi Doug, I’ve had reports from people who, after completing the repair, found that the set blinked 3 times instead of the 6/7 blinks. In several cases, they were able to fix it by repairing their soldering (or having a more experienced person do it). I include these tips at the end of the instructions that I send with the chips:

      If the fix didn’t work the first time, I always advise using these troubleshooting tips:

      Check for any cables that didn’t get re-attached after re-assembly.

      Make sure pins 13 and 17 are not soldered and not making electric contact between the board and the IC.

      Check for missing solder or cold solder joints. The solder joints should be shiny, not dull and there shouldn’t be any voids between the pins and the solder. A cold joint will have a dull appearance. Use a magnifying glass to inspect your work.

      Check for solder bridges. A solder bridge is when the solder connects two pins or traces that should not be connected. Some solder wick (available at any RadioShack) is good for removing solder from these bridges although it is not useful for getting solder out of holes in the board, that’s what the solder sucker excels at. But for removing bridges, it can’t be beat. If you’ve never used solder wick, YouTube has some short videos on the topic.

      And if you are using a grungy old iron that isn’t working, I recommend a low wattage (15W – 25W) pencil-type soldering iron with pointy tip to avoid overheating the board. Overheating the board is usually what causes the traces to get damaged.

    312. Thanks to your info I’ve managed to replace both chips in my 2005 sony kv-34hs420 with sockets and new chips. It brought my tv back from the land of 7 blinks. I found that the Radioshack Desoldering Iron worked absolutely flawlessly for desoldering the chips. This was also my first time ever desoldering/soldering anything. I honestly think getting out that one screw and the front cable plugs next to it more difficult than the desoldering/soldering! But if anyone wants their great Sony tv back, take heart that this repair is totally do-able! Remember to double check everything before plugging in the tv. I caught one of the chips being in backwards and was able to correct it.

    313. Thanks for this walkthrough with the pictures. Looking at this board is a nightmare but I managed to repair it and am looking forward to another few years out of my TV. Amazing they didn’t spend the .03 cents on the dummy chips in the first place to make inserting and replacing the ICs easier.

      For reference, I also left out the screw that is nestled between a heat sink and a capacitor underneath the CRT because there was no way I could get it back in. The D board isn’t going anywhere and the TV works fine.

      Thanks again for this website and the link to buy the chips; very very handy.

    314. Brought my XBR960 back to life, thanks to Lee and the rest of the users who replied! Only $25 total for all parts. The solder sucker is without a doubt necessary for this as Lee indicated. Didn’t run into any problems during the repair process, fortunately.

      Thanks again!

    315. Thanks for the prompt delivery of the chips and sockets.

      I removed the D board last night and will be replacing the chips tonight. I am not sure if anyone else discovered this but the two main boards are screwed to a plastic tray that slides out from underneath the CRT. There are two tabs at the forward corners of the tray that need to be unhooked and then the tray, with boards attached and all, will slide out about 6-8 inches providing easy access to all of the screws holding the D board down.

      I have never desoldered anything from a board and Haven’t soldered anything since I was a kid but am looking forward to a successful install.

      Thanks for the how to Lee. I got quoted $355 for this including a power supply but if it works have only spent $34 on your chips and a desoldering tool! I will be a big hero to my girlfriend and her Mom for this! ;-)

    316. Trying to locate a PDF of my Sony
      Mod.#KV-40XBR800
      I thought I had saw a reference to this somewhere in the above instructions. But maybe my tired old brain is deceiving me.
      Anyone know where I can find the PDF for this model?
      PS. This was by far the best repair instructuions and Photos of any website I have ever visited. Thanks for the nice job Mr.Devlin

    317. Thanks, this worked for my KV-34HS420. The wife and I had some quality bonding time learning how to solder.

    318. Encountered the 7 blink code a couple of weeks ago when the TV would not turn on anymore. Came across this page and read the remedy to the problem. Read all of the comments as well. I have never soldered before but was willing to try this. Ordered the replacement chips, sockets, a 30W soldering iron, and a spring loaded solder sucker from Amazon. 35 bucks total. Watched a couple of videos on YouTube on how to desolder using a solder sucker. After practicing removing some chips and sockets on an old Sound Blaster 16 sound card, I felt ready to try fixing the TV. It literally took me three hours total from taking the cover off, replacing the chips, and putting the cover back on. I took my time with this as I was trying to be very careful with everything. Plugged everything into the TV, turned it on, and it stayed on.

      Lee, thank you for these instructions! They are dead on. Saved me from running out and buying a new set when I wasn’t quite ready.

      BTW…dont be afraid to get the solder sucker tip right up against the soldering iron…it really cleans out the hole well.

    319. Lee–

      Great advise and directions for the “fix.” I begin tomorrow with your walk-though advise and counsel, along with your great photos.

      I bought my Sony 36xbr800 Trinitron WEGA way back in 2002/03. It wasn’t cheap and has a great picture.

      Hoping to get a couple of more years out of her!

      Thank you.

      Barry, Washington the Apple State

    320. My model: KP-43HT20

      I removed the board, and found only one MCZ3001D chip, is this normal? Or did i remove the wrong board? Thank you for your time.

    321. This article is about the CRT model Sony Wega TVs. Your TV is a rear projection model. I don’t know if this fix will work for you. There is another article linked in the comments in several places that discusses a fix for the rear projection models.

    322. Hello Lee,
      Same as most others here my sony wega trinitron model kv-32hs500 (manufactured July, 2002) refused to turn on with six blink code on standby light. Not convenient to move this 180 lb. behemoth to service or to recycler.

      Came across your site with suggested repair. Ordered replacement chips w/sockets from your site. Purchased $40 soldering kit from Radio Shack, this kit had 25w iron, solder sucker, solder, etc., everything I needed to make repair. Total investment $60. Viewed electronic soldering sites for proper procedure.

      Removed cover, carefully rolled tv completely upside down on my old sofa, cut out plastic crossframe brace that blocked access to one of the chips. This method eliminates the need to disconnect anything or to remove the d-board, but may not work on other models. Desoldered old chips and soldered new sockets with chips in place.

      Been several days since repair, tv works fine, like having an ole friend back and pride in doing it myself. My eyes are 65 years old, a good magnifying glass to view work is a must.

      Lee, as my grandmother used to say “Thank you very much until you’re better paid”.

      David L.

    323. I started having the 6 or 7 blink code a long time ago on my Sony KD-30sx955. I set it aside for over a year and saw this page and decided to give it a try. I removed the IC chips and replaced it with the sockets and chips ordered through Mr. Devlin. I now have a 3 blink code instead. I did notice that one of my cables became unattached. It is a blue cable coming off the D board with a red cap. I believe that it is the ground cable. Does anyone know for sure if it connects to the board that is next to it?

      Any ideas what might be causing the 3 blink code?

      I guess the other question is how long will I need to wait before I can work on the set without fear of any electrical shock. Haha.

      Sorry for all the questions and thanks in advance.

    324. Hi Eliot, If you scroll back up into the comments left around July, 2012 you’ll see another person (Nick) who had that blue wire dangling and it resulted in a 3-blink code. Another reader directed him to this link: http://www.schematicsforfree.com/archive/file/Sony/Video/Sony%20Kv30Hs420.pdf and it shows on page 15 where that wire (called the G2 wire) needs to connect to the CH board.

    325. Thanks for the reply Lee. I looked at the schematic and was able to locate the connector I believe. Inside the red plug area there is a little metal clip that actually holds the blue wire inside. It is normally loose and I lost that metal piece inside. I just soldered the wire directly to the G2 connector but still no luck. Still does the 3 blinks.

      Is it possible that maybe bad solder contacts could cause this 3 blink error code? I assumed this had more to do with a power error.

      Lastly, how soon can I work on removing the D board again without fear of electrical shock. I know you stated 24 hours but I’ve read other articles that state that charges can remain.

      Thanks again.

    326. Hi Eliot, It’s possible that solder bridges, cold solder joints, loose cables can cause the 3 blink to occur. The ICs you replaced are PWM chips that help generate and control the various voltages on the D-board so if they aren’t working, then the TV won’t start. The most common issues to look for are solder bridges (i.e., connecting two pins that should not be connected) followed by forgetting to plug in all the cables. Also, make sure the chips are in the sockets correctly. There is a small half-circle notch on one end of the chip and it must be facing the edge of the board. If the chips are installed backwards, they can be destroyed if power is applied before you notice the error. Other issues are IC legs that don’t make it into the socket (they are folded under the chip). And pins 13 and 17 must be left unsoldered. But there are times when this repair doesn’t work, so it could be that some other component in the TV has gone bad.

      The TV is most dangerous when it is plugged into a wall outlet. Once you disconnect from the wall outlet, the really high voltages (like 15-25KV) can no longer be generated because the flyback transformer isn’t running. However, there are capacitors on the board that store energy and there’s no way to know how long those might take to bleed down. They don’t have enough energy to electrocute you, but can give you a nasty shock if you come in contact with a high voltage capacitor’s positive voltage and ground at the same time. If you have a volt meter, you can always measure the thing you’re thinking of touching and make sure it’s at 0 volts. If it’s not, just having the volt meter hooked up to it will bleed it down to ground eventually.

    327. Thanks for the quick replies Lee. Appreciate you taking the time to troubleshoot with me. I took the D board out and looked at all the solder joints and even touched some of them up. I took one last look at the chips and noticed exactly what you mentioned. One of the IC legs did not make it into the socket. I pulled it out and inserted it correctly. Bingo. The TV powered on and I was able to get it up and running.

      Thanks for this awesome page and thanks for making this whole process as easy as possible.

      Cheers.

    328. Hiya! I am excited to attempt this repair – I wonder, though, if you’ve ever considerd making a you tube video, going step by step, inserting the good close-up pics you already have… I do appreciate this page! I have a 34″ widescreen wega xbr that cost too much (as you said) to just throw away. And we can’t afford to go out and buy a new tv at this time. So thank you very much. I’ll be ordering from you the necessary parts – thanks for making that so easy for me too! Don’t have to waste time researching for parts.

      Wish me luck!
      ~Kelly

    329. KV36HS510~~~

      When the seven blinks start, and your CRT goes out does your TV sound still work ?
      On my TV I have seven blink code and NO sound nor picture.
      ALSO~
      I can only seem to find the MCZ3001D chips locally for $10. each. Do the “DB” chips really last longer than the earlier “D” chips ?
      Have many here have also had the “DB” chips also fail ?

      There is also a third MCZ3001D chip on my “A” board~~~
      Do these third “A” board chips also seem to also fail ?
      Should I also replace this third chip.
      How many here have also replaced the two capacitors & two fusable resistors ?
      Thank’s for your help !
      BRAD~

    330. Hey Lee, I want to thank you for the link. I Never did any soldering before. Ordered your chips & tools and was able to fix my 30 inch sony model #KV-30HS420. The T.V repair co. wanted $290.00 to fix it. Sony was trying to give me 15% off a new T.V. Thanks for saving me all that money.

    331. Hi Brad, When I had the 7 blink issue, my TV turned itself off, so there was no sound coming from it. I have never heard of the MCZ3001 chip on the A board failing. The ‘DB’ designation indicates that it’s a newer version of the chip and generally speaking, newer versions are supposed to be an improvement over the original version of a chip, but in my case the chips in my TV (manufactured in 2005) were already the DB model and they failed after 6 years.

      I have not had a single report in this comment thread of anyone who also replaced the fusible links or the capacitors. I can’t say it hasn’t happened, it’s just that it has never been reported.

    332. Thank’s Lee !
      I got my new chips & a few spares and I am going to try this chip fix this weekend .

      I have heard that when the two large electrolytic capacitors next to these chips start to get old they begin to start to slowly overload these pesky MCZ3001D/b IC chips to the point that they start to overheat and finally fail !
      I am also going to replace these “caps” because it is fairly easy when the pc board is in the up position for desoldering.
      Only two wires on each “Cap” can.
      Just make sure to get the new “cap” cans installed with the proper polarity +/- as original.
      The 1200 UF “Caps” are only about $2. each ! Higher voltage “caps” than original will have a much longer life span.
      Capacitors are almost always the weak link in any electronic circuit . Many failures of other electronic chips, and pc board parts can be directly related to old age, and partialy failing, “caps” causing current overload in the same circuit .
      Thank’s for your Great website !
      BRAD~

    333. I was on a business trip in Honolulu last week. I went in to a burger joint for lunch and when I came out there was a Sony KD-34XBR960 sitting there at the edge of the parking lot next to my car. I’m pretty sure it wasn’t there when I went in to eat. In my opinion that the is best CRT TV ever made. It appeared to be in excellent condition and I was thinking to myself that it probably is just a couple of MCZ3001DB chips away from working like new. I really wanted to take it home, but couldn’t think of a way to get that 200lb monster in my suitcase.

    334. Another successful Sony IC chip repair !
      I also replaced the two large caps also~~~just to be sure !

      After having the TV on and operatinal again for several hours, with the back still off, I found that these two new ic chips seem to run very very hot indeed !
      Far hotter than any similar ic I had ever seen before.

      I suspect the ic chips are being overworked, or loaded to their maximum working capacity in this sort of CRT TV application.

      I have thought of cementing several small finned aluminum heat sinks on top of these two new chips with epoxy to help cool them a bit . Radio Shack sells the heat sinks at under a $1. each.
      This might help prolong their lifespan~~~worth a try I guess ?

      At any rate I now have several spare MCZ3001d ic chips that I can now easily plug-in in the event of a future failure !

      From what I read online I strongly doubt the new supposedly upgraded MCZ3001″DB” chips last any longer than the original “D” chips ?
      Perhapps the “DB” chips are only just a later production re-run~~~and not improved version at all ?

      LEE~
      Thank’s for your great website & blog !
      Brad~

    335. These instructions were great! A “stubby” screwdriver isn’t required because the board slides back after releasing two metal clips that hold the board in place. My TV works like new! Although the TV doesn’t do 1080p and has the top and sides cut off a little, the TV has excellent color and sound. So it was definitely worth fixing.

    336. Lee,

      After viewing your page about this repair for at least a year. I finally got up the courage to attempt it. The local repair shop I went to from time to time went out of business last year, so I was weighing the option of attempting the repair myself or seeking out an unfamiliar repair shop further from home. I wasn’t looking forward at all to transporting this beast of a tv. Don’t get me wrong, I love it, but you definitely need a strong friend to move it up and down stairs. Anyway, I literally just plugged it in 10 minutes ago and when it came on, my first reaction was relief. However, my second reaction was to leave you some words of encouragement. With all of the comments to your page, it’s obvious that it has been a valuable resource to many Sony tv owners. Keep doing what you do and good things will be waiting in store for you.

    337. terry Hutchison

      Was wondering where you get those caps for 2.00? I ran a shop for 15 years and have had to replace those in about 1/3 of the sets that came in. If they are bulging replacing the IC’s will repair the set short term but repeat failure is guaranteed shortly. The sony originals cost close to $50.00 ea. They do not have the standard wire leads but off angled flat connectors. It is very easy to tell if they need to be replaced, look at the tops they will begin to bulge outward preparing to vent. If they are completely flat I would not bother replacing them.
      Closed my shop last December(retired) and my sons set just failed. I saved two of the chips for his set but do not have the caps. Going over there tomorrow to do the repair so don’t know if the caps are bad, just trying to get a head start on finding reasonable replacements.
      Thanks to anyone who can help

    338. I believe the two large caps might be the root cause of many of these infamous ic chip failures.
      When the caps begin to fail they overload the ic chips.
      No need to buy greatly overpriced “Sony”OEM caps that SONY is selling.
      Tristate module,triode, Newark, Arrow,Mosher,Avnet and many other web & catalog parts supply houses sell them at a very reasonable cost.
      Tristate module, who sells these ic chips & actuually repairs these “D” board pc board “modules” advises on their website, where they also sell the MCZ3001D ic chips, to replace these two large “caps” while doing the MCD30001D ic chip replacements.
      They also sell a related fusable resistor.

      Electrolytic Caps are almost always the weak link in any electronic circuit.

      Leaking & internally shorting older caps that are nearing the end of their usefull life span usually “take-out” other more expensive circuit parts such as ic chips when they are failing, or starting to fail in my experience.

      BRAD~

    339. Hey Lee:
      Success! I received the sockets, chips, and solder sucker 2 days after I ordered them from Lee and installed them on Saturday May 18th. I am very pleased to say that the TV turned on after the new chips were installed and it has been turning on and off with no problems ever since. I’m not too clear as to whether or not I’ve reset the standby codes properly. Does anyone know how to do it and confirm that it has been done?
      I am a very happy camper! Thanks to Lee for sharing his expertise and for delivering the parts with such haste.
      John.

    340. This fix worked perfectly and was not that difficult with some skill at soldering and desoldering.

      Thanks for the information and the parts, fast shipping and delivery!

    341. Lippythelion69

      easy fix 2 1/2 hours and had my 13 yr old son help
      Thank you
      Dean

    342. Lippythelion69

      no stand by codes
      plug in wait about 20 mins.

    343. Lippythelion69

      just make sure your socket holes are cleared i used a sewing needle.
      do not force sockets in you will push connecters out.

    344. Lippythelion69

      also i use white for marking chips
      always have a bottle in my tool box

    345. Success on a KV-36HS510. I’m fairly familiar with the insides of electronic things and I found your step-by-step instructions to be outstanding…made me look like a superstar to my wife. My one piece of advise–take your time and double-check that everything is well seated when you are reassembling. Use a flashlight and magnifying glass if needed…it will pay off when you hit that power button and hear that satisfying “buzz” and your set comes on. Thank you so much for your work putting all this together.

    346. Hey I just thought I’d share my experience and offer up a few tips for you all.
      First off, DONT cut the 3 wires from the flyback. I did and unless I can figure out a way to properly insulate the wires, the IC replacement might have been for nothing. A new flyback and wire doesn’t seem to be available anymore. I looked online for quite a while..
      2nd. Desoldering the IC isn’t as easy as you might think. I spend more than 2 hours trying before i got frustrated and cut the 3 wires. It wasn’t any easier once I had the board loose either. I tried both the wick and a suction device.
      3. Go to Radio shack and buy a 45 Watt Desoldering Iron part number 64-2060. It is a combination of a soldering iron and a suction device and it worked very quickly. I did in 15 minutes what I couldn’t do in 2 hours. 15 dollars well spent!
      4. Definitely go with the sockets.
      5. If you hear a snapping sound once you plug the tv back in, beware. There are 30,000 volts looking for a place to go. Because I cut my flyback wires and attempted to splice them, they found me. Not a pleasant experience

    347. Hi Rick, I was able to get the red wire with the suction cup off the CRT, but had no luck with the other two wires (one red and one blue) that go the board that is connected to the socket at the end of the CRT. And so I ended up fixing it in place. I think you’d have to unsolder them from that board to avoid cutting them. I read somewhere that wires are stripped and inserted into a one-way connector that grabs them and won’t let go on the flyback transformer.

      The anode wire with the suction cup has high voltage on it and has plastic circles around it to keep it from resting on anything that might draw an arc. If you re-insulated it and it still had a spark jump, you might be able to try several layers of heatshrink tubing over the splice that gradually increase in diameter. I’d re-cut the wire, install all of them and slide the smallest one into place, shrink it, then the next larger size, shrink it, etc., until you can get several layers on it and make sure to keep an air gap between that splice and anything else inside the TV>

    348. Fixed, exactly as you said, ordered the parts from Amazon for $10. Thank You.

      http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005QOOACY/ref=ox_ya_os_product

    349. I followed these instructions and they worked to a tee. TV fired right up the first time. I feel like an electrical marvel. Wife was actually impressed I could do it. She thought I was weird for even trying it.

      The hard part was getting the old chips out. I have no soldering experience, but was able to get it done.

      Thanks for the instructions….

    350. I’m about to attempt this repair on my monster Sony Trinitron KV-40XBR800. (40-inch; largest consumer HD CRT set ever built) I really hope this works…I love this TV to pieces!

    351. Is there any better explanation or pictures about the undoing of the latches around the D board and how to rotate it then into the vertical position? It sounds simple enough but I know when I start my attempt in a few days…nothing ever goes smoothly!

      Thanks!

    352. [...] a Smart TV? That’s a question that I got recently from a reader of one of my articles about fixing a Sony Wega TV. I think that even though she had gotten her HD TV back up and running, the thought of replacing it [...]

    353. i have a sayna about 3-4 years old we went to change the room around and after that the tv would just click one time and go off we turn it back on it would click off is there somthing i can do to fix for i don’t have what thay want to fix itit is a 42in flat screen. when we went to move it the HD cable end came off were it plugs in to the tv the end of the cable not the tv port but the cable cord end

    354. Well I am bummed! I had a plan to make the desoldering easier, I read about clipping the IC legs from the bad chips. After inspecting the board it looks like there won’t be any room to get the tool in there since there are a few components right nect to the chips.

      Has anyone tried this method?

      Thanks,
      Dan

    355. I would not recommend cutting the legs off the ICs. If you are careful in removing the chips via the solder sucker method then you will likely have a good spare you can use in the future should you need it.

    356. Alex Sokolovski

      Lee,

      if you count the amount of money you saved Sony Vega owners with your advice, one could probably purchase a decent vacation property :)

      Do you know if the “6 blink problem” can be solved the same way for a Sony KDL32S5100 (not a Vega)?

      Many thanks in advance!

    357. Thanks for these instructions Lee.
      I had the same problem (6 blinking lights) with my Sony Wega TV (Model KV-32HQ100E) and replace the two “MCZ3001DB” and the problem fixed.
      The ‘D’ board of my model isn’t the same with your model, but also includes two “MCZ3001DB”.

      Thanks!!

    358. Hi Alex, I don’t know if the newer LCD flat screen TVs use these chips or not. The KDL32S5100 is and LCD TV and this repair is for the older CRT technology TVs. These CRTs Wega models are sometimes also called ‘flat screens’ but only because the tubes they used were not rounded like older CRT models but rather flat, but they are large TVs some weighing over 200 lbs. and about 24 or more inches deep.

    359. Thanks for confirming that you were able to fix a KV32HQ100E model. The list of Sony models I show is not complete, and I generally add to it when I get confirmation that a model not previously listed was fixed by changing the MCZ3001DB chips.

    360. well….i did my best soldering and still 7 blinks. for me that radioshack desolder bulb tool worked 10000% better than the spring loaded sucker did.

      I will recheck my soldering work since it didnt seem like the solder wasnt sucked in most of the time….the solder iron never seemed to get the legs hot enough.

    361. Hello!

      I have the same TV and today ran into my first problem. Well I could say second since I might of dioscovered another today as well.

      A few weeks ago my remote just stopped working for the TV. It was a brand new GE universal remote. I changed the batteries and tried many solutions online to get it working and found nothing.

      Today I come home and turn the TV on and it works fine. After about 5 minutes it starts cvycling through everything. Switching Video Inputs, opening the favorites menu, going up on the channels, etc..

      At first I thought maybe a button was stuck so I checked them all and nothing. I toyed with the remote a bit and still it kept doing it.

      After a few hours or toying with it I got the remote to work and it stopped. Once again after some time passed, it went right back to do the same stuff and the remote not working.

      It seems to stop when I hit a bunch of buttons on the TV at once for a brief period of time.

      Any reason why this would just suddenly happen?

    362. Hi Lee. Thanks for the fix for the 6 blink code. I ordered the parts and found your steps above to be quite helpful. Once I got it put back together, I am getting a 4 blink code now, which says it has to do with the vertical deflection. Would you have the parts to fix that also by chance? I don’t want to buy a new TV just yet and would like to salvage this on if possible. It was rewarding to attempt the fix mentioned above and would like to try this one as well. Thanks!

    363. I have a RadioShack 35 watt soldering iron, is that strong enough to do the job? Thanks!

    364. Hi Greg, Sorry to hear that the fix didn’t work. Sometimes I get reports that the 6/7 blink will then turn into something else which might indicate that another part in the power supply board has gone bad and that it may have manifested itself by damaging one of the MCZ3001D chips, but in reality, it’s a different part that has failed first but it is masked by the fact that the MCZ3001D chips went bad as a result. I don’t know of any fixes for the other codes besides replacing the entire D-board which are only available as exchange parts on the Internet now.

    365. Hi David, Yes, 35W should be more than adequate to do the job. The main feature that I look for on a soldering iron is its ability to hold a consistent temperature. The inexpensive ones sometimes have a tendency to get too hot, and that can make it easy to damage the traces by lifting them off of the board. You want it just hot enough to melt the solder without putting too much heat into the surrounding components.

    366. Lee:

      I received your ICs, sockets, and solder pump just fine and applied the fix and now have a standby light blinking three times and the set won’t turn on. Is this a consequence of having installed the sockets and chips incorrectly or do you perceive another problem? I hate to give up on this set, which is a KV-40XBR800, because the picture and sound are awesome and the set is too large to dispose of easily.

      Sam

    367. Hi Sam, If you are getting 3 blinking lights after installing the chips, it could be due to a soldering issue, i.e., bridges, opens, or lifted traces. But it could also be due to some other problem on the board that was being covered up by a failed MCZ3001D chip which is now showing up instead. On a few occasions, I’ve had people report that after the fix they found that the set blinked a different number of times and sometimes they were able to fix it by having a person with good soldering skills clean up their work. But sometimes it can’t be fixed without changing the D-board. If you’re concerned with the difficulty disposing of a TV this size, in some cities there are businesses that specialize in recycling electronics that will pick it up for some nominal fee.

    368. this info was very helpful but I didn’t see anything about cost….and if I could do it myself. I am a senior without a good income.

    369. The cost is about $20 and yes, it is a DIY project if you know how to solder or are willing to learn it.

    370. Chalk up another success story. By following Mr. Devlin’s instructions and the helpful tips left by others in this thread, I brought our Sony KV-40XBR800 back to life. And I have no previous soldering experience. I found the de-soldering tool with the bulb to be perfect for this job. I had the chips out in no time. The soldering phase went mostly smoothly, but I did need to re-solder a couple of pins and eliminate an unintended bridge. I believe the big difference to a novice like me was using relatively thin solder (I used Simple Solder.) That way I avoided melting too much solder onto the connections. Oh, and I held the sockets in place while I was working with blue painter’s tape. Many thanks again to all who have contributed to this thread.

    371. Another satisfied customer! I started having problems with my Sony Wega not turning on after an extended power outage. Sometimes it blinked 6 times, sometimes 7 and occasionally 4.

      At first, it was occasional. Then it became daily. And then it was hit or miss whether or not my TV would come on. I would unplug it overnight and hope it came on the following evening. Finally, I left it on, changing to a black screen station at night.

      I sent to Lee for the chips and solder sucker. I borrowed a soldering iron from a friend at work and set aside my Saturday to work on the project.

      I didn’t have any problems with getting all the screws out, however, I wasn’t able to put 2 screws back into the upper back of the TV when I closed it up because they were recessed too far.

      Once the circuit board was accessible, I labeled the board and the plugs with numbers in black magic marker so I knew what went where. For me, the most difficult part was removing all the solder and getting the old chips out. I couldn’t get the chips out at first. I got the first one out after much tugging on the chip and reheating on the other side. I ended up leaving a few legs behind. The second chip I ended up breaking into 3 pieces to get it out after desoldering. Then I used the sucker on the chip side and the iron on the solder side to remove the rest of the solder and remaining legs. I would get a chip puller if I ever have to do anything like this again.

      Resoldering was a breeze. I used very fine solder and there was no bleeding. I heated the hole for a few seconds before touching the solder down and I got some very nice solder points using very fine solder. I also attached the chip to the holder before I did my soldering and I clipped the non-used pins from the holder before installation.

      I put the board back in place without securing it and plugged the TV in and – Voila! – it worked! I unplugged the TV and secured the board with some, but not all of the screws, put the back back on, rewired all the cables and I can now turn my TV off and on without any worries. I am so glad I found this website!

    372. Hi, I am grappling with the 7-blink code for a Sony WEGA Model KV-32XBR400 . I see that one person posted about it, but not specifically enough.

      1) I have found the MCZ3001D part at location IC8001. Good.
      2) I cannot find the MCZ3001D part at location IC6501. I downloaded the service manual for my model TV (see model above). The service manual refers to IC6501 as related to the secondary power supply and shows a logic chart, but I haven’t been able to locate the actual IC6501 location in reality (on the actual board).
      3) In seeking out IC6501, I came across another MCZ3001D part, but it is seated at IC6001.
      4) In searching around, I also noticed what appears to be a blown capacitor? I am not sure my terminology is right. It looks like the top 1/3rd of a AAA battery (in caliber and height) and has a lot of yellow goo that apparently goo’d out of the top and has leaked down the side. A ton of it. If I push the good with a long wooden shish-kabob skewer, it is solid (dry) and some flakes off.

      Anyone have advice for me? Should I bother with this project? Again, this is a 7-blink situation on KV-32XBR400 .

      Other things tried:
      1. Using the blow dryer worked the first time, but not on subsequent times.
      2. Removing the cover and getting rid of all dust was completed and did not help.
      3. Unplugging it for a day or 2 at a time only worked once or twice (before I tried the blow dryer trick).

    373. *push the “goo” (not good) out of the top

    374. Hi Margaret, If you see a capacitor with its electrolyte having leaked out, then that’s a component that has likely failed or is about to fail. Some people mistake the black rubbery stuff around the bases of some of the capacitors as the contents of the capacitor leaking out, but that is RTV that is put there for the purpose of keeping the capacitor from vibrating and breaking its legs during transport. If the top of the cap has bulged out and the stuff coming out is amber in color that looks like dried sap, you should write down the specs of the capacitor and replace it before going any further.

    375. Lee: thank you so much for your quick reply! Just to clarify:
      1. Yes, it’s coming from the top like yellow sap. So, I will replace that.
      2. Are you recommending that the 7-blink issue, in my case, possibly is due to just the blown capacitor? Therefore, I should replace it ONLY and see if the T.V. before attempting the replacement of IC’s? Might not need new IC’s?

      Now to figure out how to replace a blown capacitor.

    376. Another behemoth saved from a landfill thanks to Lee. I have a KV36XBR800 (with stand) that has the exact “D” board covered in this post. Again; Me, my family, Mother Nature all owe you a big Thank You!

    377. Updated status: replaced blown capacitor, but TV still at 7 blinks. Next step: determine if I really want to replace the ICs. Two questions follow.

      Q#1: I have a different model than anyone else here, I “think”? It is KV-32XBR400 . Has anyone gotten their TV to work with that model?

      Question #2:
      Are we of the mindset that the MCZ3001D parts are generally defective and should be replaced no matter where they sit on the board? If that is the issue (and not the specific location), then I might proceed. I do have at least 2 MCZ3001D parts on the board, but one of them is NOT in the IC6501 location that everyone else seems to have (see below).

      As a recap:
      1. I found IC8001.
      2. I cannot find the IC in location IC6501, but I do see the same sort of part (MCZ3001D) in a different IC location on the board.

    378. Lee, I just ordered the parts from your online store for my Sony 34. Exact same model as yours. I get the desoldering part but am a little apprehensive about soldering as I have never really done it. Will the IC’s simply snap into the IC sockets and not require soldering? If soldering the sockets onto the bottom of the board is required would lead free be recommended? or would 60/40 rosin core (lead/tin) solder work better?

    379. Hi Kevin, The chips do get inserted into the sockets, but they don’t ‘snap in’, they need to be pushed in with some force, but not until you’re sure all the legs are lined up and in the holes. Sometimes this requires squeezing the legs together slightly to pre-bend them inward as then tend to be spread out and will miss the holes. This spreading is intentional, since they were designed to be inserted by machines that squeezed the legs in as they inserted them into the board. When I worked in the industry, we had a little tool for straightening the legs when these ICs were loaded by hand into the sockets to make it easier for the assemblers. I have one of these tools and use it to straighten the legs on the chips I provide, but it’s not perfect so you must make sure that none of the legs miss the hole, or get bent under the chip.

      As for solder, I recommend the 60/40 lead/tin solder as I find it easier to work with than the lead free solder. And yes, that rosin core flux solder is what you want, NOT the acid core solder which is intended for plumbing.

    380. Hi Margaret, There was a comment last year (see comment on 2/26/12) from someone with your model who stated that he found IC6501 on ‘the other half of the board’. It’s possible on your model that the D board was split in two. He said it was around some metal heat fins and not easy to get to. Also, the XBR400 had no unsoldered pins. I didn’t find anyone who reported they did the repair on an XBR400 show up in the comments, but there have been quite a few other XBR800 and XBR960 models that were fixed by changing the MCZ3001D chips.

    381. Your operational explanation was spot on, took me about three hours start to finish. My KV-32HS420 is now working again, thanks for saving me a bunch of bucks. Wish I had found your site some years back when my 27″ WEGA went out in exactly the same way. I had also picked up a 34″ WEGA from trash in hopes it was just being replaced with a newer flat panel. It had the same problem of flashing red light 6 times.
      My friend had the 48″ WEGA a few years ago that had the same problem. He got it repaired, but it cost him a bunch more than $19.93. I think the whole D board got replaced and maybe more.
      Keep your eyes open the TV manufactures may be putting a hit out on you for all the business you are costing them.

    382. I’m throwing in the towel on my KV34HS420. If anyone in the Calgary Alberta region wants it as-is, where-is, post here prior to Oct. 19, 2013.

      The original failure was error 6/7. IC6501 and IC8002 were socketed and replaced with new MCZ3001DB chips. There was a small snap the first time the TV was powered on. Now the set tries to power up, but shuts off after about 3 seconds with no error code. The Q6506 and Q6507 MOSFETs and the R6526 fusible resistor were blown and have been temporarily replaced just to prove it can be fixed. C6590 and C6503 are visually fine but my meter can only test them to 20uF while these are 1200uF components.

      D6530 is probably blown. I would hate to throw away the TV over a $1 part, but I’m still looking at a good bit of time to order and replace D6530, C6590, C6503, R6526, Q6506, and Q6507 and a 37″ LED LCD costs less than the time I’ve already put in…

    383. Update status from Margaret D.: I got busy with a new job and didn’t have time to pursue this. So, I bought a new TV and threw this one out. Sorry, folks! I just don’t have the time anymore.

    384. Mr Devlin,
      Thanks a TON for the detailed how-to and excellent pics, along with the confidence booster from you and all the great responses that have posted up to this date. I have saved a KD36XS955 from its early demise, having gotten rid of my previous Sony for the same reason. I have a brother that also had same symptoms on his Sony, causing him to trash his as well. Your blog saved the day, and some cash. I figured anyone that would go to such trouble to post a tutorial like this, should at very least, earn my business for the chips and desolderer. Although my chips didn’t arrive fitting to the sockets, it didn’t take much to get them to fit. My package arrived in just a couple days.. Thanks again as I’m totally satisfied!

    385. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
      I fixed my KV-34XBR910. Exact 6/7 blinks. Found your instructions and other “followers” comments. I followed your instructions and other people’s comments and did it!

      I had never done this type work before, completely first time. I am so happy, not just saving money, but the feeling being successful.

      Your instructions are WONDERFUL!

      I should also thank the person who pointed out the “bridge” between D and A board and how to open it. I woudln’t have figured it out if I didn’t read his comments.

    386. Thanks so much Lee!
      The chips,sockets and sucker arrived in 2 days . It took me about 4 hours to do the repair having never soldered a chip in my life. My 40″ Wega is up
      And running again and am so thankful I don’t have to move that beast to the trash!

    387. Thank you for excellent post! I have a KD-34XBR960 that quit working after a storm with a 7 blink code. If it wasn’t for this post my family wouldn’t have a TV. Also, I think the OK Industries dp-100 would make desoldering a little easier along with some solder wick to clean off the pads.
      Again, THANK YOU for this post, you saved my family and I a lot of money.

    388. Lee, I have the same exact issue with my Sony Trinitron Wega. I was glad to see your article on it. My problem is that I do not have the equipment to repair it myself and will need to have it done by a TV repair place. What should I expect to pay in your opinion for this repair of the two IC chips? I am certainly willing to pay a fair price but I also want not to get ripped off.
      Thanks for your advice.
      Richard Clarke

    389. Hi Richard,
      The biggest issue with getting the TV repaired by a shop is getting it from your house to their shop. The hourly rate for the shop is likely to be $75/hour or more, and if you figure it will take two strong guys to pick up and return the TV, you’re probably look at 3 hours or more of their time. If you have a friend who is into ham radio or electronics, it might be better to have him come to your house and do the repair.

    390. Thanks so much for posting this. I had the code 6 when my Sony went out. I think this is a good fix for those with some electronics experience. The soldering is very fine, and someone just learning could easily mess it up. Needless to say, it worked fine for me.

    391. Another successful 6 blink repair! Thanks to Lee for all your help and excellent instructions! I ordered the chips/sockets from Lee and had them in two days! My background: I’m an former NASCAR mechanic experienced in welding & heliarc welding (large form of soldering) but not small circuit board chips. I know from experience – planning, reading the instructions more than once and using proper equipment is 75 % of the task! Here’s a few tips that might help someone else.
      1. With my 50+ yr old eyes I needed to see better. I went to the local dollar store and purchased a $1 pair of 3.25 power reading glasses, invaluable! Use good lighting!
      2. I used a #1 Phillips screw driver to easily remove the back screw in the circuit board. If you pull the board out far enough this is a non-issue.
      3. A Radio Shack desoldering iron with the suction bulb $16, made the desoldering process a 10 minute job with clean results.
      4. This YouTube “Soldering Tutorial” video was excellent because they soldered a very similar 16 pin chip. Watch @ 1:04 & 21:30 mins.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYz5nIHH0iY
      5. I broke off pins 17 & 13 on the socket before soldering on the circuit board.
      6. I used a Weller 25 watt soldering iron with a chisel tip. A chisel tip is what many pros recommend so it heats the pin and the pad at the same time. Also .032 (the size of a small paperclip) 60/40 rosin core solder – this was key with the very small pin size! To me the soldering process was the most tedious item in the entire repair!
      6. I asked Lee and was concerned about how much pressure to put on the chip when installing so it is seated correctly. Hard to explain but if the pins are lined up it should seat completely against the socket. I did not install the chips until I had the board completely reinstalled.

      Great to see my TV start up again, hope this helps!

    392. Sadly, no joy for me.

      Have the KV-30HS420, a hand me down from my parents. It would periodically shut off, 6 or 7 blinks, but could be turned back on almost immediately. At first I thought maybe a neighbor had a compatible remote.

      Became more frequent, especially with a complete change in scenery – cut to commercial, return from commertials, changing screens on a Wii game. Screen would fade to just some green outlines, then would click off a few seconds later. Last week we were up to a shutdown every 90 seconds or so.

      I’m pretty sure I damaged the board taking the old stuff off. From the picture it looks like you worked on it with the board in a verticle position? That was a nightmare for me, and I think I may have overheated the board getting the old solder off. My new solders were crap, too. When I was able to carefully brace the board in a horizontal position, it all became much easier, both de-soldering and re-soldering.

      Put in the sockets, put the chips in correctly, turned it on, screen stays off, three flashes of the red LED, then the click as it turns back off. Tried re-doing the solders. I’ll post links to how they are now. Any suggestions would be appreaciated.

      After power dissipates, I’ll capture some images and post some links to photos.

    393. I think I’m going to pass on posting photos. I took a really high-def photo, a couple of solders were still questionable, so I went back, completely desoldered it and re-did all the solders.

      Looks like crap, with a ton of flux residue, BUT IT WORKS!! :D

      Haven’t put it through the ringer to see if it still shuts down, but I’m optimistic.

    394. Hi Lee,
      I really appreciate your detailed fix for the 6 light blinking problem. My concern is the soldering. I previously had this tv set repaired for the same reason several years ago by a professional. If he utilized the plug in when he repaired it last time, would that enable me to fix it myself this time without soldering?
      Thanks,
      Thomas H

    395. Hi Lee,

      Sometime ago my Sony Wega did not start and was showing the 7 blinks. Solved by replacing one of the MZC3001DB chips.

      New problem is that sometimes shutdown on start up, turning on/off again make it work but only for a couple of hours…

      Went to service mode and saw the error E16 (high voltage) with a lot of events like in the past.

      In your opinion could be the same situation?

      Thanks a lot for your amazing support.

    396. Hi Thomas, If the previous repair was done using the sockets, then your job will be much easier since you won’t have to do any soldering.

    397. Hi Kevin, I don’t know if you’re experiencing the same problem or of it’s a new issue. The issue that the MCZ3001DB chips address is usually accompanied by the 6 or 7 blinks of the LED after shutdown. Are you saying that you’re not seeing that now, just a shutdown with no blinks? If there are no blinks, then it’s possible you have a different problem now and I don’t know if replacing these chips would fix it or not.

    398. Lee… Thank you very much for all your posts and e-mail. I “finally” found that 8th. miserable screw! The “D” Board is now out and standing in the recommended service position. However; the chassis would not slide out the 4 inches! I tried everything! Looked everywhere – no go! There must be a “3rd. hidden clip.” I cannot seem to find – somewhere! I have the KV-32HS500 made Sept. 2002. Made in Mexico. I just needed the stubby phillips and disconnected only 3 connections. I now await delivery of chips and sockets etc. … My landlord (he gave the the WEGA for FREE) is going to get the parts for me. I do his PC work for cash off the rent. Anyway; I do not think I am going to put that last 8th screw in when I reassemble. Too much of a pain – should further work be needed other than the chips. I will cut the legs off of PINS 13 & 17 on the IC Socket – not the chip! I want chip to seat firm and square in socket. I will use a 30 watt iron for this job with solder sucker and solder wick. I am in prayer mode that it will cure the deadly 6 – 7 red blips! My unit went out when my fair lady had the Air Conditioner on with PC, Wega, etc.. then hit the micro-wave. House Circuit Breaker tripped and took out the WEGA upon the “Breaker Reset.” Such is life. I hope the chips work because I no longer have an O’scope! to troubleshoot. I did download the full service manual.

    399. Those that are interested the manual is available in a 22 mb+ PDF format at the following: http://www.schematicsforfree.com/archive/file/Sony/Video/KV32HS500/996592503%20KV-32HS500,32HV600%20%202002%20US.pdf

    400. Hi Lee,

      Sometime ago my Sony Wega KV-86FQE did not start and was showing the 7 blinks. Solved by replacing just one of the MZC3001DB chips.

      New problem is that sometimes shutdown on start up(7 blinks), turning on/off again make it work but only for a couple of hours (7 blinks)…

      Went to service mode and saw the error E16 (high voltage) with a lot of events like in the past.

      In your opinion could be the same situation?

      Thanks a lot for your amazing support.

    401. Hi Kevin, It sounds like your MCZ3001DB may be failing, or there may be another component that is failing and over stressing it. If if installed the socket, it would be easy enough to see if replacing the chip again has any affect. Also, it’s possible that the IC that was not replaced originally is going bad. I think if it were me, I’d try replacing them both.

    402. Yes!… Yes! Yes! and more Yesses! It works! My 32″ Sony Trinitron WEGA KV-32HS500 is once again producing High Voltage! Snow… what a wonderful site. I assume at this point once I actually put back all the screws for the board, close up the cover and re-hookup some possible video inputs that I will once again have a Picture with sound. The accursed 7 Red Blinks are history! It again makes all the proper turning on noises! This time I played it safe by the purchase of a decent Tripp Lite Surge Suppression / Protection Unit! If the lady decides to go berserk with the Air Conditioner, vacume cleaner, Microwave and all else – when the house circuit breaker goes and re-sets, I might not lose the WEGA! It’s worth a try anyway. Sir!… I thank you again and again a gazillion times over! I was clueless as to what I was going to do with a Non-Functioning 200+ pound paper weight! No way could I possibly afford to get it transported and repaired! I am 60 years old and on disability! My moving it is visions of a Disney Cartoon! Paying people to transport and repair was impossible. I would be watching the WEGA from the street as rent would have been history! You have made my life much better. I don’t have a clue as to how to ever repay you other then to pass it on as needed – if needed. You do have my E-mail if you can think of anything that I can do for you – Sincerely, (The One And Only) Dabonboza De Dabonboza! AKA/ Bruce – BAB. Bye!

    403. Hi Lee,

      Sometime ago my Sony Wega KV-86FQE did not start and was showing the 7 blinks. Solved by replacing just one of the MZC3001DB chips.

      New problem now during start up(16 blinks), turning on/off again make it work only for a couple of hours (16 blinks)…

      In your opinion could be the same situation?

      Thanks a lot for your amazing support.

    404. Hi Lee,

      Sometime ago my Sony Wega KV-86FQE did not start and was showing the 7 blinks. Solved by replacing just one of the MZC3001DB chips.

      New problem now during start up (16 blinks), turning on/off again make it work only for a couple of hours (16 blinks)…

      In your opinion could be the same situation?

      Thanks a lot for your amazing support.

    405. Thank you so very much. The project took me just over three hours but it works and i dont have to by a new tv a month before Christmas!

    406. Wanted to say thank you! I ordered the chips through your website it was shipped and arrived very quickly and with the help of your guide I was able to replace the bad chip and viola the TV works again! Desoldering was the hardest part of the whole process the rest was very simple!

    407. Lee, Thanks for your quick response and suggestions. My solder joints looked good, and all of the IC legs were properly inserted. I reinstalled the board, then went over my cable connections with a more critical eye. When I first disconnected the cables, I carefully tucked them out of the way, and apparently “hid” the flat white cable near the back of the board. Once it was connected, my Sony came back to life! DOH! Bob B

    408. Thanks Lee. We inherited our Sony Wega TV (Model KV34HS420)from our inlaws when it “died”. Found your website and instructions. Ordered the 2 IC boards and sockets from you (thanks for the quick delivery) and the repair went off without a hitch.

      A couple of additional notes since I also found some of the testimonials and Q&A helpful:

      There are 4 bridges that connect the two circuit boards. These are hinged away from the “D” board and flip up and away from the “D” board (to the right looking from the rear of the set.

      Aligning the IC legs with the sockets before installing the sockets (dry-fitting them) made the final install easier.

      Laying the “D” Board flat made the soldering easier that working with it vertically.

      A great post and serving us years later. THANKS!

    409. So I’m having the same problem with my Sony Wega, I’m hopeful that I will be able to fix it with this guide. I’ve never done any soldering before… What I would like to know to know is, would it be unwise to use a 60W iron for this job?

    410. Hi Dezu, I would not recommend using a 60W soldering iron unless it has some way to control the heat at the tip. You want to use just enough heat to melt the solder and no more. Too much heat can lift the traces from the board and a high wattage unregulated soldering iron would be more likely to do that than a low wattage iron.

    411. Marty Hammersmith

      Add me to the pile of Sony TV repair success stories. I had the 6/7 blinking code. I ordered the sockets and IC’s from here for $17 delivered. They arrived in just a couple days. The work was straight forward and the TV is back up again and working fine.

      Thank you for taking the time to share this common problem with the world!

      Marty Hammersmith
      Bright, Indiana

    412. Follow-up.

      I have not seen this mentioned anywhere in your success stories, or it must be me. The TV works fine with one exception. It does not retain the menu settings after it is turned off. E.g. It comes on with the picture in “normal” mode and I use the menu to set it to “full zoom”. If I turn it off and on, it goes back to “normal”.

      Is there a battery that may be also dead, or I not reconnect a wire,(although I do not see any dingle-wires)? What else could it be?

    413. Can’t say Thank You enough!!! I have a KV-36HS420 that was purchased 2-2005 for almost $1,500 Needless to say I was upset when it wouldn’t turn on one evening (6-7 flashes)on the standby led. I found your post and ordered the 2 chips & 2 sockets. I have a very fair knowledge of electronics, soldering etc. I unsoldered the chips using solder wik, the solder pump from radio shack was useless. I didn’t use the sockets as I read some negatives about using sockets. I soldered the chips back to the board. Cleaned the insides with copressed air, put it all back together and turned it on.
      WORKS PERFECTLY !!!
      Thank You Again !!!

    414. Well I tried desoldering the ICs and I just can’t get them out. I don’t understand what I’m doing wrong. I watched videos about how to do it and it looked simple enough. But I can barely get the solder to melt without burning the board around it, and then when I try to suck it up it just doesn’t come out.

      The board is singed brown now, have I probably botched it beyond repair?

    415. If the board is getting brown, your soldering iron is too hot. Some soldering irons have no thermostat on them and they overheat and this can damage the board. You may be able to reduce the temperature it with a wet sponge, which is also used for keeping the solder tip clean. If you suspect your iron is too hot, test it by seeing how fast new solder melts when it comes in contact with it. A tip that’s too hot will melt the solder too fast and it will ball up instead of sticking to the iron’s tip.

      The technique for removing solder with the solder pump is to first apply the heat to the joint until the solder starts to melt, then quickly and without removing the solder tip from the molten solder, bring the pump up until it touches the solder and iron tip and then push the button. Then remove it quickly before the pump’s plastic tip starts to melt. Some melting of the pump’s plastic tip is unavoidable over time, but you can keep it to a minimum by removing it as soon as it’s finished sucking the solder up. If you find you can’t get the solder to be vacuumed up, it sometimes helps to add more solder to the joint, which forms a larger pool of melted solder which is easier to remove with the pump. I know that sounds counter-intuitive, but sometimes it’s necessary because the vacuum can’t reach the small amount of solder down in the hole and the heat won’t conduct if you don’t have enough solder. Here is 1 minute a video of the procedure. When you get proficient with a pump, you can unsolder a 28 pin IC is less than 3 minutes as shown on this video.

      For removing solder that is down in the hole, the pump works best. For solder that remains on the surface of the board, you can use solder wick which kind of soaks it up like a sponge. If you’ve never used solder wick, search for videos on YouTube on how to use it. Here’s a video that shows how it’s done.

    416. Hi Lee,

      Sometime ago my Sony Wega KV-86FQE did not start and was showing the 7 blinks. Solved by replacing just one of the MZC3001DB chips.

      New problem now during start up (16 blinks), turning on/off again make it work only for a couple of hours (16 blinks)…

      In your opinion could be the same situation?

      Thanks a lot for your amazing support.

    417. I haven’t heard of anyone fixing an issue with 16 blinks by replacing the MCZ3001DB. There is no really good source for interpreting these codes. The only source I’ve found by searching Google doesn’t seem to match up at all with the most likely sources of Sony TV problems. It’s almost like they stopped updating it and so the codes describe problems for earlier generations of TVs. The only codes I know of that are commonly fixed with these chips are those for the 6 or 7 blink problems. I did a quick search on 16 blinks and found only one mention for it: http://www.askaboutmoney.com/showthread.php?t=106010 It doesn’t look too helpful though.

    418. Hi Lee,

      I’m sharing the Sony Wega error codes here http://oi43.tinypic.com/2ui84xv.jpg

      Thanks a lot for your support

    419. Great Article Lee. I just brought my Wega up from the basement. A few years ago It was having the same problem when I put it in the basement for storage until I could fix it. But then about a year ago I plugged it in and it worked. My wife was using it for her work out DVD. I brought it up to the room a few days ago and it was working, until i came home today and tried to turn it on. A no go, those 7 blinking lights!!!! I want to try to fix it. Hope your article helps! thanks in advance.

    420. My Sony model KV-34HS510 started displaying the 6 blink code as described in this blog. However, every so often, the TV would actually turn on but then when turned off, revert to not working with the same code. I ordered the chips thorugh this site and completed the repair. The TV will now turn on, but the color is not good. Blue and purple with no red. I tried adjusting the color and hue settings with no success. Any suggestions?

    421. I’ve not heard of a problem like this (missing color) occurring previously. The only thing I can think of is a loose cable that controls one of the colors. I’d look over the cables and see if you can find anything is not properly attached.

    422. Lee, I have kd-34xbr960 (well over 10 yrs old) and did this repair yesterday with kit from you. Took me 4-5 hours, the hardest part was soldering “in” the new sockets due to 25 watt soldering pencil not being quite hot enough but eventually got it done. I certainly did not expect it to work but lo and behold it did. TV was on for 8 hours yesterday without a problem. My question would be should you install ic’s into sockets and then install sockets as it’s tight getting them in after socket install. Anyway , thank you sir for this excellent information, now every minute the TV is on I have a gratifying feeling of accomplishment.

    423. Hi Mjdgarage, Glad to hear the repair worked for you. As for installing the chips first, I do recognize that the components near the ICs make it a challenge to install the ICs into the sockets. It’s necessary to make sure the legs are straight and ready to fit into the sockets so a ‘trial fit’ might help in that regard. I generally bend them inward and then check to see that they are ready to line up with the socket holes. Then I push them in a little at a time making sure all the legs are going into the proper holes and that the chips is not tilted. To remove them, I use a small flat bladed screw driver to pry up a little from the end, slip the screw driver a little further in, pry up some more, etc. I’ve been doing this kind of work for many years and I sometimes don’t realize the tricks I’ve learned over the years and apply without even knowing that I’m doing it.

      I would still recommend doing it by installing the sockets first, just to keep the ICs out of harm’s way while doing the repair since they are more fragile than the sockets and there’s no need to expose them to handling until they are needed. Some may prefer doing it the other way. But remember, if you ever need to do the repair again, you’ll need to know how to remove and install the ICs from the sockets while they are soldered to the board so it’s good practice to know how to do it.

    424. Another successful repair. Sony kd34xs955 6-7 blinks. Put in the new sockets and chips and, TADA. Now I don’t get a new flat panel something. DAMN Oh Well. Getting more use out of our $2200 TV. The sound is Awesome, Picture is great. You know that thing has a subwoofer inside. Cool. I can wait for a 4K ultraHD someday. There’s no content yet anyway.

    425. I commented on December 30th that I made the repair and then had picture color issues. I checked all connections and actually disconnected, inspected and reconnected every thing that I had touched. The TV still had color probelms. I searched for information on the new problem and one source suggested that the picture tube needed to be degaussed (demagnetized). Everytime the TV is turned on, part of the process is a degauss cycle. For my problem, it was suggested to simply turn the TV on and off several times so that that a full degaussing could be accomplished. This did the trick! I put the back piece back on the TV and it has been working fine for the past 10 days. Thanks Lee, this thread is great and thanks for the chips/sockets!

    426. I found this information to be very helpful. My son and I repaired my TV this afternoon and it worked! I am very excited. This TV has much better sound quality than the new flat screens so I was really wanting to save it. Very thankful for your detailed instructions. One lesson learned was that we forgot about the latches that allow the board to slide back four inches to make easier access. That would have shaved off some time and aggravation. Thanks again!

    427. Add another success story here. This information, plus the basic desoldering iron I picked up at Radio Shack, made the repair this past weekend quite easy.

      We now have our KV-32HS510 working perfectly again and the sockets should make any future replacement of these chips a breeze if needed.

      Thank you !!!!

    428. I can’t for the life of me get the ICs out. I think I melted them into the board to be stuck in there even more than they were to begin with. Is there any kind of place I could possibly go where they would take care of this kind of thing for me? Like, what would I be looking under in the phone book? And if I did damage the board would it be possible to have repaired?

    429. Lee,
      I’ll be placing an order ASAP – just wondering if you think putting a small heatsink on the new IC’s would help extend their life – or do you think their failure had nothing to do with overheating? The heatsinks are inexpensive, and if I’m going to take the time to swap out the IC’s, adding them would take very little additional time.

      Thoughts?

    430. Hi Dezu, I’ve heard of others who had some trouble and then took it to someone with experience who was able to clean up the board and get it working. If you have any friends who are ham radio or electronics enthusiasts, they may have the necessary skills. Otherwise, you may need to find an electronics repair shop nearby that can do the repair.

    431. Hi Andy, I don’t know if the problem is heat-related, but I suppose it couldn’t hurt to add heatsinks to the chips. The current draw on these ICs is rather low, less than 14 mA at 16V so they don’t self-heat very much.

    432. Checking in to report another success! I was able to bring a KV-34XBR910 back to life I got for free off of CL a while back. I spent about $40 total on the soldering tools and chips (a bit on the expensive side compared to how much others paid); I spent almost a full day (7-8 hours) on the entire thing.

      Dezu, what you are going through in the desoldering process is exactly what happened to me when I did it. When I first started, I did not think my pump was sucking up any solder because nothing was coming out of the pump, and it looked like things were getting worse just as you described. Do not be discouraged by that, just stay with it and leave the iron on the tip for a good 30 seconds or so, and then immediately use the pump to suck the stuff out.

      I think there are some people who recommend against keeping the pump right next to the iron, but that is what I had to do to get things right; that and move the metal tip of the IC around sometimes since I thought that might make picking up solder with the pump easier.

      The entire desoldering process took me 4 hours total – 2 hours per chip. Taking apart the TV and putting it back together was about 2 hours total, and soldering was under an hour (30 minutes to solder the first chip, and under 10 to solder the second).

      I can say that after the repair, I am one happy camper, and I am glad I have a bit of soldering experience under my belt! :)

    433. Hi Lee,
      I wanted to thank you for the prompt reply to my question regarding the use of a heat sink – and more importantly – I wanted to thank you for getting the IC’s in the mail so quickly!

      I’ve installed the new units, but I’m experiencing a three flash error now. I plan on inspecting the solder connections, but I think I’m seeing a potential bridge – I just can’t determine whether it’s supposed to be there (a circuit trace) or if it’s my bad soldering. In particular, I’m looking at the area near pin 12 on the left hand IC. It looks like C6509 has a trace that connects to pin 12. I’m looking at your photo – but the red arrow obscures the area in question. Are you able to determine whether there is an intentional trace/connection between pin 12 and the capacitor?

      Thanks again for your outstanding service!

      Andy

    434. Lee,
      Just wanted to say thanks to you (and to all the others who have added to it’s value through the comments above) for this post. Everything was just as described, except for the thick layer of dust you encounter once the outer shell is removed :) Nothing a shop vac and some canned air couldn’t take care of.

      Even though I have no prior experience with desoldering I was able to follow your steps and fix my parents TV in about 2 hours. I have to say bringing something back to life like that is an amazing feeling. I had my doubts if it would work when the thing was all apart, but once it was all put back it came on just like new!

      Parts from Ebay total cost with shipping $13.50 !!!

      One tip I would pass on (it may be mentioned above already) is that during the desoldering process if you get a pin that refuses to let you suck out the solder just add some solder back onto the pin and try it again. This seems counter intuitive since you are trying to remove the solder, but if you don’t have enough solder on the pin to create a vacuum then you can’t pull the deeper solder out with the solder pump.

      Worked for me!

      Eric

    435. Dennis & Rachelle

      We ordered your repair kit and followed your directions to fix our Sony wega. Anyone thinking about doing this repair go for it! I disassembled the TV and my fiancé handled the soldering (we got out iron at radio shack) Thank you for your clear directions!

    436. ordered your repair kit in January, did the repair this past weekend. thanks to your instructions, tv back up and running!!! never solder/desolder before, used desoldering braid instead of bulb. worked like a charm. thanks again!
      ash

    437. Maaan, I’m so jealous of all these success stories! I ran into the 7 blink code with my KV-34HS510 and with a google search found this post and decided to give it a try. I ordered the chips along with the sockets, soldered them in, went to turn the tv on and got a three blink code that does not repeat. Just three blinks and then nothing. Does anyone know what this can be? I would really hate to have to get rid of the tv especially if there’s a way to fix it that wouldn’t be too costly.

      - John

    438. I’m in the process right now of replacing the chips and was cleaning the soldering job on the board with alcohol and toothbrush and the blue wire leading to something came off. Any adea where it goes????? help!!!

    439. Another success story. That was my post right before this one.I was not ready to get rid of an almost perfectly good TV. But it is now. Thank you Lee

    440. LoL. Perhaps someone can share a photo of their board, provided they have the same model.

    441. Hi, I had came accross your post before and I thought you had a repair kit I could order from you and now that I’m ready to do the repair I can’t seem to find that information. Are you still selling the repair kit? I am anxious to fix this tv.

    442. I did offer a set of chips for a while but I had trouble finding a reliable source, so I no longer offer them. Beware, there are vendors these selling chips with the MCZ3001DB labels, but the wrong circuits inside, i.e., fakes. Once I realized there were fakes, I started testing them 100% using an oscilloscope and ZIF socket fixture. Even in good batches, it was not uncommon to find 5-10% bad chips, which I sorted out. The batches that were fakes had date codes of 11392 and 12369 and now I see those appearing in images on Ebay. The good ones had date codes that started with the letter ‘B’.

    443. I have a KV34XBR800 that was purchased in 2003 new.
      In 2011 it began having difficulty turning on. I called it in to a local repair man paid alittle over 200 dollars. Worked good till 2 weeks ago same 6 blink code as before. I came across your site and ordered the MCZ3001DB IC’s . I specifically mentioned about their origin. I was told they were made here in USA. Could that be so?
      Anyway I put them in (luckily last time the repair man put in receptacles) I put them in and WOW. Working NEW again .
      Thanks so very much for helping everyone especially me.. You have done a good thing here and I hope the good deed is repaid to you someway. I also do similar things and have led my life always helping people.
      Thank You so vey much .
      ps I purchased 4 IC’s keeping 2 as spares.

      http://www.dynamiclamps.com

      Michael…………

    444. I have a KD34XBR960 that was purchased in early 2005. For the past 4 or 5 years every so often I would get the 7 blink code when trying to turn on the TV and my solution was to unplug the TV, wait for 20 sec, and then plug it back in. Just this past week I experienced the TV turn off while on and give me the 7 blink code. I was still able to turn it back on without unplugging it. This is where my issues started. Now when the TV was on and there was a dark picture, the picture would zoom in/out on its own and the picture would turn fuzzy. This would continue until the picture got so dark that I lost red color, the picture would fade green and the set would turn off with the 7 blink codes. If I was watching a show with bright colors or background I would not have an issue. So my initial thought was the flyback XFMR was going bad (I did not want to deal with replacing that). I found your instructions very useful and decided to give it a try. I opened up the box and cleaned out 9 years worth of dust. I had a friend help me perform the solder work. It really was easier having 2 people perform this work since the board was positioned vertically. One person would hold the board steady while the other performed the work. 2 sets of eyes were also helpful to verify a good soldering job. I read in an earlier post about the surface resister falling off so my recommendation to others is to solder pin 4, either wait for the board to cool or solder other pins and then come back to pin 5. I put everything back together and the set is now completely repaired! Dark images are clear again. My screen does not fade in and out during dark movies. Everything is back to the way it should be. BTW, my D board already had factory installed MCZ3001DB chips which took 9 years for them to fail (might have been heat related failure due to the thick layer of dust). The moral of this story is to follow these great instructions and see what happens. If it doesn’t work at least you tried and if it does work you have a great working TV again.

    445. It is fantastic that you have posted a clear solution. I can’t, however, see my way to doing all this work (at least two hours, right? =$250 of my time) and risk possible electrocution, to end up with a TV set the size of a St. Bernard’s doghouse sitting on my living room floor. I’m going to move into the 21st century with a big 1080p flat panel on my wall for $400. But thanks.

    446. Why would you bother to post such passive-aggressive garbage on such a great info site? Lee has helped LOTS of folks who saved a large hunk of electronics from the junkpile. I’m glad your time is worth so much, why don’t you just find a more profitable way to spend your time rather then trolling? Bob R

    447. Thank you for the great site. Very clear instructions and pictures. I fixed my 34xbr910 back in 4/08 and put in the sockets and taped some spare IC chips in the chassis for the next failure to occur. I posted a very lengthy description without pictures (agoraquest), but a pix says everything. Today, I will be spinning my tv on the stand, pop the back, and slap the spare ICs into the sockets. It will take me all of 15 minutes as opposed to the initial work installing the sockets. These chips lasted about 4 years to the first failure, then 6 years with the DB version of the same chip. Thanks again.
      DIYr

    448. Just wanted to let you and everyone know, I also was successful in repairing my Sony Wega (KV40XBR). I have never soldered at a chip level so I asked a friend and colleague to remove the chip and solder the new sockets in. SUCCESS!

    449. Excellent article, and Thank you very much. That’s exactly the problem I’m having. If i leave it turned off for a week or so, it will power back on, and stay on as long as no ones shuts it off, but once it’s turned off, it won’t power back on. again, Thank you sir.

    450. Thank you for your site and information. I have a K32-HS510 that started the 7 blink code and would work with the hair dryer method. I replaced both IC8002 and IC6501 IC’s and installed sockets.

      Now when I power the set on (with the cover off) a relay clicks, then the standby light blinks 3 times, and the relay clicks again. The 3 blinks does not repeat.

      I’ve checked my work with a magnifying glass, verified continuity with an ohm meter from each pin of the chip to the solder joint on the bottom of the board, and even tried another set of MCZ3001DB’s. The result is the same. In fact, the result is the same if I try to power the set on with both chips removed, so i don’t think I’m even getting to that stage of the startup.

      I am a huge fan of this set and hate to lose it to something that I can fix. Any idea on where to start?

    451. Reading the post list further – could it be that I have ‘fake’ MCZ3001DB’s? I purchased them from ebay and just saw your note about the date codes. I’m going to check what mine are.

    452. Thank you Lee for the guidance and encouragement to repair my 10 year old KD-36XS955. I took my time, and it’s working again.

      I did have a different problem about 2 years ago. The screen would flash RED and go black along with 7 flashes. That turned out to be a bad solder joint on the board at the rear of the CRT.

      At that time I bought the sockets & chips, so I was all set for today’s repair.

    453. I’ve purchased an additional set of MCZ2001DB’s from a non ebay site with the right code on them. Also the 6505 that can cause a 3 blink condition (even though I don’t think this is an error code). Hopefully this weekend I will get to install.

    454. Hello Lee,

      First of all thanks for sharing.

      My Sony Wega shows 16 blink error and doesnt start, any idea how to solve this issue?

      Sony Wega Error Messages -> https://www.flickr.com/photos/123929012@N06/14208845485/

      Thanks a lot for your support,
      James

    455. I just got a KV-XBR40 for free…tested befor i moved in house and worked. Moved in and now its 6 blinks. Got slighty shaken during the move(wasnt easy move). Wondering if the shaking mighta loosened somthing easy to fix or is it a big problem…

    456. Hi Lee- Just wanted to say thank you for your detailed summary on how to fix the notorious 6 blinking code issue. I bought your chips and sockets back in November! The Sony KV30HS420 sat unplugged for months, and we watched TV on an old 20″ Sony Triniton. I did find a one line mention somewhere on the internet about pressing “Display, 5, Vol + and power” and magically it worked for a few weeks! Then it quit one night with the “6 blinking code”…again I found out about the “Hair Dryer” trick, and that also worked for a while…last night it died finally. Well, today (Memorial Day)decided “it’s now or never”.

      I followed your instructions and 2 hours 10 minutes later VIOLA! It’s been on for 2 hours and the picture is as good as new. THANKS LEE!

      A few additions to your instructions may be helpful to others:
      1. YOU NEED A SOLDER SUCKER! It is amazing how good it works; heat the solder joint and as soon as it’s shiny deploy the sucker and like magic it’s clean.
      2. I only unplugged the 6 connectors, leaving the three wires attached back to the tube in tact. I was able to maneuver the D board up and stand it against the aide of the tube/frame to do the un-soldering. (your directions perfectly allowed me to slide the bottom out about 4″ to access the screw underneath the tube, the other screws were easy to get to. I did use a stubby for the front screw and a longer phillips to get the one at the opposite side under the inputs panels; I used a pair of pliers to gently squeeze the black clips a bit to release the board, and a small piece of wood to help gently pry up the clips on the other side which keep the D board secure to the other board.
      3. removing the old chips was really easier than I thought it would be, about 10 minutes; I used a small pair of needle nose pliers to grasp the chip from the top after I de-soldered it to gently pull it out, and then used a straight paper clip to be sure the holed were unobstructed.
      4. Soldering in the sockets was a bit more of a challenge as the fact that the D board in standing up the solder had a tendency to run a bit-ideally if it were flat (horizontal) then the solder wouldn’t run-I spent 15 minutes soldering both sockets, primarily because I had to remove the drips. BUT THIS WAS MY FIRST TIME EVER SOLDERING, SO I’M SURE SOMEONE WITH MORE EXPERIENCE/SKILL COULD HAVE DONE IT QUICKER/CLEANER THE FIRST TIME. Even so, the solder joints were nice and round, small and no gaps (I used a magnifying glass and flash light to be sure).
      5. After putting the chips in correctly (notch towards the edge on the board) I reconnected the 6 wire sets and plugged in and turned it on…NOTHING! so I thought my soldering wasn’t good, but as I started to pull the chips to get to the sockets, I noticed the left chip wasn’t fully seated, so I pulled it out, made sure the legs were straight and reset it, tried it again and UREKA! it works!So I unplugged it again, installed all the screws on the board and then the cover.
      6, Putting it back together was a cinch, except I would recommend anyone doing this to carefully look at how the cover is attached underneath as they remove it. The lip on the bottom of the cover needs to slide in between the bottom slots in two locations so it mates up correctly with the bottom screw holes. Actually, Lee, putting the cover back on took me 20 minutes! I have the TV on a stand in the corner of the room, so I was able to lift the TV up from the rear and have the front rest against the angle of both walls (so the top of the front against the walls with the rear up, good it someone can hold it while it “balances” like this. This enabled me to gently slide the cover into place so the bottom side lips went in between the black base. Like I said, look at it as you remove it!
      7. I’m impressed that through YOUR detailed advice, the parts I ordered from you and the countless people who have attempted this fix and succeeded, I was able to give my Sony new life!

      Here’s the tools I used: 65W solder iron,Solder Sucker, rosin core solder (Radio Shack), your chips (B) and sockets, stubby Phillips, long Phillips, pair of needle nose pliers, pair of slip joint pliers. I did take pictures of where the connectors I removed went, as well as label all the input cables from (DVD, VCR, Cable, Computer)so reattaching was quick.

      Thanks Lee…email me your address (I misplaced it after I received the chips I ordered from you) I’ll send you one of our “Chocolate Greetings” cards from our company (www.catleechocolates.com)

      Bests-Lee

    457. I have a problem with Sony Wega with a 6 or 7 blink code and replace IC8002 and IC6501. I leave the problem indicated above, but now the screen will not turn. Please could you be? The green light turns on, but no screen.”

    458. just wanted to say thank you. I bought the chips and sockets from you about 8 months ago and everything worked like butter. unfortunately now I need more chips as the tv broke again. At least I don’t have to solder them. thanks again.

    459. Louis Barella

      Hi Lee,

      What is the “Hair Dryer” trick? I have read about it on your site but could not find why to use it and how to use it.

      Thank you

      Louis

    460. The ‘hair dryer’ trick is heating the chip up to temporarily fix or induce the issue. When chips fail, it’s not uncommon for it to happen gradually based on temperature. If you can heat up or cool a chip, you can sometimes induce the failure mode. That can be done with a hair dryer or heat gun or a can of cooling spray to make the chip cool down. In any event, if you can induce the failure by heating or cooling a chip, then you have a higher confidence that replacing that chip will fix the issue. It’s not a long term solution, just a diagnostic tool.

    461. I no longer sell the chips, but if you want to order some replacements, I would suggest ordering them on Amazon.com from B+D enterprises.

    462. Louis-

      The hair dryer trick works like this: unplug the TV, take a hair dryer on high setting and focus it on the right rear side (near the bottom of the TV) moving back and forth for 3-4 minutes.

      Then plug in the TV and turn on, it “should” then turn on normally. (but if you turn the set off, it will go back to the 6-7 blinking codes, so you’ll have to use the hair dryer trick again.

      As Lee suggested in his reply, if the hair dryer trick works, then you can be fairly confident that replacing the chips will be the solution…follow Lee’s great step by step advice, and be sure to get the “B” model chips as he mentioned.

      Bests-Lee (another one not Lee Devlin!)

    463. Hello – Just a big thank you for the directions on how to fix the problem. I followed them and had no issues. The only problem I had was the blue cable – the board attachment is broke and the cable just barely stays on.

      Thanks again

    464. i am having this same problem but there are no blinking lights on the tv. i want to get into this prject because i love my sony trinitron, but it seems like a lot of work.

    465. My KV30-HS420, 11 years old has the same symptoms. For 2 weeks we have been turning it on after a lot of on/off attempts and today it just won’t turn on. 6 blinks. and I found your blog. Will be trying out the solution soon and will share success/failure. Hope you will continue to provide guidance if I run into problems.

    466. Lee – Thanks for this terrific “how to” guide on how to fix the Sony XBRs. I took an Electronics class for three years while in high school (Thanks Bob Lunger! – my teacher and all around great guy!) and went on to become an Avionics Tech. in the U.S. Navy. I knew when I saw your directions, coupled with the positive comments, that I wanted to try this fix. It worked wonderfully and there will now be one less XBR gracing the local landfill!!! Thanks again! Wayne

    467. Follow up.

      TV works great. The loss of presets I mentioned last December fixed itself. All I can figure is there is a rechargeable battery on-board which saves the pre-sets. It must have fully discharged since is was unplugged for a few weeks. After a week of continual use, it must have regained its full charge and everything works fine. Otherwise the TV has a self-analyzing and correcting feature I did not know about.

      Still a great post, Lee.

    468. Lee,

      Thank you OH SO VERY MUCH for taking the time to post the repair noted on your site. I was able to get the IC and sockets from Amazon for $25.00 and did the repair today.

      SUCCESS…………!

      JGH

    469. David E. Morse

      Hi Lee,
      Due to the 7 blink code on my Sony KD-34XBR2~Chasis HA-3 (Manufactured in Mexico May, 2002). I’m currently replacing both my Shindengen MCZ3001D IC chips, but my D-Board is slightly different than yours.
      IC 8002 is located like yours, however IC 6501 is on the other half of the board, and positioned in a very difficult place to work because it is surrounded by heat sink plates.
      Nevertheless, on my D-board all the pins on both ICs are soldered — including pins 13 and 17.
      Therefore, do I solder the new DIP Socket pins 13 and 17 on both IC chips? or cut them off? I need some clairification specific to my D-board. Thank you for your detailed technical instructions!

      p.s. Terry Corbet’s Post on February 26th, 2012 at 17:13 made reference to the board I have, however, he did not ask for guidence.

      Thank you sincerely,
      David E. Morse

      ref: http://k0lee.com/2011/05/fixing-a-sony-wega-with-6-or-7-blink-code/

    470. Hi David, If the pins are soldered on your board, then there should be no problem soldering them again. They are not supposed to be connected to anything inside the IC, and therefore shouldn’t be connected to anything on the board but I supposed it’s possible that they are grounded and some D-boards which where not previously soldered couldn’t handle it.

    471. anyone know where i could order the parts or where to get the parts?

    472. Dominick blandino

      Would this work for a Sony Grand WEGA KDF-50WE655 50-Inch LCD . I’m having the same problem on a different model

    473. You can find them on Amazon.com from a company called B+D Enterprises.

    474. This article describes a repair of a CRT model. The KDF models are LCD and have different internals. I’d suggest you refer to this posting first before replacing the MCZ3001DB chips because it may be a different issue on those TVs.

      http://alwaysverybusy.net/resolving-the-6x-red-blinking-light-of-death-on-my-sony-tv-with-pictures/

    475. Hello Lee.
      So glad I found your blog. I purchased my Sony kv_34br800 in 2002. Been a great tv for 12 years until I got the 7 blink nightmare. I found that if I unplugged the tv overnight the next day I could get it to come back on by hitting the power button twice. That “fix” lasted a week, then back to the 7 blink mode. So I unplugged the set again for overnight and the next day I could get the set to come on by pressing the power button 3 times. I came to realize my tv was dieing. Then I found your blog. Im pretty handy so I gave it try. Got the chips and sockets from Amazon “b+d enterprise” and a spring loaded solder sucker. I have a bulb type solder sucker, but like you said, they dont work that great. I read through your blog and looked at your pictures and completed the job. Everything you said was spot on. The pictures were a great help to. My Sony is now up and running like new. Cant thank you enough. Total cost-31.00 dollars. Thanks again.
      Bryan

    476. Hi Lee,

      I am very excited but with a bit of apprehension about taking taken on the repair my Sony KV34-HS510 June 2003, Made in Tijuana model.

      After reading your extensive list of comments and helpful hints from your many readers, Im now ready to attempt it. Stay tuned. My first time with such an issue esp. soldering etc. My next step is to order the parts and equipment.

      I’ll post pack later if successful. Thank You.

      M’Best,
      Ron

    477. Thanks for the information. It had me entertaining the idea that I might repair our tv. I am a complete novice but your instructions were so fantastic that I kept reading. :) Until I got to unsolder(!) Yeah… maybe I won’t attempt this after all.
      Thanks anyway!
      Ashley

    478. Thanks for the great instructions. The picture came back on after the repair, but I am having the same color issues that Mike had. I have turned it on and off many times like he said, but the picture is still mostly red and green. Did anyone else have this issue and were you able to solve it?

    479. Lee, thank you so much, I got this done last night having never soldered before, total cost $35! Maybe a picture on the “draw bridge” connectors will be good to have, I wasn’t sure where they were at first. Thank you, thank you!

    480. Brought my KV-32HS510 back to life. Inside was just as you described, easy to find parts, slide out tray to reach the tricky screw, and rotate the board after removing the “easy” wires.

      Thanks for putting together such a detailed and widely appliciable how-to. Someone on Amazon noticed as well, since they have the chips and sockets all in one item, and it’s commonly purchased w/ the same solder sucker you show.

      Only thing I might add is that it seems like more than a few commentors have limited soldering experience. While it’s not the purpose of this post to teach soldering skills, you might share a few links to youtube for simple soldering techniques, gotchas, etc.. (solder bridges, cold joints, ensure nice “hershey kiss” joints, heat the pin, not the solder, etc…)

      Thanks again for such a great tutorial.

    481. Carl, I did this same repair and everything worked great,for about 3 weeks, then I started to have color issues as well. Mine was mostly red issues. I could unplug the set over night and the next day it work great,for a few days. Then it started to get worse, started to shut its self off while I was watching tv. I would turn it back on and it was ok. Pretty soon it would shut down 2 or 3 seconds after I hit the power button. It was safe to say it died. Dont know if yours is headed into this direction, but I hope it does not. I now have a 55 inch Samsung hanging over the fire place. Good Luck.
      Bryan

    482. In the process of dissasemblly a 1 Inch black plastic clamp lined with ceramic fell off and unknown location, I assume it insulates a connection or wires..idk where it came from except the side of the TV opposite the board in need of repair it says chili’s in ZLF-110 I don’t wanna fix the tx without replacingbthis part…Sony tried to tell me to buy their service manual I told them not gonna happen…old TV should be free

    483. Found out its an emi core…

    484. Harrison Howard

      I am a complete novice but have bought a 35 watt soldering station and other needed supplies. I have followed your exceptionally clear instructions, but have run into an obstacle. I have taken out the eight screws in the D Board and raised the clips that allowed me to slide the D Borad and the one next to it back a few inches. I found the additional clips on the outside edge of the D Board that release it.
      HOWEVER, on the opposite side of the D Board are four parts that seem to form a “bridge” between the D Board and the board next to it. One of them and part of another is visible in the second to last photo in your tuturial. Each of these four parts is a black plastic rectangular frame about 1.5 inches long with ten metal strips side by side within the plastic frame. Perhaps they are plugged into sockets and can be removed, or pivot like a hinge on the edge that is associated with the the board next to the D Board. It looks as though they will have to be removed or pivot in order to free the D Board and turn it on its side. Could you tell me how to deal with those four parts. They appear identical, and all four span the space between the D Board and the adjacent board. I can’t tell if the D Board can slide out from under them or they are actually hinged and intended to pivot, or they unplug from sockets. PLEASE EXCUSE MY LONG INQUIRY! All the Best, Harrison

    485. Hi Harrison, The four parts you refer to work like draw bridges where they pivot upward 90 degrees. The pivoting part is on the other board, not the D-board. Just pull up firmly where they attach to the D-board and they will release and allow you to remove the D-board.

    486. The repair tech came and fixed the IC problem.

      TV (kv-34xbr800) turned on and worked. However, there seems to be a problem with the picture tilted/bowing/bending/or overscan at the top.

      News tickers, scoreboards, or logos at the top are either cut off or tilt a little bit. Otherwise it is not noticeable on regular viewing picture.

      It is like a convex concave thing going on. Any ideas? Was some component touched accidentally during the IC repair to cause this offset?

    487. I am very appreciative of the time and effort you’ve expended in keeping on top of this very informative tutorial and hope for some advice concerning my KV 32hs420, purchased new in 2006. It has always been intermittent in operation, always shutting down with a 7 blink error after a short period of viewing pleasure. Had a work order under warranty, but Sony kept putting me off and I wasn’t persistent enough, so it has been in my garage for 9 years and probably hasn’t been viewed 100 hrs. in that timeframe. Your many successful fixes with the 2 IC chip replacements inspired me to give it a try and was sucessfully completed, but I am still getting the 7 blink error. It operates approximately 30 minutes and goes into the 7 blink standby. I have always been able to repower it on immediately thereafter, but the same problem recurs. Any ideas on an alternative approach to this issue, as I was very confident that the chip replacement would at least give me some extended viewing pleasure and allow me a new perspective on the causation and some direction to troubleshoot a different area. I am nearly convinced that it is either a FBT issue or possibly even the CRT, though neither make much logical sense, given the amount of hours on those electrical parts. There is some discoloration of the fbt and the neck of the crt, indicative of overheating or overvoltage, but this could be due to the multiple on-off cycling I have put it through in an effort to maybe cyle it into submission. Picture and sound have always been sharp and pure, albeit very abbreviated in duration. Never has failed to power back up after going into the ‘shutdown’ mode.
      I am very handy and persistent and would like nothing more than to this machine operate as it should, but am a bit reticent about poking around with a multimeter in areas that produce in excess 35kv. I’ve taken on 220 a few times, and it wasn’t very pleasant!! I could attempt to bypass some of the protective circuitry, but my television might have a shortened life expectancy should I take that avenue of ‘repair’
      Please point me in a positive direction as I’m beginning to feel a close affinity with Sisiphus. Instead of a rock, I’m forever rolling a 200 lb crt up an endless hill. Again, many thanks for your time and effort in maintaining this website.

    488. Excellent tutorial. I just wanted to say thank you, you brought to life my Sony KV-29FX301, it was blinking 11 times the LED, and wouldn’t turn on. The error would be to the 8V board.
      The specific TV had only one MCZ3001D inside so I removed it, put the base (WITHOUT soldering the unsoldered parts) and then the MCZ. And that was it. Now it’s working perfectly. It would take about 20-40mins trying ON-OFF all the time until it would turn on.
      THANKS THANKS THANKS!!! :)

      FYI: In my TV as soon as I replaced the MCZ the led would not blink errors, however if you want to erase the errors as well you can get into the Service Mode of the TV using the combination:
      (with the TV standby)
      i+ & 5 & Vol Down & TV, and then press 80 to the remote.

    489. Our KV-34XBR960 would no longer display video and I was really dreading having to pay for a new TV, so I was really glad that I stumbled upon this article.

      I ordered the parts off of eBay for $19.56. This must be a common repair, as they sold the chips in pairs and included a pair of chip sockets. I also got a solder sucker off of eBay (Edsyn Soldapullt). I already had a soldering iron and solder.

      I only unplugged two of the cables going into the board, so I could slide the bottom tray back enough to access that back screw. I did have to first remove a smaller board on the left side of the DZ board to get to the latch on that side. Flipping up the draw bridges was a bit of a pain.

      Desoldering the chips wasn’t too hard. That solder sucker really sucked;-) However, when it came to soldering, I did have a problem with one of the chip sockets. On IC8002, the upper left pin (pin 18) would not take any solder. It looked like there was no circuit trace there, just bare circuit board. Someone had posted the link to the service manual for my TV and I checked it and found out that pin was not connected to anything. Whew! The other chip socket soldered in just fine.

      I got everything, except the back cover, in place and powered her up with fingers crossed. It seemed like forever before the video input label showed up on the screen. Success!

      Thanks Lee for posting your article and the photos. They were a tremendous help. Hopefully, we can get a few more years of life out of it before we need to buy another TV.

    490. A coworker helped me make this repair about eight months ago. Now the 6/7 blink code and shutdown has returned. Since we soldered sockets in I’m tempted to order another set of chips but I’m wondering what the likelihood of some other issue being the reason for the chip faults? I hate to give up on this brilliant HD picture.

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